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How frequently does the DPF in your OM642 regenerate? Mine appears to occur quite regularly.I have not verified, but I would estimate approximately every 300 miles. I have not been engaging in long-distance activities recently, which will not be beneficial. Does anyone know the average mileage between regenerations? Does anyone have an explanation for why it may regenerate excessively? The DPF fill levels are within typical parameters, and there are no defects detected on the ICarsoft. I have heard that intake air leaks can lead to excessive regenerations. Is there anything else? I am not really concerned, as she is already driving proficiently without any concerns; yet, it would be reassuring to have confirmation. Thank you in advance.

A significant endorsement for trusting the dipstick. Examine it after the vehicle has been stationary for an extended period.

The correct method for measuring oil involves ensuring the engine is warm, the vehicle is parked on a flat surface, the engine is turned off, and the measurement is taken after a five-minute interval.

Rely on the dipstick, disregard the sensor. The dipstick provides a tangible measurement; unless the tube is damaged or the dipstick is not fully inserted, it cannot yield inaccurate results. As previously stated, ensure that the oil has fully drained into the sump prior to measurement. Both of my vehicles have 230,000 miles, and there is no issue with the oil taking an extended period to drain into the sump.

Given that the engine has 200,000 miles, the oil may require a longer duration to return due to the accumulation of sludge and other debris in the drainage channels. Consequently, the drainage process may exceed one hour, contingent upon the internal state of the engine. Maintain the fluid level at three-quarters when cold, and fill it to the maximum when cold after standing overnight to avoid any complications.

After an hour, I observed that the oil level is slightly below the minimum threshold. It perplexes me that after being left overnight, it appears approximately three-quarters full, although it is not saturated with oil; only a faint outline is visible. This is the appearance after one hour of leaving it. Completely devoid

If your iDrive indicates 3/4 and your dipstick also reads 3/4 when cold, then the iDrive is accurate.

No concerns, I will reassess in thirty minutes. Is the Idrive typically precise? The vehicle has accumulated 200,000 kilometres, which raises my concern regarding the functionality of the sensor or a potential malfunction.

Furthermore, do not refuel your vehicle with oil immediately after it has been operated. Allow all oil to return to the sump for approximately 30 minutes, then fill to the maximum level. Performing this action immediately after using the engine sometimes leads to overfilling, as the maximum level may be reached while an additional 4 to 5 litres remain above the sump, yet to drain down.

As the vehicle operates, oil circulates to the upper engine components, including the turbocharger, resulting in a decrease in the sump level, where the dipstick is located. After around 30 minutes, the oil returns to the sump and registers a higher level on the dipstick. entirely typical

My Idrive indicates that my oil levels are three-quarters full, although the dipstick displays nearly empty when the engine is somewhat warm. When completely cold, the dipstick indicates around three-quarters full; nonetheless, the oil level is not as high as I would prefer. Is the Idrive trustworthy? Why is there no oil on the dipstick when the engine is slightly warm? I am apprehensive about overfilling, hence I find myself at a crossroads. Certainly, the IDrive will inform me if I am indeed running short. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

I cannot recall the size of the tips that fit over pipes when removing the old tips.

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I will determine if I can locate them.

Do you own images or a link for your 330d? Thank you very much

I intend to replace the original tailpipe trims with more aesthetically pleasing options, potentially featuring M emblems. My vehicle has twin tips, but they are not the 340i variants on either side, if that clarifies my intent.

I believe he refers to converting the exhaust from a single pipe with dual tips to dual pipes, one at each end of the vehicle, rather than merely replacing the tailpipes.

If you seek advice, visit AliExpress; I have procured two sets from there, one for my F31 330d and another for my M4.Additionally, my 640d, in fact.

I possess an F10 525d with a conventional exhaust and wish to modify it to the 535d type, including one exhaust tip on each end. There is an exhaust facility in the Wolverhampton/Walsall area that can either cut or replace the rear diffuser. I was quoted approximately £450, as I recall.

Hi has anyone changed the dual tips on an f30 with both tips on the N/S of the vehicle as apposed to the dual 340i tips? Where did you get them? My exhaust is 55mm without the tips? Many thanks

Years ago, I discovered a method on this site for changing the rear brakes, which always results in the parking brake being set to approximately three clicks. It was excessively elevated. The rear wheels do not engage the parking brake whatsoever. Continuously modify the star wheel adjuster within the drum till the rear wheel, with the shoes only in contact with the drum, rotates around 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 revolutions before coming to a halt. At this juncture, the parking brake typically requires approximately three clicks for optimal functionality, and I have never needed to modify it, provided the rear brake shoes are well maintained. Theoretically, I could neglect the parking brake setting, but I have never encountered a problem. Three clicks are acceptable; however, if six to nine clicks are effective, that is also satisfactory to me. I consistently utilise the parking brake.

I assume it is acceptable for the car to halt on an incline with 9 clicks? Perhaps I can further modify my position to avoid reaching the top limit.

The recommended number of clicks for a North American Corolla is:

I secured the star adjuster until the rotor was immobilised and then loosened it slightly. Attach the wheel and engage the handbrake to the fourth click, then manually rotate the wheel. I modified it till the fourth click secured the wheel, rendering it immovable by hand. This caused the brake shoes to excessively contact the rotors, inhibiting rotation by more than 25% of a full turn. It felt inappropriate, so I adjusted it more. The wheel operates more efficiently with a degree of resistance. However, the brake will not secure the wheel until the seventh click.

Indeed, it was modified.