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Recommendations for upgrading the B8 A5 suspension


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Greetings, everyone.
I am now in the last stage of enhancing the suspension of my 2010 B8 A5 quattro. I am seeking ideas from anybody who has experience with this particular vehicle. I acknowledge its age, which implies that it has undergone several test trials.

I am seeking to enhance the suspension's rigidity and reduce the occurrence of understeer in this weighty vehicle. At elevated velocities, the front of the vehicle exhibits a sensation of levitation, and during high-speed turns, the traction control system remains engaged.

Up to this point, I have installed Billstein lowering shocks and struts to replace and reduce the height of my vehicle. Additionally, I have equipped my S4 19 inch wheels with 034 control arm kits, H&R lowering springs, spacers, a stage II turbo and an IE inner cooler.

Has anybody achieved optimal results with either the 034 or the H&R sway bar kits? What are your thoughts on the Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) S4 sway bar kit? Once again, I am seeking a much firmer suspension for improved road handling at high velocities.

I eagerly anticipate any forthcoming responses....
(I will soon update my profile with fresh photographs.) Thank you.

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What kind of tires are you currently using and what is their age? In my opinion, by asking me, you would get a marginal improvement in handling, but at the cost of completely sacrificing comfort, without ever resolving the issue of understeer.

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I have just changed the tires within the last 6 months. I installed the Sumitomo ZIII tires for street racing.

Indeed, I am endeavouring to enhance the manoeuvrability by using larger or alternative sway bars in addition to the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) ones. The vehicle is undoubtedly more weighty than my B5 A4 was, but, by incorporating some more rigid elements and taking use of the quattro system, I anticipate addressing the problem of understeer.

My first inquiry is if anybody is replacing the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) sway bars, and if so, with what alternatives. I am contemplating the installation of the H&R front and rear kit, but, I have also come across the Audi S4 setup. This is the reason why I have sought assistance from this community. I am certain that there is already an individual who has successfully resolved the problem of understeer or the "floating front end" on this particular platform.

Thank you everyone.

 

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I recommend starting by experimenting with high-quality tires such as Michelin PS4 or Pirelli P-Zero. Since you have already upgraded the shocks and dampers, I do not anticipate any significant improvements in performance by installing improved sway bars for road usage.

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You possess a document with the reference code A5 - B8 - 2010.
I find it difficult to comprehend how the automobile may exhibit both floating and understeer simultaneously. This suggests a potential issue with the alignment of the vehicle.
Perhaps a trivial inquiry, but can you confirm that you do own a vehicle equipped with the quattro drivetrain?

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The sensation of floating might also be attributed to the deterioration of bushes, tie rods, or the steering rack. The occurrence of sliding and triggered traction control is most often attributable to the condition of the tires or the tire pressure.

I just substituted the Goodyear tires on my wife's Mini Cooper S with new Conti's, and it has significantly improved the performance. The Goodyear tires exhibited a lack of traction in the front, resulting in a tendency to understeer and experience wheel spin in 2nd and 3rd gears.

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It is well known that each automobile tends to favour a certain kind of X tires, making it impossible to find a universal solution. Each individual has their own driving style, which means that although I may have a preference for Bridgestone tires, you could prefer Pirellis for the identical automobile. I strongly encourage you to make an effort to experience it yourself and form your own opinion.

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Typically, when I use my automobile, I drive for over twenty minutes with little idle time. On average, I cover around 20,000 miles every year, and it was only in the previous year that I began doing more journeys that exceed 300 miles in each direction. This implies that the battery's level of charge often remains rather high, and there have only been a few occasions when I did not use it enough to need overnight charging with my smart-charger. Below is the battery test I conducted on it in late June. When examining this, one of the crucial metrics to consider is the SOH (state of health). The health evaluation of the battery at 87% indicates that there is a certain degree of deterioration in the plate and electrolyte, resulting in the battery being effectively "13% smaller" than its original capacity. Although the battery does not undergo a physical change in size, a portion of it ceases to contribute to power production. A 13% loss after three years is commendable. Once the state of health (SOH) of the battery reaches 70%, indicating a 30% loss, it will be nearing the end of its usable lifespan for me, but still seeming to function well for other users.

The CCA (Cold Crank Amperage) is another parameter that garners significant attention from everyone. The original battery has a Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) rating of 520, and it is essential for the user to input this value accurately in order for the instrument to provide accurate results. The user must also determine the battery type, and for my North American car, the original equipment (O.E.) battery is an Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) battery. Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) As the battery ages and undergoes natural degradation, it is logical that the energy output of the battery decreases. The CCA of my battery was measured at 483, indicating a loss of 37 Amps. However, what is the true significance of that? It signifies that the battery has the capacity to produce that amount of energy for a duration of thirty seconds at a temperature of 0 degrees Fahrenheit (-17 degrees Celsius). Previously, when assessing a battery using the carbon pile load tester, we would extract 50% of the Cold Cranking Amps (CCA), which in this instance amounts to 260 Amps, for a duration of fifteen seconds. Subsequently, we would allow the battery to regain its strength, typically taking around thirty seconds, before subjecting it to another fifteen-second load. At the conclusion of the test, we would record the voltage of the battery just prior to terminating the assessment. Subsequently, based on the battery's temperature, we would consult a chart and ascertain the battery's state. Subsequently, it became imperative to replenish the battery by restoring all of the expended energy. Modern battery testers use a distinct method whereby they rapidly activate and deactivate a load, monitoring the subsequent change in battery voltage, and using sophisticated mathematical calculations to provide the final result. It provides us with a single piece of information that was previously unattainable, which is the internal resistance of the battery. The original equipment (O.E.) battery is in great condition, with a resistance of 5.95 milliohms (0.00597 ohms), which takes into account the battery cable clamps.

I will include an additional examination. The tractor in question is a John Deere 1025 model, which has reached the age of five years. Ensure that you have a printed report when you have your battery checked, and thereafter post it to the group. This would provide an opportunity for individuals to assess the rate at which their own battery is deteriorating in comparison to others.

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