WolfieBase

Thank you everyone, I have decided to proceed with the replacement. Last year, I changed the gearbox mounts. I should have also addressed the engine mounts at that time.

The engine remains installed on its original mounts, while the car's mileage stands at slightly under 92,000 kilometres. There are no apparent leaks when seen from above. The movement of the driver side is somewhat greater than that of the opposite side. Both parties are likely in the process of being phased out. I am contemplating replacing them with identical items, without any enhancements.

https://cj.dotomi.com/links-t/100046867/type/dlg/sid/2518X1570512X60aa0cc25190962328fe7b7e582e0ade/https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/993679092

Greetings, everybody. Is this level of play considered acceptable?

To clarify the situation, I attempted to install my neighbor's Gen 4 parcel shelf (tonneau cover?) into my Gen 5 vehicle this morning. However, it is not compatible and would not fit. Even if it did fit, the connecting mechanism is different, rendering it non-functional. Attempting to install a Gen 5 parcel shelf inside a Gen 4 will also be unsuccessful.

According to what I was informed, he conducted a compression test and found that the level of compression is higher than anticipated. However, if that is the problem, shouldn't starting the engine be problematic regardless of whether it is warm or somewhat cold?

Greetings, gentlemen. I own a BMW 320d e90 2006 model and around 7 months ago, I began encountering difficulties with starting the engine. Initially, I believed that the winter season and the occurrence of glow plug faults on the OBD2 system were related, therefore I decided to do the following action: Four glow plugs and a glow plug relay. In addition, I replaced the battery with a Monbat AGM 100ah, since the prior one was a non-AGM battery of poor quality. The problem had previously been resolved, but it has again reappeared. I suspected that the Starter would be the cause this time, so I thoroughly fixed it. However, this did not resolve the issue. I also consulted a professional who verified that there are no problems with the key, and I am not seeing any key errors on the dashboard. I am entering the key and activating the START/STOP button to initiate the functioning of all systems (without starting the engine yet). After a brief 10-second delay, I engage the clutch pedal and activate the START/STOP button. When the temperature is about 7-10 degrees Celsius, the engine exhibits a beginning behaviour where it cranks for around 1-3 seconds before abruptly halting, indicating a loss of power. In addition, when the temperature is rather chilly, rather than briefly engaging the crank and experiencing a loss of power, the engine may sustain cranking for an extended duration, and I deliberately intervene to stop it. If the temperature outdoors exceeds 20 degrees Celsius, the device will begin without encountering any problems, based on current observations. If I omit the first push of the START/STOP button to initiate all systems and promptly engage the clutch to start the engine, there are three possible outcomes: the engine may crank for a little period and then lose power, it may continue cranking until it stops, or it may start without any apparent difficulty. Irrespective of the weather conditions or temperature, there are no regulations in place. (Additional information that may be helpful) Approximately two months ago, I brought my vehicle to the automotive repair shop for routine maintenance, including an oil change and filter replacement. During this visit, the mechanic informed me that there is a problem with the engine. The engine problem lies in the Piston Rings, which need replacement. As a result, there is excessive pressure in the carter, and the engine is using more oil than anticipated. Prior to receiving this information, the occurrence of the engine starting problem was limited to a single instance. I am uncertain about the whole accuracy of this information, since I want to verify it with a more dependable specialist. However, if it is really accurate, I shall proceed with the task of reconstructing the engine. Perhaps these two things are intricately linked? If not, what may be a potential problem?

I lack familiarity with the item mentioned, but I am wary about Ebay. This is one that has captured my attention. A complete titanium construction with carbon fibre tips is available for purchase at a price of $5,000. Alternatively, stainless steel is available for a price of $4,000. It is likely that contacting them directly and negotiating might result in obtaining a more favourable pricing. https://valvetronic.com/products/bmw-f10-m5-valved-exhaust?_pos=1&_sid=9cdcd3707&_ss=r

I am eager to do a trial of them. I am now located in Toronto, Canada.

I would be interested if the location were inside the Bay Area, California.

Undoubtedly, a neighbouring 11-year-old kid, upon returning home from school, stopped still with astonishment, his mouth agape in wonderment. 😲

After owning the vehicle for a week, I finally mustered enough bravery to test out the remote parking device. I am unsure of the reason, but it caused me to burst into uncontrollable laughing. It began with a wide smile and escalated from there with great intensity. 😂 😂 😂 Although I may never have a practical need for it, seeing the motion of the object moving back and forth without my presence evoked a sense of wonder in the little child.

What are your thoughts on the WeatherTech bump topper?

I am rather concerned about it. I am not in a hurry, thus I am willing to wait for the emergence of accessible alternatives.

Yes, I saw it, but it is related to carbon. There are a few more second-hand ones, but they seemed to be in a similarly poor condition in their own unique manner.

Should I just communicate with an upholstery shop? I would choose anything that closely resembles or corresponds to the desired criteria. I would also not exclude the possibility of converting additional components into leather in order to provide a cohesive appearance.

Thank you for the offer, but I regretfully decline.

I accidentally damaged my ashtray cover while searching for a source of noise. Regrettably, I made a foolish mistake by neglecting to apply tape to the top of it when removing it, resulting in a few noticeable gouges. I intended to purchase a replacement on eBay, but unfortunately, the item has been discontinued. Moreover, the few sellers that advertised the item were unable to provide it as they did not have it available in their inventory. Currently, I own these blemishes, yet I am unable to simply get a substitute. It seems that I can still get a whole ashtray assembly, but it is priced at over $600, which is far more than the expected cost of a $75 replacement. Currently, I am observing a few alternatives. Initially, allocate the $600 only towards the purchase of a new ashtray. Although I am not enthusiastic about the notion, it is being considered as an option. I could choose for a carbon fibre substitute, however I have reservations about its compatibility with the rest of the centre console. Although I own the carbon interior trim, I am not interested in acquiring a whole carbon centre console. However, I may consider purchasing a few more parts to enhance the overall appearance and achieve a more seamless fit. I also saw big_tasty and his retrim and pondered the feasibility of such an endeavour. Is it worthwhile? What is the method to do that? I am open to suggestions on the next course of action. Additionally, I am open to acquiring the artwork in excellent condition from anybody. Thank you for any assistance. Attached is a picture illustrating the extent of the damage.

It is worth mentioning that this vehicle previously had an aftermarket alarm installed, which was uninstalled prior to my ownership.

@BENZE220AMG Thank you. I have been informed that there is a possibility of circuit board failure, thus I have obtained an additional one as a contingency measure. The cable you mentioned, which seems brown or red, is really black and red. I have not yet followed its path, but according to the schematics, it is connected to the tail lights. Tomorrow, I will inspect the tail lights, which function well when the lights are off but have not been tested with them on.

Thank you both. Yes, there were exposed brown ground lines below. I am curious whether the previous owner had this issue and it has already been resolved. Meanwhile, I have purchased an additional cluster from Rob P as a backup in case the circuit board is the cause of the malfunction. I really dislike electrical devices.

The car in question is a 1985 W123 300TD. Any assistance would be much appreciated.

Good evening everyone... Progress is being made gradually, but a new challenge has arisen. When I purchased the automobile, the previous owner had tampered with several of the ground cables under the dashboard. He was unable to recall the reason. I had around three components that were visible, indicating that none of the indicators on the automobile were functioning. Since I am not knowledgeable about electrical systems, I hired an individual who successfully restored the functionality of the electrics by reestablishing the connections. Everything was satisfactory, with all indicators functioning properly. While preparing for the Ministry of Transport (MOT) test, I activated the side lights, causing the two green indicator lights to illuminate with a dull intensity. I have tested the indicators and they continue to function well, albeit they now provide a visually impressive display. I am experiencing a complete absence of dashboard illumination. Consulted with an electrician who believes that the issue may be related to a grounding fault or maybe inside the wiring of the instrument panel. I have acquired a substitute as a precautionary measure. Additionally, I have seen an exposed black/red wire at that location, the purpose of which I am uncertain. The electrician's assistance was not very helpful, to be honest, which is disappointing considering the amount he cost me! I have included a YouTube video that shows everything except for the part when I use the rheostat.

I attempted ticket splitting and it resulted in a little cost reduction. The maximum fare I could get on Trainline was somewhat around £200, however, the outbound portion did not start until almost 11 o'clock. Frankly, the automobile would only be appealing to me if it were much cheaper than the expenses of fuel and parking. Even if I were to get a railcard, I would still choose for the car.