Options for R56 gaskets

[MDMH757]

The story of how I acquired my Mini is rather intriguing; my instructor had it for hardly a few weeks before experiencing a blown head gasket, resulting in the engine being contaminated with milky oil. 😢 He said that if I towed it from his location and repaired it, I could own it. I have always desired one, and I am eager to get her restored. Let us proceed to the matter at hand.

It is a 2009 R56 basic model, non-turbo, N12 engine with 95,000 kilometres. I removed the cylinder head, cleaned the milky oil residue, and am preparing to purchase a fresh head gasket and head bolts. I will acquire a new intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, solenoids, thermostat gasket, timing belt with guides, bolts, tensioner, and sprocket. I am willing to invest a little amount in replacing some components if it enhances the motor's durability and minimises future maintenance efforts.

Do you have recommendations for further components that I should consider replacing? What are some credible websites? I have been examining ECS tuning, which offers both OEM and aftermarket components; RockAuto has many products available for Minis.

Regarding the head gasket issue, some have advised me to go for an OEM head gasket repair. Given that Minis are infamous for head gasket problems, should I go for OEM parts? Has Mini conducted several changes on it? I have researched the Fel-Pro Permatorque, which is said to perform well on automobiles with minor defects. I believed it would be more effective because I am not achieving a flawless finish on the head resurfacing. The head is aligned and exhibits no distortion. Has anybody used Fel-Pro, and what was their experience? What are the further evaluations about head gaskets?

[norbury.brook]

Install piston rings, replace valve seals, and lap the valves. Contemplate replacing the oil pump drive chain concurrently. The cost of doing this maintenance will not decrease, especially when the components are already disassembled, since these elements are crucial for a N12 to achieve a further 75,000 to 100,000 miles with little complications.

BMW specified a low friction ring set and ultimately produced an unusual segmented oil control ring. It excessively bypasses oil, damaging valves, carbonising ports, and destroying catalytic converters. To ensure longevity, refine the bores and install a set of traditional three-piece rings.

These engines operate at elevated temperatures. And I mean very hot. 105 degrees Celsius is the standard operating temperature. They do it for emissions and miles per gallon. However, it causes the valve seals to harden prematurely, necessitating their replacement everytime the engine is disassembled.

The increased thermal output necessitates that your cooling system operates at full capacity consistently. Replace any accessible components of the cooling system.
The ACC drive is unique and has its own complications. I replaced all components except the alternator pulley. WP, WP rubberised pulley, tensioner/jockey wheel, and belt. It is worthwhile since re-entering the engine area is quite cumbersome due to its confined space.

At a minimum, secure that core plug inside the timing chain tunnel.

The N12 is equipped with a timing chain rather of a belt. There are two Vano sprockets at the end of each camshaft. They must be replaced with the timing chain gear; otherwise, they will accelerate the wear of the new chain. Utilise only name brand components such as OEM, FAI, or Febi. The timing chain mechanism is inherently flawed; it is not advisable to economise by using inferior components.

[MDMH757]

Apologies, I intended to refer to the timing chain; I was aware of it. Thank you for the guidance on other locations and resources.

Some of you may disapprove of this; thank you for sharing your discussion on your ruptured core plug. Upon removing the head, I saw the clog situated in the timing chain chamber and speculated that I may have dislodged something during the removal process, but I was uncertain of its nature due to my limited expertise. Instead of a blown gasket, the issue was caused by the plug! The individual from whom I acquired it has considerable mechanical expertise. While travelling on the interstate, the vehicle displayed a 'low coolant' warning, subsequently resulting in a loss of power. Promptly manoeuvred it to the roadside and saw no signs of overheating on the head. He removed the cover and assumed it was the head, as most would likely do. He refrained from driving it again, unwilling to risk anything more.

I am reflecting on my actions and reconsidering my next steps. My subsequent inquiry is how you managed to insert that individual there? Did you ultimately build your own jig to reinsert it?

[MDMH757]

I have searched thoroughly and have been unable to locate any. I reside in the United States.

[norbury.brook]

I imported it from the UK.

I am in Canada, and there are no sources available here either. It is a European phenomenon.

[norbury.brook]

Refer to my linked topic for the replacement of the core plug.

Popped core plugs in that location on N12 vehicles is not an unusual occurrence.

Failed head gaskets are uncommon, however possible.

[vitessear3]

In addition to the comprehensive documentation, I recommend using authentic BMW rectangular rings (gaskets) that are positioned at the ends of the camshafts throughout the process.

[MDMH757]

Thank you, everyone!

[MotoGravity]

Ensure you get thicker head gaskets in the appropriate ratio. If the head is resurfaced. I had head resurfacing and now need bigger head gaskets.

[MDMH757]

This raises a question I have. Is the thicker gasket only provided if the head has been resurfaced? Are there situations in which a thicker gasket is necessary when the head has not been resurfaced?

[norbury.brook]

Only if sufficiently resurfaced to need a larger gasket.

An large gasket on a stock component reduces the compression ratio. Utilising bigger or thinner head gaskets is a traditional technique among hot rodders to slightly adjust compression levels.

Most resurfaces do not need a bigger head gasket unless there was significant warping initially. The company will only remove the necessary amount to restore the surface to its original state. Most need simply a few thousand.

Your shop should inform you of the amount they removed, and then you may determine whether a larger gasket is necessary.

The primary issue with standard rebuilds and the need for bigger gaskets is the space between the valves and pistons. A few thousand off the top will be inconsequential in that regard.

BMW designates the oversized gasket as +0.300 large. In machining terminology, it is an excessive quantity of material to eliminate only to align the head.

If they had to remove such a significant amount from the head, I would seek a replacement, since it indicates substantial abuse or improper handling during removal, such as failure to adhere to the correct torque pattern during installation or removal. Such extensive removal usually occurs when both the head and the block have been resurfaced.

[DMGRS]

ECS has ultimately organised things for me. There are three delivery ways, and now, FedEx exhibits the lowest reliability in our region. Ensure you contact them to arrange the shipment of your items according to your preferred method, rather than opting for their lowest tier "free shipping."