neilrr010

I attempted to connect a portable jumper with a 1250A rating to the wires under the hood, but alas, it was unable to detect the battery, so it remained inactive. I even attempted to overwrite it. It would have worked if the battery terminals were connected, but I'm stuck without a master key fob and the negative terminal isn't connected.

Amazon.co.uk : car battery

Amazon.co.uk : BMW 330i

I just got my e46 330i back from the mechanic, but it was dead and I didn't have the key fob (just the valet key). The cherry on top isn't having to get into the trunk, though. The negative terminal was disconnected by my mechanic. Can I crack it somehow?

It's strange how it always starts with "Sport."

Upon starting up, my EV2 always goes into Sport Mode. Could someone please tell me if this user selected the Normal or Eco setting? According to the handbook, Normal or Eco should always be the default.

A friend requested that I keep their 2001 Camary on my property. I still haven't been able to reach him after all these years. I need to relocate it to a different part of the property, but I don't have the key. The steering wheel is locked, but I can shift into neutral. Can the steering wheel be unlocked? The wheel remains locked even after I hammered a screwdriver into the key slot; all it does is spin around. Much obliged.

The mileage stands at 109,000.

I appreciate any assistance you can provide in advance. I was travelling at approximately 60mph when the engine ceased functioning, without any commotion, sound, vibration, or odours. No excessive heat generation. Oil and water levels and status are standard. The battery was functioning properly ten minutes prior to the start. Attempting to restart it produced a sound reminiscent of a depleted battery. The AA arrived and, upon attempting to start the machine, it operated sluggishly and was consuming a substantial amount of current.The vehicle was operating smoothly without any problems previously. There is an absence of cam chain noise during cold starts and at all other times. It was proposed, and I intend to remove the serpentine belt to prevent the seizing of the alternator, AC compressor, steering pump, pulleys, and so forth. I would have anticipated some screeching or burning odours from the belt if that were true, but I am not a Mercedes expert, despite being a reasonably skilled mechanic. I would surmise the starter as the culprit; however, I find it difficult to comprehend how a malfunctioning starter could initially halt the engine, particularly since I am not well-versed in the stop-start mechanism. The stop-start feature has consistently malfunctioned in the vehicle, yet this has not troubled me. There was no power failure; I had accelerated quite vigorously, eased off to coast for a moment, and only realised the engine had ceased when I pressed the accelerator and observed no increase in RPMs. I have encountered catastrophic engine failures throughout the years, and there were no indications whatsoever of any issues. It simply ceased. I utilised my Mercedes-specific diagnostic tool, but no pertinent codes were detected. A few points concerning interaction with the instrument cluster, yet I fail to perceive the connection. No aspects pertaining to cam timing or any engine-related matters. Should anyone possessing greater firsthand experience with this have any insights or troubleshooting recommendations, I would be exceedingly appreciative.I possess general knowledge, yet lack specific information regarding this vehicle; I will detach the belt, although it appears somewhat cumbersome, so conducting other inspections may be advisable beforehand. My greatest apprehension is that the engine has become inoperative. I appreciate it.

If testers discover soot at the tailpipe, they will likely scrutinise the DPF to ensure it hasn't been altered, potentially resulting in the vehicle being prohibited from the road until the DPF is substituted!

It is much appreciated that you gave me the heads-up.

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_nkw=oil+filter&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181125&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512X597edb70b292a125c0ca0f88ee10ebfc&subId2=15

Yesterday, I changed the oil on my W203 diesel engine because it was an emergency. Though I do have a replacement filter, I was unable to install it since I was missing the tool necessary to do so. The tool will be mine tomorrow. The oil filter is conveniently located on top of the engine, towards the front, making it easy to access. Outside of the old oil filter, does anyone have any idea how much engine oil could be dripping from the engine? I have no plans to change the oil at this time because there are less than 200 miles on the new oil. Much obliged for the advice given; best regards

The paint code, rather than the name, is the better choice. To find out which license plate bears the code, consult the manual.

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To tell the truth, they don't appear to care.

I can't seem to get the module itself to show up in the scanner, and I just got my car back from the insurance company with a canbus/esp problem. Does this mean the module is dead?

Like yours, PHEV's two are in perfect alignment throughout the summer, but when the weather turns chilly, they're just a couple of miles apart at the base. Therefore, temperature affects the material they are constructed from. Negligible ones, though, can be negligible. I beheld a 22-inch bronze plate that was, in fact, shaped like a banana. Poking your fingers through the opening would be quite an adventure. Those people who were pushed out by the fuel filler aren't the same people, in my opinion.

Without one, please. It's going in the trash. I covered it with a Heatshield sunshade.

With all the options out there, it may be difficult to choose which brands are worth buying.