nicebubby8 Posted 1 hour ago Share Posted 1 hour ago Greetings, everyone. I am receiving many trouble codes on my 2010 E350. The initial focus is on the Air Intake Temperature sensor, which I intend to replace due to the original appearing contaminated, and the cost is sufficiently low. I was informed that the codes are associated with a defective MAF sensor. Enclosed are the codes and the real-time readings from my Maf sensors. Disconnecting sensor B results in a value of 0g. Upon disconnecting Sensor A, the readout displays 166g, while Sensor B subsequently increases to 8g. I am willing to invest in a replacement MAF, but I seek guidance before proceeding with the expenditure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicebubby8 Posted 1 hour ago Author Share Posted 1 hour ago Well I've just replaced the temp sensor and I'm not surprised but it didn't fix the issue. Upon disconnecting Sensor A, I observed that its temperature remains at 79°C while Sensor B's temperature decreases to 21°C. Upon disconnecting Sensor B, both temperatures stabilise at 79°C. The subsequent course of action appears to be attempting a costly MAF replacement, unless someone possesses other insights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MidnightMarauder Posted 1 hour ago Share Posted 1 hour ago How is it functioning?Whenever I experienced MAF failure, the vehicles operated quite poorly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DenishP4 Posted 1 hour ago Share Posted 1 hour ago It is uncertain if this information will be beneficial, but when my MAF sensor was offline due to a missing fuse, a prominent characteristic was difficult upshifts. If your vehicle is an automatic and you are encountering the same issue, it likely indicates a malfunctioning MAF sensor. - presuming that MB configures the transmission ECU to default to elevated line pressures in the absence of MAF sensor data, as observed in my 4L 80E. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rab60bit88 Posted 1 hour ago Share Posted 1 hour ago Does a new MAF sensor require coding, or is it plug-and-play? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rab60bit88 Posted 1 hour ago Share Posted 1 hour ago https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=maf sensor&campid=5338181132&customid=2518X1570512Xf9175ef9d38da883b58403db99c3c9e4&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&subId2=15&toolid=10001 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicebubby8 Posted 1 hour ago Author Share Posted 1 hour ago I apologise, everyone. I did not receive notifications regarding your responses. I ultimately resolved it. The MAF was indeed defective. I purchased a pre-owned Y-Pipe in superior condition than mine, which included one MAF. I transferred my functional MAF to it, and it accurately registered the temperature and airflow readings. Nevertheless, I occasionally have a minor hitch after startup. Avantgarde indicated at Clevedon that the adjustments must be recalibrated for optimal performance. The issue is that I currently reside in Scotland, necessitating the search for a reputable independent establishment in Edinburgh. All local garages I have contacted have provided a standard quotation of approximately £90 for one hour of service. I would be more advantageous to purchase a superior fault reader for the two minutes required to reset it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rab60bit88 Posted 1 hour ago Share Posted 1 hour ago You may reset it by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicebubby8 Posted 1 hour ago Author Share Posted 1 hour ago Disconnected the negative connection for 20 minutes while I replaced the fuel filter today. Currently, it is idling more effectively. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black_raven Posted 1 hour ago Share Posted 1 hour ago It is advisable to inspect all o-rings and seals on the turbo outlet (aluminium pipe) leading to the resonator (plastic box at the front of the engine) and the intercooler. I believe your 2010 model possesses the same or a very similar engine as my 2009 E280. I recently completed all my maintenance, and the performance has significantly improved; it drives much better than before. I previously underestimated its condition, but I now recognise how slow the throttle response and downshifts were. Several of these seals may have been compromised during the installation of the new intake, which is how I realised mine need replacement, as I subsequently experienced a check engine light owing to multiple leaks, including a boost leak at the intercooler pipe. I wanted to bring this to your attention, although you may already be aware. Here is a highly beneficial link that I utilised. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicebubby8 Posted 1 hour ago Author Share Posted 1 hour ago Indeed, I completed all necessary tasks when I replaced the thermostat, so I believe I am adequately prepared in that regard. I observed typical oil spots around the seal positions, which had been improperly installed. It appears that the new MAF required calibration in my situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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