neilrr010

I first saw this discussion and resolved against purchasing the automobile; however, my wife had other intentions, amusingly enough. She purchased it nonetheless. Issues that are arising and shocking her within only 2500 miles were previously known to be possible problems. The knowledge from this site has prevented me from being too agitated when issues arise, since I anticipated their occurrence rather than being completely caught off guard. The early morning frost disabling all safety systems owing to an obstructed front camera was unexpected; nevertheless, it is the model's first winter, thus few individuals have encountered this issue. We are so dissatisfied that we are considering disposing of it after only two months. Mazda advised us to just park it in our garage to prevent that issue, although they were unwilling to finance the construction of a garage, since I currently do not own one.

Is this a revised edition, as I had seen a similar one? However, it only displays the 2014 listing for the 2.4 model, not the 2.0, and includes an AGM battery.

I appreciate this knowledge. I am perplexed as to why the dealer information indicates this, whereas other applications (O'Reilly's, AutoZone, and even AAA) assert that it should have an AGM.

The battery fits appropriately on the battery tray. The issue is that the positive terminal is encased in a box that also contains the associated fuse. When attempting to connect the positive terminal to the positive battery post, it fails to fit due to the casing surrounding the positive terminal. Although removing the casing would allow a proper connection, it is not feasible to do so, as the casing also encases the fuse and is securely attached. I prefer not to modify any components. It formerly included a 124R. However, based on my research, it seems that it requires an AGM. All h6 AGM batteries have identical specifications. The catalogues may be incorrect on the required battery type, suggesting it may be a 124R, or the H6AGM may possess a unique design from the dealer. You may only purchase from them, which I refuse to do at dealer prices.

I own a 2014 Sonata with a 2.0 engine. Request for h6 AGM battery. I have attempted to use many branded batteries with the same part number, however the positive terminal is incompatible owing to the fuse box linked to it. The 2013 model year requires a 124R battery, which is compatible with my vehicle. However, mine has ceased functioning after two months without any external reason. I had it refilled and evaluated, and it is functioning well. My web research indicates that this automobile is compatible only with an AGM battery, although I am uncertain whether they would fit. Any assistance or recommendations would be very appreciated.

Did the replacement of the Air Mass Sensor resolve the issue?

I recommend doing an initial inspection to ensure that all brake pads are in excellent condition and not too worn. Inspect the master and slave cylinder for any signs of leakage and ensure that the brakes are correctly bled, following the specific process outlined by BMW. Have you conducted a diagnostic scan to check for any fault codes shown on the dashboard?

There is no significant difference - it remains mostly unchanged. At higher speeds, the difference may be less obvious, perhaps due to the presence of additional road and wind noise.

For W205 owners: Have any of you experienced any rattling noises coming from the back, similar to the one below? The movie clearly captures the sound of the rattling, which is most pronounced between 2-6s, then again between 8-12s, and finally around 16 and 22s, as I am driving on a local road. The mobile phone holder emits a little noise, but the predominant sound is the noise itself. https://www.formesyn.com/c63/C63-W205-Rear-Rattle-1.m4v The car has been sent to Mercedes, where two new rear shocks were installed to replace a blown one that might have been causing banging sounds. Additionally, a local independent mechanic attempted to improve the fit of the boot lid, while Mercedes addressed some panels under the back seats. However, these efforts did not resolve the issue. In addition to removing the plastic covers from the lower suspension arms, I attempted to address the issue, but unfortunately, it did not provide any positive results. I have elevated it using jacks and thoroughly inspected it, but I did not see any apparent issues. The material seems to be a combination of plastic and metal, particularly evident when it produces vibrations when traversing bumps. Evidently, all the components located under the vehicle, including drop links, are in satisfactory condition. I have taken the necessary steps to remove all items from the trunk. Are there any well recognised locations to inspect?

And to place your fuses in the appropriate positions.

Retrieve the components and assemble them into a single unit at a reduced cost. In my perspective, this plug and play solution is a hassle-free and cost-effective option.

Pleasant

I purchased it online at a price of 60 dollars. Perhaps I will experiment with the blue thread or explore other options.

https://www.mazdapartsconnect.com/oem-parts/mazda-tow-eye-cap-kmv650a11bb

I obtained the component number from the authorised dealer. The product is the correct size, however it does not arrive with a painted finish. Below is the provided hyperlink. This is the most inexpensive I have seen.

I am now deliberating.

Uncertain, maybe. I am aware that it is fairly robust; it appeared briefly and then disappeared. Perhaps the item was taken by someone or perhaps it was accidentally damaged by a vehicle in the parking area. I am uncertain about the exact cause. Yes, I have acquired the blue Metallica paint. It will prove to be challenging. However, I must first get the necessary component.

Greetings I am interested in either acquiring the tow hook cover top or installing a tow hook at the front. Upon inspecting the merchant, I discovered that these items are rather costly, and in addition, the cover requires painting.What is the optimal choice?

I have emulated the practices of RVUSA and Aerofly by purchasing a set (right-hand drive) from AliExpress for £17.65, including of VAT and postage. I have just fitted them and found that they are rather well-fitting, although not flawless, surpassing any homemade alternatives I could have fabricated. The PVC material is of high quality, with a pleasant softness and flexibility. To secure the front and rear cup mats in place, I used a little amount of carpet tape. I had previously purchased a storage tray that is placed in the upper part of the armrest cubby cavity.

Indeed, I have also come across information on this issue on another site. Users reported experiencing early wear of the pulley, necessitating frequent replacements.

He is only interested in VRP superchargers and often expresses dissatisfaction with VRP. Therefore, it is prudent to exclude them from consideration.

Greetings, individuals. Which option is better: the Weistec Stage 3 or the PTG 4L? I have decided to enhance the performance of my automobile by installing a supercharger. I do not want to invest in a 2.3L engine and then have to spend further money on upgrades later. I will continue to use the original internal components and gearbox until I have enough funds to invest in modifications at a later time. Weistec guarantees a power output of 625 wheel horsepower when using 95 RON gasoline. Requires a refrigerated compartment in the trunk. PTG claims that their product can provide a power output of 675-700 whp while using 95 Ron fuel. They advise against using the trunk ice box. I am determined to achieve the status of having the quickest vehicle in the nation. Presently, there is only one C63 equipped with the Weistec stage 2 upgrade, which claims to generate 700 horsepower. However, I am uncertain about the accuracy of these figures. In the future, I plan to do modifications such as gearbox upgrades, piston and rod replacements, and head porting.I would want to make a single investment and maximise my net HP from the kit.My vehicle is a 2013 P31 model with a mileage of 28,000 km. It is equipped with headers, a complete exhaust system, a limited-slip differential (LSD), a Weistec gearbox pan, a catch can and a larger oil cooler. In terms of pricing, both Weistec and PTG currently offer similar prices. However, Weistec has announced that they will be providing discounts during the forthcoming Black Friday sales. On the other hand, PTG has said that they will not be offering any discounts on their supercharger kit.Is it advisable to invest in PTG or would it be more prudent to wait for a sale and purchase Weistec? Individuals who have installed these kits are invited to participate and share their own experiences, including any encountered complications. Thank you very much.

Here is the situation in California. If you choose not to proceed with the emissions update, the open emissions recall will be visible when you need to renew your registration with the DMV. This recall will be based on your vehicle identification number (VIN), and the DMV will not renew your registration until you have the update performed by Audi. Therefore, you are in a difficult situation. I will not allow Audi to do the tune-up and observe if the DMV denies the renewal. Subsequently, I will complete the task, get a renewal, and proceed to apply an aftermarket tune and reflash whenever I need a smog certification.

I have just got a recall notice from Audi about the emissions of my ECM and TCM modules. It is indicated that in sports mode, the emissions from the tailpipe may above the limits set by the EPA. In addition, they suggest that OBD error codes may persist and prevent the car from passing emissions testing. The notification further cautions that if the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) or Gearbox Control Unit (TCU) of your Audi has been modified or enhanced with aftermarket tuning or chipping, Audi will impose a fee for restoring it to its original factory settings. I'm interested to know whether a cat back exhaust system is classified as a modification.

Thank you, norbury.brook, for providing this comprehensive summary. Many of the suggestions you are making are above my technical expertise, but they do provide me with some guidance to share with my garage as a potential problem. I may propose something for them to examine, therefore creating a sense of obligation for them to do so. I have a high level of satisfaction with my 350d 212 and am willing to invest in maintaining it in excellent shape. However, I am concerned about the gearbox difficulties, since many garages are hesitant to address this issue. Thank you for dedicating your time to share.