Gianni682

I am purchasing a new CX-90 Turbo S Premium Plus on Friday at my local dealership. Do you have any suggestions for acquiring it at the lowest feasible cost? Or at the at least, avoid being exploited? They are offering me a discount of $3,000 off the list price, which I assume is the current norm for Mazda. Are they really steadfast about the price? Are there other benefits I should advocate for? I am presenting a prospective trade-in, but I am willing to sell it independently. Any guidance would be welcomed!

If the vehicle is equipped with Stop/Start technology, it must utilise an AGM battery. The battery should be labelled for verification purposes.

Thank you for your response. I am really sorry to learn that your father succumbed to dementia; it is a dreadful affliction that profoundly affects not just the individual but also has a significant and enduring influence on those who remain. An air leak is a compelling proposition. Thank you for that.

I much appreciate the idea. That should have been considered. Completed as required. Here is the link:

My father had a 530i with a 53 registration plate. Regrettably, he died two years ago, and due to dementia, ceased driving around 18 months before to his passing. For several reasons, his automobile has been idle in his garage since that time. However, I have now focused on it, aiming to initiate progress and transfer it. The vehicle starts and operates smoothly when the engine reaches around 1500-2000 rpm. However, if I release the accelerator and allow the engine to idle, it exhibits significant instability at 750 rpm, fluctuating in speed many times before stalling. When I gradually reduce the throttle till reaching idle, the engine remains somewhat unstable, exhibiting minor fluctuations in power, however it does not stall. I have refuelled it, replaced the coolant, and installed a new battery. Do you have any hypotheses or recommendations on the situation? I own a video of it, but I am uncertain whether I may upload it here. I will attempt it. Thank you for your assistance.

I lack sufficient space in my vehicle to accommodate the 200 CDs included on the little USB stick.

The brushes in the starting motor may be completely worn if it is the original component. My M47 failed to start one day after returning from a store. Disassembled the starter, leaving just the braided brush wires. No previous notice of non-initiation. Had I attended to it a little sooner, replacement brushes would have sufficed; but, the wires had somewhat damaged the commutator, necessitating the complete replacement of the starter with a new Bosch unit, acquired at an excellent price from an eBay vendor. When the AA arrived to aid with my inability to start the vehicle, I had difficulties in bump-starting my car using a tow, as I pressed the clutch and repeatedly activated the start button in an attempt to ignite the engine. Unless I was mistaken, the vehicle would not initiate merely by towing, compressing the clutch, pushing the start button, and thereafter releasing the clutch, if you get my meaning.

Hello everyone, I own a Mercedes E350 Bluetec. I replaced the fuel pump and diesel filter, but the engine would not start; it cranks but does not ignite. The gasoline line has been unplugged at the filter, and petrol is trickling out upon ignition; however, it ceases to flow when the engine is cranked. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

This vehicle is from the year 2010.

Is it a legitimate coil or a counterfeit? If it is legitimate, then it is undoubtedly a favourable alternative.

I seek assistance from someone. I want to change the ignition coils on my 318i E90 N43. The OEM number is 12137559842, and I am enquiring if the below component would be acceptable: 413110180 from Euro Car Parts. Euro Car Parts online indicates compatibility while inputting the vehicle registration; yet, the component seems rather dissimilar to the original. Does anybody possess any counsel? Thank you in advance!

If the OP's grievance like mine, it is not only a question of activating the air conditioning to mitigate the condensation on the windscreen. As previously stated, if the circumstances are optimal (using the car during a somewhat warm evening with the air conditioning on, accompanied by rain or high humidity, followed by allowing it to remain stationary overnight with a significant decrease in temperature), condensation will form on the windscreen. The discussion is to water, not fog, affecting a region from the dashboard to about 8 inches above the defroster outlet and extending laterally to a similar width. When one drags their finger across the damp region, water begins to trickle towards the dashboard. This phenomenon occurs seldom and under certain circumstances; yet, it is unsettling to see real water accumulating on the windscreen. I would anticipate fog, but not concentrated moisture. At times, the situation has deteriorated to the extent that I have had to storing a microfiber towel in the vehicle to dry it, enabling the defroster to function well.

Version 23 of North America manufactured in Mexico. On some days, I experience genuine condensation, beyond simply fog, on the inside front windscreen. To activate mine, the preceding day must have seen moderate temperatures accompanied by either precipitation or elevated humidity. Subsequently, there must have been a substantial decline in temperature and humidity overnight. The next morning, the area around the defrost air vents on the front windscreen is entirely damp. The height of the space is about 8 inches, commencing at the base of the windscreen. No degree of defrosting can eradicate this issue, and I consistently have a microfiber cloth in the truck for such situations. Irksome? Fortunately, the optimal combination of humidity and temperature in my locale is seldom.

I hope and pray that her troubles are remedied. I hardly use my radio

I have been informed that using silicone caulking in the mounting holes during installation is advisable. Prevents the ingress of moisture and salt.

At the age of 14, I removed one and connected it to a maintenance charger. A few months later, my sister borrowed it to test it out as her own had stopped working. The decal remained on her vehicle for a period of one to two years until she sold it, hence the exact duration of its longevity is unknown.

Prioritise following another_clean_sheet's instructions before purchasing a new battery. It is not uncommon for a 12-year-old automobile to still retain its original battery. If the battery in question is manufactured by BMW, it should possess a date code. The most convenient method I have discovered to ascertain the code is to capture a photograph of the battery and then magnify the image. The indicator is located at the highest point of the negative battery terminal. It will be represented as follows: a numerical representation of the week (40) and year (2017), with two numerals stacked vertically. The numbers are 40 and 17.

You have not provided information on the make and model of the automobile, as well as its manufacturing year. Have you performed a code scan? The issue might also be attributed to a deteriorating battery or a faulty grounding connection.

Research the Technical Service Bulletin (TSB). Although I do not own a Plug-in Hybrid Electric Vehicle (PHEV), I recall seeing a similar set of symptoms that could be relevant to your situation. It was a brief and urgent announcement.

Your description seems to be accurate. The primary purpose of sport mode is to enable greater engine revolutions, resulting in enhanced torque and power in comparison to driving mode. The engine revolutions need to decrease more in order to match the new gear, thus the Gearbox Control Unit (TCU) permits a little increase in jerkiness to prevent any delays in the gear changes.

I am sceptical that installing a JB4 will have a significant impact on the performance of your normally aspirated 2.5 engine. Maybe only a few HP. It would be more advantageous to just shed 25 pounds. 😉

These engines are renowned for carbon accumulation, which, if left uncleaned, may certainly lead to issues. Begin by taking one step at a time and have the engine undergo carbon cleaning as a first step. Temporarily refrain from manipulating the sensor and avoid making many modifications simultaneously without doing proper testing.

Understood. I acknowledge that the Snap-on tool is of high quality, however it is possible that the VCDS offers more advanced features.

What is the distance in miles? Can you provide information about the service history? What tools or methods did you use for the required scan? VCDS Ross Tech is a software program.