migueldosantos77

🙃🙃🙃

Do regular code readers show that the HVC heater has failed, even though it should show up on the LR Pathfinder?

Just had to get a new aux battery, relay module, and battery contactor module from LR; I'm still shelling out close to $4,000. It seems that LR doesn't check these things during service or major EV side repairs. I spoke with the wife, and she was unaware that the car's heating worked even when the engine wasn't running. She also mentioned that the heater wasn't always turned on, but left off when the engine started, which she didn't realise was a problem. I lost track of how many times they misdiagnosed or underdiagnosed the car while it was in their workshop for a couple of weeks. They kept plugging it into the LR pathfinder. It was still unusual for me because the cabin heater is off and the engine doesn't start normally.

I have just gone for a spin in supposedly fully charged EV mode, with the throttle set to a light setting, in slightly damp but not rainy or cold weather. As far as I'm aware, turning on the fan only heats the seats; otherwise, it starts the engine to warm the cabin. Driving more slowly enabled it to coast as the EV mode changed to "Grey" and the engine started. I put the engine in park after three miles and head to the repair shop. After I turn off the engine and return to EV drive, the engine starts again. I take a short detour, stop for a few minutes, and the engine keeps running. As I near home, the engine switches to EV "Blue" and stops. Seriously, I can handle this shit; once it's in EV, it should stay there. So, what gives?

Being a premium car, I have always ensured that it has premium tires. Specifying Pirellis as OEM is common for a reason. The problem with cheaper brands can be that they cut corners on things like wear rates and other details. My Pirellis were good for 60,000 miles.

Maybe; I've scheduled an appointment with the tyre fitter to have them take a look. It seems like something might have come loose or been broken while it was being fitted. If they are unable to fix it, I will schedule an appointment with Kia for next week. Despite the tires being fully inflated, the following messages have appeared on the screens. Thank you, but I am unable to implement that solution as my vehicle does not contain a reset button.

Hello, I usually see the individual tyre pressures displayed on my 2024 '3'. Earlier this evening, while driving home, everything was going smoothly. However, after stopping for approximately 40 minutes, I resumed my journey, but the display only shows the "drive to display" message without the values appearing after a short while. I drove six miles at different speeds and gave it two hours of my time, but it still wouldn't display any values. So, I can't even hold the tyre fitter responsible because the front tires were replaced approximately three weeks ago and the pressures were fine. Is this the first time you've run into an issue like this? Do you know what happened if there was an easy way to fix it? Much obliged.

The Kodiaq arrived late last night. I'm not getting carried away just because it's shiny though. It's booked into my mechanic for a proper inspection.

Thanks for all the replies. I've asked for everything in writing first and I've gone through the paperwork they've sent.

In my 2022 Kia Sportage, I'm getting the following message: "the current version is newer than the update" (NQ5e_H.EUR.55W_L.001.001.251204). Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Much obliged.

It appears that you were compelled to sew the interior of the wheel? It appears to be controlled as well. The improvement is really excellent.

Very nice! What was the source of that?

Hi all, I’ve been searching for a used family car and found one being handled by NWEST Transport ( https://nwest-transport.co.uk/ ) from Belfast. From the information I’ve received, they operate in logistics and also handle certain vehicle sales. As this would be my first remote purchase, I’m checking the paperwork...payment arrangements, inspection process and delivery terms carefully. Has anybody dealt with the company directly..either for a vehicle purchase or transportation?

It was the gearbox mount that gave me severe vibrations whether I was moving, stopped, or accelerated. As far as I am aware, they are not costly, and they are easy to replace. It would be wise to have the gearbox mount examined, albeit I cannot confirm the sounds. May it be of assistance.

It is clear, thank you. Then, what problems did you encounter?

It was completely fake. They still haven't revealed the source, but I'm guessing Aerosus.

On the left side of the back of my 2013 E63 estate, I could hear a knocking sound. After I brought it to a nearby MB specialist, they advised me to get a new shocker. I got the shocker changed, but on the drive home I discovered that the adaptive suspension button was frozen on one light, making it impossible to manipulate. Returned it, and he informed me that they are unable to reprogram the level sensor at this time. So I scheduled the installation of a new level sensor. However, after they finished the job, he contacted me to inform me that they had encountered a another issue—the right shocker's valves were no longer functioning. He then informed me that I also needed a shocker on that side since the adaptive suspension was still not functioning properly. When I returned home and checked on the vehicle the following day, I noticed that the suspension had significantly lowered. Before now, I've never experienced this issue. Is there something suspicious going on here, or is this just a coincidence? I am grateful.

A jack and wheel brace are standard equipment in neither my A Class nor the other person's. The air pump and the bottle of worthless stuff are all you get. A spare doughnut wheel, jack, and wheel brace were all things I bought for both of them. It is not in my interest to be stranded, retrieved, or held to ransom by a tyre manufacturer that does not even carry my tyre size. After a puncture, I did in fact use the spare doughnut wheel that I had bought for the A class. I'm really grateful that I had it on hand because getting a matching tyre was a two-day ordeal.

Feeling relieved that it was successful

https://www.startmycar.com/gb/kia/sportage/info/fusebox/2024

Connected directly to the body, my components are on fuse 6, which is for accessories, and fuse 9, which is for battery positive. Used the companion app to adjust my dashcam's parameters.

I will snap a picture of my wiring after Mrs. returns from taking the car. A hardwire kit was purchased for my gku dashcam. My battery's positive terminal is yellow, and the red wire is an accessory.

One of the spare fuses is an accessory that turns on just when the engine is turned on, and I utilised the other spare, which is a permanent 12-volt, to power everything. I haven't had any issues with the battery warning since I changed mine from 24-hour recording to recording only when the car is hit.

One of the spare fuses is an accessory that turns on just when the engine is turned on, and I utilised the other spare, which is a permanent 12-volt, to power everything.