Shaking in the CX-9's Transmission

[honeycut_mazda5]

The 2016 CX-9 I was driving shook violently while on the road. In addition, there seems to be a difficulty with changing between low and high gears. The distance was about 101,000 kilometers. Based on my findings, it seems like it could be time to change the Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). When I took it in for service at 101k miles, they informed me the fluid would likely last the lifetime of the car.

The problem with changing into higher ratios disappeared when I had Jiffy Lube replace the transmission fluid. Since then, the transmission has shuddered three times and the shifting has not improved in low levels.

Went and dropped it off at the Mazda dealer. The technician took it for a spin on the road and reported no hard shift or shaking (which happens seldom). When accelerating in first through third gear, though, he also heard a harsh rubbing noise. He also discovered oil seeping from the driver-side transmission mount, and hypothesized that this was the source of the unpleasant rubbing sound. The technician suggested swapping out the mount. The price of the component and the labor to install it was $899 before taxes.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it will solve the problem. I don't know whether the mount is related to the shaking or not.

I was wondering if anybody else had a similar experience. Thanks.

[QuirkyPixel]

I was wondering what jiffy lube was used for and thought maybe you could explain it in more detail.
As far as I'm concerned, the fluid will last "LIFETIME" till the warranty expires. Pan fluid and filter service is still recommended for automatic transmissions on a regular basis throughout their service life.
Make sure they provide and show you the broken mount before agreeing to a replacement. If it hasn't broken, there's no charge for fixing it or replacing it.

Trying to "guess at the part that has failed" is not acceptable.

[honeycut_mazda5]

Many thanks!

The absence of a check engine light is something I should have highlighted.

[QuirkyPixel]

What they imply is exactly that. However, this would not be of much use until the individual reviewed the ECU records of DTC happened and cleared, both for pending and permanent DTC. On the other hand, I appreciate you sharing this data.

[honeycut_mazda5]

I brought my CX-9 to a Jiffy Lube since that particular shop does not provide the more advanced services like as ATF exchange, flush, pan drop, and filter replacement.

I'm not certain that getting a new transmission mount would fix the problems I've been having. The service adviser assured me that the technician did not suspect a problem with my transmission, which is excellent news, but he did not determine the root of the issue. Even if the price tag is so high, I think I have no choice but to follow the advice I was given.

[QuirkyPixel]

In such case, I suppose I would have suggested getting the filters serviced. If you lower the pan, you may inspect the gearbox from underneath. From what you've described, I'd "guess" that varnish has built up in the transmission's valley body and other parts, preventing them from functioning properly. Until the pan is lowered for examination, however, it is anyone's guess as to whether or not this is fixable.
In addition, I would not go forward with a complete transmission service (requiring specialized tools) until the condition of the pan has been checked.
You could take a sample and get it evaluated, but I'm rather sure the results will reveal a lot of unnecessary components still present in your transmission.

[honeycut_mazda5]

After the ATF swap at Jiffy Lube, you still attribute the shaking (bouncing) to contaminated fluid? Should I have the dealership lower the pan and replace the filter instead of repairing the transmission mount?

[QuirkyPixel]

I didn't specify the source of the tremor, only how to go about finding it and perhaps fixing it.
Additionally, the total capacity of the transmission is 10–13 quarts, while the pan can contain 3.5–4 quarts. Transmission fluid should be diluted only in the beginning, after a filter service, and again at regular intervals during the transmission's life, but not if it has exceeded 50,000 miles or is experiencing issues.

There are alternative methods through which they may have ascertained the mount's badness. As opposed to "checking," their "deterring" approach seems more like a witch hunt. If one of my servicemen ever told me that, I'd question him, "so is it the mount or not? It's either broken, failing, or not working at all. They may be paid by the work rather than by the hour because of this. LOL

[honeycut_mazda5]

I just finished calling the dealership's service department to inquire about having the pan lowered and the filter changed. The Service Advisor emphasized that by completing the swap, they would be able to remove more of the old fluid and replace it with fresh fluid (about 12 quarts). He said the filter is beyond repair, yet I've seen it replaced in action on YouTube.

[QuirkyPixel]

you had to go and put up a video on "youtuibe"

I hate it when people do that while I'm trying to assist.

Okay, other from that, based on everything I've read thus far, I think you should "stay clear of that dealership"! Holy cow!

Check out my previous post.

Here are some filters for YOUR Mazda, by the way! Funny, RockAuto

 

Also, you won't be done with maintenance after only replacing the filter and pan fluid. Removing all of the gunge from the pan and the magnet is a must. Then, remove as much varnish as possible from the filter's exposed underside and edges using a clean, white cloth or rag. After that, every 5,000 miles the fluid has to be drained and refilled. Alternately, you may take the vehicle to a repair facility equipped with a Transmission Service Machine to have the fluid changed, the pan magnet cleaned, and the filter replaced.
A transmission specialist will be able to accomplish all of this and more, including checking the transmission's ECU and doing a pressure test. However, a few hundred dollars is all it will cost to fix.

A fresh off the shelf Mazda's transmission fluid might look like this, and so can the fluid with the pan removed. I have documented the oil changes and fluid checks I've performed on my thread.
What I like to do with my Mazda3 - Mazda Forum | Mazda Car Forums

To be quite frank, there isn't much more I can do to assist....

 

[honeycut_mazda5]

LOL. If that's how you felt, I apologize :-). The SA kept telling me the filter is unserviceable, so I had to look into it more. I remembered seeing a YouTube video of a person fixing a filter, so I knew it was possible. I though I'd share it in case anybody else needed a primer on what a transmission filter and pan look like.

Thank you very much for your assistance, and for providing the resources you mentioned.

[QuirkyPixel]

The youtube video was more of a punchline. that's why emo kids act so silly, with expressions like OMG and rolling their eyes.
According to me, almost 90 percent of the DIY guides and even some of the so-called "Mechanics" offer advice and instructions that are erroneous or just false. And as many of us know, this affects almost every facet of existence. LOL My advice is to avoid using any videos found on YouTube without first verifying their veracity and ensuring they adhere to standard operating procedures.

[migueldosantos77]

My guess is that Iffy Lube utilized a Dexron ATF with a Lubegard-type ATF supplement and exchanged it using their ATF exchange equipment, which would drastically reduce their inventory space and training needs. Possibly OK, but it's my least preferred option. The Mazda FZ fluid is recommended for use in the ATF. Multi-vehicle fluids like Valvoline Maxlife are a good second option. For me, I like the FZ. If operated properly and with the proper fluid, the exchange machine delivers satisfactory results.

Did you know Mazda USA offers an online parts shop where you can replace that broken transmission strainer? Strainer, oil, model #FZ01-21-500, may be purchased in any quantity for $49.94 apiece. (I'll offer up one) Strainer for the transmission To get into the nitty-gritty, a strainer is a single layer of perforated (often metal). A filter's intricate design allows for far narrower openings.

It's important to keep in mind that the service writer we encounter at the dealership is a commission salesperson of services and not usually a highly qualified professional. The fact that they make an impressive pretense of auto expertise is sometimes their most notable quality.

 

[QuirkyPixel]

The so-called "exchange machine" has really been shown to be the root of many transmission issues across several platforms. Neither do I encourage nor suggest using that technique while swapping out fluids.

Again, actual evidence shows that using Mazda-specific FZ is unnecessary since MAZDA ATF fluid is just as good as other brands like Castrol ATF for Mazda gearboxes.
The use of this tool will NOT invalidate the warranty on your transmission.
Warranty Act of Magnuson-Moss (See Wikipedia Article)
In reality, the strainers are only a stopgap measure until the necessary pan and filter servicing can be performed. Most aftermarket and OEM replacement pan filters aren't as effective as they seem. Consider using externally mounted can or inline style filters to enhance filtration.

Lats Commission-based salaries are NOT the norm for all service writers. In reality, many dealerships pay their service department employees a salary and promote from inside. Sure, many dealerships provide bonuses for specific departments.
Simply inquire whether or not the service is required and have them note their response on the service description. Easy Peasy!!!

 

[migueldosantos77]

The Magnuson-Moss Act forbids the use of substandard materials and components. Dexron-ULV transmission fluid is required in certain General Motors vehicles, although you may use any licensed Dexron-ULV fluid instead of the ACDelco brand. The issue is that we lack information on product specifications for things like Mazda FZ fluid. A legal source of FZ would be fantastic. If not, you're just taking a wild guess. We don't require engine oil labeled by the automobile company; we only need an engine oil that satisfies the engine maker's specification, since engine oil is manufactured to worldwide standard standards. OE oil filters don't have published standards, so it's best to go with the one that comes with your vehicle. The manufacturer will not honor the guarantee if a generic filter fails and causes engine damage. To be clear, I'm not suggesting that you shouldn't use a high-quality filter like a WIX/NAPA or a Baldwin or any other top filter; I'm only stating that doing so may prevent a dispute or legal action within the warranty term.

Disconnecting a cooler line, starting the engine, pumping out 3 quarts of ATF into a bucket, stopping the engine, adding 3 fresh quarts to the filler, pumping out 3 more, etc., etc., until you've used up around 14 quarts and corrected the level: that's how I've done transmission flushes at home. Positive outcomes have been seen. My prior vehicle had a Magnefine in-line transmission filter and my current truck has a Racor in a cooler line for the transmission fluid. Both of those cars' gearboxes lasted me well over 200,000 miles. The truck's rack and pinion steering functioned as if it had never been used thanks to a 1/2" Magnefine filter installed on the hydraulic power steering return line. In my past, I've worked extensively with hydraulic equipment. Hydraulic power steering and automatic gearboxes share a need for clean, warm fluid.

[QuirkyPixel]

The use of your transmission fluid approach attracts clients to both your establishment and other similar automotive repair businesses. This approach is not considered a recommended method for doing the process, since it often leads to detrimental effects on transmissions.

It is not advisable for any reader to replicate your approach.