neilrr010

Retrieve the components and assemble them into a single unit at a reduced cost. In my perspective, this plug and play solution is a hassle-free and cost-effective option.

Pleasant

I purchased it online at a price of 60 dollars. Perhaps I will experiment with the blue thread or explore other options.

https://www.mazdapartsconnect.com/oem-parts/mazda-tow-eye-cap-kmv650a11bb

I obtained the component number from the authorised dealer. The product is the correct size, however it does not arrive with a painted finish. Below is the provided hyperlink. This is the most inexpensive I have seen.

I am now deliberating.

Uncertain, maybe. I am aware that it is fairly robust; it appeared briefly and then disappeared. Perhaps the item was taken by someone or perhaps it was accidentally damaged by a vehicle in the parking area. I am uncertain about the exact cause. Yes, I have acquired the blue Metallica paint. It will prove to be challenging. However, I must first get the necessary component.

Greetings I am interested in either acquiring the tow hook cover top or installing a tow hook at the front. Upon inspecting the merchant, I discovered that these items are rather costly, and in addition, the cover requires painting.What is the optimal choice?

I have emulated the practices of RVUSA and Aerofly by purchasing a set (right-hand drive) from AliExpress for £17.65, including of VAT and postage. I have just fitted them and found that they are rather well-fitting, although not flawless, surpassing any homemade alternatives I could have fabricated. The PVC material is of high quality, with a pleasant softness and flexibility. To secure the front and rear cup mats in place, I used a little amount of carpet tape. I had previously purchased a storage tray that is placed in the upper part of the armrest cubby cavity.

Indeed, I have also come across information on this issue on another site. Users reported experiencing early wear of the pulley, necessitating frequent replacements.

He is only interested in VRP superchargers and often expresses dissatisfaction with VRP. Therefore, it is prudent to exclude them from consideration.

Greetings, individuals. Which option is better: the Weistec Stage 3 or the PTG 4L? I have decided to enhance the performance of my automobile by installing a supercharger. I do not want to invest in a 2.3L engine and then have to spend further money on upgrades later. I will continue to use the original internal components and gearbox until I have enough funds to invest in modifications at a later time. Weistec guarantees a power output of 625 wheel horsepower when using 95 RON gasoline. Requires a refrigerated compartment in the trunk. PTG claims that their product can provide a power output of 675-700 whp while using 95 Ron fuel. They advise against using the trunk ice box. I am determined to achieve the status of having the quickest vehicle in the nation. Presently, there is only one C63 equipped with the Weistec stage 2 upgrade, which claims to generate 700 horsepower. However, I am uncertain about the accuracy of these figures. In the future, I plan to do modifications such as gearbox upgrades, piston and rod replacements, and head porting.I would want to make a single investment and maximise my net HP from the kit.My vehicle is a 2013 P31 model with a mileage of 28,000 km. It is equipped with headers, a complete exhaust system, a limited-slip differential (LSD), a Weistec gearbox pan, a catch can and a larger oil cooler. In terms of pricing, both Weistec and PTG currently offer similar prices. However, Weistec has announced that they will be providing discounts during the forthcoming Black Friday sales. On the other hand, PTG has said that they will not be offering any discounts on their supercharger kit.Is it advisable to invest in PTG or would it be more prudent to wait for a sale and purchase Weistec? Individuals who have installed these kits are invited to participate and share their own experiences, including any encountered complications. Thank you very much.

Here is the situation in California. If you choose not to proceed with the emissions update, the open emissions recall will be visible when you need to renew your registration with the DMV. This recall will be based on your vehicle identification number (VIN), and the DMV will not renew your registration until you have the update performed by Audi. Therefore, you are in a difficult situation. I will not allow Audi to do the tune-up and observe if the DMV denies the renewal. Subsequently, I will complete the task, get a renewal, and proceed to apply an aftermarket tune and reflash whenever I need a smog certification.

I have just got a recall notice from Audi about the emissions of my ECM and TCM modules. It is indicated that in sports mode, the emissions from the tailpipe may above the limits set by the EPA. In addition, they suggest that OBD error codes may persist and prevent the car from passing emissions testing. The notification further cautions that if the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) or Gearbox Control Unit (TCU) of your Audi has been modified or enhanced with aftermarket tuning or chipping, Audi will impose a fee for restoring it to its original factory settings. I'm interested to know whether a cat back exhaust system is classified as a modification.

Thank you, norbury.brook, for providing this comprehensive summary. Many of the suggestions you are making are above my technical expertise, but they do provide me with some guidance to share with my garage as a potential problem. I may propose something for them to examine, therefore creating a sense of obligation for them to do so. I have a high level of satisfaction with my 350d 212 and am willing to invest in maintaining it in excellent shape. However, I am concerned about the gearbox difficulties, since many garages are hesitant to address this issue. Thank you for dedicating your time to share.

Thank you, norbury.brook. I presume that the item in question is the gearbox cooler. I am uncertain of the location, but it may be a compelling choice to contemplate, given the noise only manifests after the vehicle has been in operation for around one hour.

I have not yet attempted it. Excellent suggestion. I will attempt it next time it is suitable.

Thank you...the phenomenon arises while accelerating in D1 without applying any brakes. The brakes seem to be less challenging than the gearbox problem.

Certainly. The sound is only perceptible when transitioning from N to D or R. When you apply pressure to the brakes, the action occurs and persists even after you remove them. It seems to cease at velocities beyond 10mph (or maybe other sounds overpower it). It begins only after the vehicles have been in operation for around one hour, and only after you have interacted with N. If you come to a complete stop, leave it in D (such as a traffic signal) and immediately begin moving forward, it will not occur. A witness characterises the sound as like the presence of a frog in the engine compartment, emitting croaks at regular intervals. Does not seem to be related to suspension or power steering, since it manifests while the vehicle is stationary.

Greetings, I have previously mentioned an atypical noise emanating from my gearbox when it is in either D1 or R gears. When choosing any option after P, I experience a creaking sound emanating from the front right corner of the vehicle. However, this occurrence is limited to the first hour of the car's operation. In the event of a roll to a halt at D1, no anomalous noise is observed. The occurrence of this phenomenon is contingent upon transitioning from N to D. The Mercedes dealership expresses uncertainty on this matter, although having seen the auditory phenomenon. The retired Range Rover mechanic, who is my neighbour, proposes the presence of an internal valve or pump inside the automotive enclosure. Has anybody encountered a similar problem? Do the car box have such valves?

I cannot provide feedback on the performance of the BV since I have never had one. However, if given the opportunity, I would choose one equipped with a rear view camera! 😉

I too own a CLK vehicle, however, I am encountering difficulty in locating a non-live fuse inside the fuse box situated next to the steering wheel. It is hypothesised that the camera deactivates its wifi functionality upon connection to the b wire in order to save battery. I am uncertain about the appropriate course of action due to the absence of a low voltage protection mechanism, since I now lack the necessary time to address this issue.

The ambient temperature outside - I find myself repeatedly searching for this information, just to realise that it is not displayed in any available sources. Is it possible to do this task with an iCarsoft unit, or is it just achievable via the STAR job? Thank you.

I understand now; I had not considered that aspect. Thank you for bringing it to my attention.