migueldosantos77

I fail to see how manipulating the MAF (Mass Air Flow) might have influence on the fuel injection process. I comprehend the issue as follows: inside the electronic control unit (ECU), one has the ability to manipulate the intake air pressure by requesting the mass air flow (MAF) as a function of revolutions per minute (RPM) and injection quantity (IQ). This information is subsequently converted into a duty cycle map for the turbo actuator. To optimise fuel consumption, you may use the IQ (injection quantity) as a function of RPM (revolutions per minute) and throttle demand. This information is then converted into a duty cycle map for the VP44 pump and SOI (start of injection). I am perplexed by the functioning of the VP44 duty cycle map, which exhibits a rise in relation to IQ and a reduction in relation to RPM. I have also been informed that the pump operates in a closed loop configuration at about 2000 RPM or lower. However, I lack much knowledge on this matter, and it is now my primary area of worry. Ultimately, I am contemplating which technique to use in order to calibrate the new injectors. Should I first address the issue of unstable idling and thereafter make direct modifications to the drivers' desired map, acknowledging that it will result in an excessive fuel injection? Alternatively, should I adjust the pump map using the current IQ values found in other maps? You are welcome to correct me.

This formula encourages over-fueling without the use of boost, leading to the creation of smoke, diesel contamination in the oil, and reduced fuel economy. Previously, there existed a restricted number of enterprises with the capacity to calibrate the electronic control unit (ECU), which is mostly embedded inside the pump.

Greetings, gentlemen. I want to upgrade the injector nozzles on my 320d 136hp (non-common rail version). The potential new nozzles I am contemplating are DLLA145P593, which have the potential to provide a 70% augmentation in fuel compared to the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) DLLA145P748 nozzles. Nevertheless, I am uncertain about the process of calibrating the Engine Control Unit (ECU) with this adjustment, particularly while the engine is idling. I suspect that there is an inactive map stored in the Engine Control Unit (ECU), however I am uncertain about the precise method for locating and appropriately modifying it. Moreover, I have doubts about the response of the VP44 pump to these bigger nozzles, as well as its actual maximum injection quantities (IQs). I would really value any counsel or profound understanding you may provide. Thank you!

Conduct thorough research! Avoid purchasing this car! My vehicle is now undergoing repairs for the second time within a span of 19 days due to the activation of the engine warning light. This blog features accounts from automobile owners who have had complete car failures and have had to have their vehicles transported to dealerships throughout the country. These owners have been without their cars for periods ranging from 30 to 40 days, with intermittent periods of availability. Mazda of North America and Japan do not have any remedies or codes available, and the list of unresolved issues continues indefinitely. The dealer that sold me the car deceived me by withholding information about any problems beyond recalls. As the second owner, I am now initiating the legal process of filing a lawsuit against them for knowingly selling me a vehicle with significant issues, which may be classified as a lemon based on the many problems experienced by the first owner. State laws provide legal protection for "used" vehicles, including those that are certified pre-owned (CPO) and have obtained a waiver by paying the necessary fees. These laws apply to both dealers and politicians. I will provide you with regular updates! If you need particular information, please reach out to me via this blog. I am gathering all available evidence and documentation to support my lawyer's efforts in recovering the sum of $43,980 that is owed to me.

Locate a vacant industrial area with a wet road surface, then accelerate rapidly from a stationary position. This action should provide you with the desired information.

The PCD (Pitch Circle Diameter) remains unchanged, and there are several photographs available on Google showing them installed on the Vito. Is anybody familiar with or aware of staggered alloys that can be installed on a Vito?

The component number in issue is a2134012000. It is possible that my knowledge is inaccurate, but I believed that these wheels had a weight capacity of 750kg.

Greetings, I am seeking guidance about the selection of wheels for my just obtained Vito. The item in question is a 2017 model with a serial number of 447. I have discovered a set of wheels that I find aesthetically appealing, which originally belong to a vehicle of the E class. The load rating is sufficient, however I am facing difficulties mostly with the offset and fitting. The wheels have a size of 19x8 with an offset of et43 for the front, and a size of 19x9 with an offset of et49 for the rear. Is it permissible to install a staggered wheel configuration like this on the Vito, and would these offsets and widths be appropriate? I would much appreciate any assistance. Thank you.

Did the performance upgrade in generation 2.5 also result in a decrease in cabin insulation? I am aware that HP (horsepower) is more and the braking system is different. However, what additional distinctions exist?

I often come across complaints on online forums from individuals who really dislike it when others attempt to engage in a competitive race with them when crossing paths on public roads. The self-righteous grandfathers on Rennlist are very vocal about this issue, but it is less prevalent on our site. Now, to clarify, I have declined similar attempts from young individuals driving BRZ sports cars and extensively modified Honda Civics. However, the distinction, at least from my perspective, lies in the fact that such individuals do not bother or irritate me. I do not have a condescending attitude towards them. Last year, I saw a highly modified M3 that swiftly passed me on the highway, attempting to provoke me into a race. However, I chose not to engage in such activity, finding it amusing instead. I really appreciate that kind of care. I like encountering other aficionados who possess a genuine want to vigorously operate their automobiles. While I often refrain from engaging in street racing, with a few rare instances as exceptions, I may sometimes increase my vehicle's throttle and produce audible crackling sounds to indicate my willingness to participate and demonstrate my shared passion for racing. I find individuals who drive supercars and without any discernible personality to be rather bothersome. They operate the vehicle at a reduced speed, similar to how one would drive a Toyota Corolla. It is analogous to engaging in sexual intercourse with a supermodel who remains still and unresponsive, like a doll. Does anybody else have the same sentiment?

Thank you, everyone. Tomorrow, I will contact them to inquire about the method of engine oil removal, namely whether it will be sucked out or drained. I will then proceed accordingly. I had not previously considered the oil for the torque converter. I will inquire about it once again tomorrow. Additionally, I will request the provision of the current software codes for both the Gearbox and Sat Nav systems, and thereafter request the acquisition of the updated codes upon completion of all necessary tasks. The frequency of transmission events is not consistent and is quite seldom. However, the mere awareness of its potential occurrence motivates me to actively pursue a solution. If future occurrences can be minimised, it would be very desirable. Additionally, expediting gear-changes would be highly advantageous. Therefore, I want to inquire about this matter tomorrow. I neglected to inquire about price matching with other dealers; instead, I used the internet service tool and found that another dealer offers a price about £200 lower. I will now await their response. Regrettably, I am not subscribed to a service plan, so the whole payment will be made upon collection. I have been contemplating the Warranty, and despite my initial intention to sell the car next Summer in order to use the funds to pay off a portion of the mortgage, I find myself preferring to keep it. None of the previous cars I have owned, borrowed, or driven have caused me as much distress as this one. I have one week to decide whether I will extend the warranty, as it will be officially three years old on October 16th.

Good day, everyone. I have scheduled my vehicle for its third-year service on Wednesday with Mercedes Benz of Colchester (while Chelmsford is the nearest, I have previously had it serviced by Colchester and they were excellent). I have requested that they do several tasks during their time, and as a result of my Obsessive-Compulsive Disorder (OCD), I have developed a checklist to ensure that all tasks are completed. These tasks encompass: 1) The A0 service, referred to as A by Merc, is indicated by the automobile as A0:dk:. The three-year gearbox service. 3). Examine intermittent abruptness in the gearbox between speeds 1 and 2. 4). Examine the bothersome noise coming from the central air vent in the Dash. 5). Update the Sat Nav software to the most recent version. Initial MOT The aforementioned tasks will need a whole day, and maybe even more, to complete. I would want to ensure that all the desired and expected tasks from Mercedes are carried out on the automobile. Therefore, I have a few inquiries, which encompass: 1). Service - I would like to emphasise that when changing the oil, it is important to warm up the car and completely drain the oil, including the oil cooler, to remove as much of the old oil as possible. I have come across several cases where the oil coolers were not drained and owners found the oil on the dip stick to be dirty or dark. Is there any further information that I should seek or emphasise? 2 and 3. Transmission - I presume that an ATF change is just an ATF change, with no additional factors to consider as the unit is hermetically sealed. Furthermore, I presume that the fluid alteration would resolve the intermittent fluctuations. Should I formally request a software update, or will this be addressed as a component of the service? 4). Creaking - This is a prevalent problem that I have just lately been aware of, since I do not drive the vehicle as often as I would like. However, I am aware that it is causing a disturbance in my obsessive-compulsive disorder (OCD), therefore I am determined to resolve this issue. 5. Satellite Navigation - After thoroughly reviewing all the documentation for the automobile, I have found no evidence of any recent modifications within the last three years. Therefore, it can be inferred that the car is still in the same condition as when it was first manufactured in Germany three years ago. - I presume that the modifications made in the most recent version will be substantial, allowing me to refrain from questioning its completion. However, for my own reassurance, how can I verify the current version of the software? Is anybody aware of the code for the most recent version it might or should possess? 6). MOT - I am curiously anticipating the test results as I am really concerned about maintaining the quality of my vehicles. Previously, all three of my cars (2 BM's and 1 Audi) were sold before reaching 3 years old. However, this particular car (my first AMG) has captivated me more than any other, therefore I have chosen to retain it for a longer period of time. Apologies for the many inquiries, but as previously said, I have a strong inclination towards maintaining my vehicles in impeccable shape. However, owing to the demands of job and family, I am unable to drive them as much as I like. In fact, I have not covered a distance of 1500 miles since acquiring my car about a year ago. My Obsessive-Compulsive Disorder (OCD) compels me to ensure that my vehicle is in impeccable condition, even though I do not often use it. Given that Wednesday's visit will cost around £900, I would want to be well prepared. Thank you in advance.

After replacing the valve, I recommend inspecting the wiring and connections for any potential problems.

Not elevated in the slightest. Verify the presence of magnetic ride suspension, if applicable. In my own experience, they typically have a lifespan of around 30,000 units. It is uncertain if your automobile is equipped with these. I am uncertain about the specific year or model you are considering.

Verify the statistics before proceeding. Also forgot that part.

My wife only goes for short runs. What I do is take it once a month when I visit my sister, put it in sport mode, increase the revs to 3k, and then click the cruise button. I only get a mileage of around 12 miles on the dual carriageway, but it seems to effectively maintain the diesel particulate filter (DPF) free. You don't need to travel far, just heat it up. Forgot to mention that it is hot before I enter the dual road.

Do you often engage in short runs? Furthermore, as WanderlustGuru said, what about thermostats?

You said "manually cleared," could you clarify its meaning? It seems to be blocked. Consider using a diesel particulate filter (DPF) cleaner in the tank, but don't expect certain results.

The auto dealer for my non-Kia vehicle only performed an oil change during the "full pre-delivery" service, but they overfilled the oil. The air and pollen filters were heavily contaminated, resembling ash pans.

Sure, I will. It occurs inconsistently. Years ago, I had a situation when a stone became lodged between a calliper and a disc on a different automobile, causing a loud squealing noise. Thank you very much

After the strip down and clean up over the weekend, the fbh has been functioning perfectly with little smoke for the last several days, which is an improvement from previously. To determine the source of the metallic scraping noise as I accelerate, it seems like something is grinding on either a brake shield or one of the metal coverings below the vehicle. It might also be due to a loose rear prop centre bearing. Thank you

Today, I disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled my fuel bowl heater. Fortunately, the pottery remained unbroken. It leaked while attempting to start it after the repair, although it had the same issue before it was taken out. Thank you very much

Thank you, that clarifies the situation. Thank you

Hello everyone. I have been attempting to address an intermittent problem with the fbh, where it sometimes activates and other times does not. ACM-Audio System Error code U0166-00 indicates a loss of communication with the auxiliary heating control module. AHCM stands for Auxilary Heater Control Module. Code B1D31-94 indicates that a flame was detected before the system started operating normally due to a component failure leading to unexpected operation. While experimenting, I saw diesel leaking from the exhaust on the FBH where the exhaust port connects to the concertina exhaust pipe and trickling onto the inner wing. Has anybody else seen this issue, and is there a solution available? I presume the lack of leakage occurs while the heater is priming, since there are no leaks when it is operational. Thank you

Contact the repair centre that received the ECU. Inquire about the absence of electricity from the ECU to the MAP sensor despite the ECU being functional.