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My 212 snapped in half the second I tried to use my jack on it. I wouldn't recommend it because of the price of the wrong jack.

A jack and wheel brace are standard equipment in neither my A Class nor the other person's. The air pump and the bottle of worthless stuff are all you get. A spare doughnut wheel, jack, and wheel brace were all things I bought for both of them. It is not in my interest to be stranded, retrieved, or held to ransom by a tyre manufacturer that does not even carry my tyre size. After a puncture, I did in fact use the spare doughnut wheel that I had bought for the A class. I'm really grateful that I had it on hand because getting a matching tyre was a two-day ordeal.

Awful, awful s****. 🤬. Should I invest in the right jack? I find that wheel brace to be quite useful. Superior quality.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cht938-extendable-wheel-brace-1/?sv_campaign_id=78888&sv_tax1=affiliate&sv_tax2=&sv_tax3=Skimlinks&sv_tax4=forums.mbclub.co.uk&sv_affiliate_id=78888&awc=3131_1773481868_ee76a01416210cbc07defa887ae60fba

Somebody has gotten their hands on your toolbox. An electric inflator, wheel braces, and a jack are all standard equipment on my E63s. I suggest you have one of these in your toolbox because the wheelbrace is subpar. There is also a plethora of options on eBay. No extras are available. The electric inflator and tyre sealant are to be utilised by us. In case of an unexpected situation, get up a few cans of tyreweld at Halfords.

So, I didn't get a spare, jack, or wheel brace with my new purchase. I have a question for the group: has anyone ever needed a jack and wheel brace for their vehicle? If so, have you purchased them? I feel like I'll regret not getting them and then I'll never use them if I do. Is anyone thinking about that?

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Please inform us of your progress.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Residue-Free-Equipment/dp/B00KPUBO2S/ref=asc_df_B00KPUBO2S?linkCode=df0&hvadid=80333274991042&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=41234&hvtargid=pla-4583932738994309&msclkid=3601442e058711a180352d9e1e7ddd6a&th=1&_encoding

My seatbelt is completely unbuckled, so I'll give this a go. Although I do have some WD40 Specialist Fast drying contact cleanser on hand, I believe it mostly serves to remove grime and not lubricate the surface as the silicone you suggested.

Much obliged. Amazon is delivering tomorrow, and I'm experiencing the same problem. Issue resolved in under a minute. 🤞

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000297TQM?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_4&th=1&_encoding

On my 2002 E53, I experienced issues with the belts not retracting. He couldn't believe it when he tested it on an M8s belt after finding an idea online; he was even more amazed when it worked on another belt. After you fully extend the belt and lightly spritz it with this, feed it in and out; it should begin to function. Your apparel will also remain unmarked.

Greetings, Gentlemen! The hand-operated seat belts are integrated into the seat in my 2018 4 Series convertible. Problem: The passenger side seat belt won't retract. Opening the unit is not working for me. Nothing has turned up, and I have searched high and low. None of the fasteners are there. How can I repair the malfunctioning front seat belt retractor? Can I open the seat all the way?

Salutations, Everyone! In my 2018 convertible 4 Series, the seat belts are built into the seat and are operated manually. Issue: The seat belt for the passenger side won't retract. How do I open the unit? I have looked everywhere but have come up empty-handed. There aren't any fasteners. The front seat belt retractor is broken; how can I fix it? Must I fully open the seat?

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Good grief. I'm currently located in Connecticut.

In addition, your "OldFart" would be useful to me at the age of 73. Tell me where you're at.

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In addition to this '25CX30,' I also own a '73 RX2,' a '79 RX7, and cars in general are my pastime. My 2013 Focus Titanium hatchback, which has clocked just over 49,000 miles, is being replaced by this.

In case anyone was wondering, the garage has indeed identified the oil cooler as the source of the problem. Grainy sand filled the space within the water jacket and all the pipes that had been inserted into it when we removed it. Plenty, not just a little. The result is that the cooler has burst due to the buildup of pressure. From what I can see, it has nothing to do with the engine and is neither magnetic nor metallic. I am familiar with the car's history up to the last year's 30,000 miles, during which time it has had the oil changed and a serpentine belt installed, but other than that, it has been completely unaltered. Nothing has been done with the coolant system. Is there anybody who can guess what it could be? Although it's strange that it went 30,000 miles before exhibiting difficulties, one reasonable hypothesis is that a radweld similar to Bars Leak may have been added (too many times) prior to my ownership. My only other theory is that someone or something was deliberately added to the coolant system, but nobody other than people I trust has been near the vehicle. Is anyone else thinking about possible other explanations? I am grateful.

Wow, that's dark! I've never heard of that before, but I can see how it may be useful. Surprising things might happen at any time!

How long has the car been on the market? Placing oil in the expansion tank is a typical tactic for would-be purchasers looking to lowball sellers.

Definitely, the transmission won't stay sealed forever. The Mercedes manual specifies how often you should change the filter and fluid. Even if these have evolved, they are still necessary.

Since I checked the level two weeks ago and added more, I can say with certainty that the coolant is not old. But it's good to know. We'll make sure it's not gearbox oil; if that doesn't work, we'll go on to the oil cooler and cross our fingers. In any case, we need to get out of here soon. I am grateful.