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The response is much appreciated.Are there any potential answers?

They are both 271 Evo engines. While both engines have the same cubic capacity, the C180's higher compression ratio could cause it to overheat when subjected to the fuelling demands of the C250CGI ECU.

With a few obstacles, yes. While the m271 is functionally identical, an additional ecu or tuning of the existing one is required for safety reasons. Also included are all the necessary components from the 250 series, such as the turbo, accessory bits, and more. The only way to find out is to do it step-by-step through trial and error. Verify if the higher specification is required for certain sensors and fuel system components. The best course of action would be to talk to an MB techie or look up MB part numbers online so you can compare them. It was a real ordeal when I had to swap out the diesel TDI for the S line petrol specification; I was completely unsupported by the official documentation and had to handle the process alone. These days, service dealers have these service books on hand because everything is sold on webpages. Just so you know, my project is completely unrelated to what you are trying to accomplish. Here is my take on your current project, though. With more experience and insight, I'm sure other users here could help you out.

I am in possession of a 2010 Mercedes-Benz C250CGI whose engine has failed.Could I just swap in an engine from a 2010 C180 CGi? If so, would the engine have to be modified in any way? I would be very grateful for your opinion.

There will be a lot of fellow frugal people in the cheapest ones. 🙂

If I need a charger, I usually just search for CPS options; they're slow but close to facilities, and they're usually cheaper, but that's not really important. After that, I won't waste time fiddling with apps; I'll just check the Electroverse app for ones that use the card. On the other hand, I'm becoming even less picky about that with contactless these days.

You make a good point; I'll probably go with the more convenient option, but it annoys me that there's a £16 discrepancy between 95p and 55p for a 40kwh charge—and the TravelLodge is only £36! Take the instavolt chargers opposite the hotel as an example. They're 55p with their app, so I think that's a good idea. However, when I go to use them, I see that I need to change my debit card, which means they'll take £20 off my account. I'm not sure if I'll actually use it, and the only time I can get it is from 8pm, when the cheap rate starts, until 9pm, when the car park closes. The same issue with paying 92p according to our arrival time. Moving on a little, there are a few new Aeon chargers; the zap map indicates 74p, 24 hours. However, after doing some additional research, I have discovered that - 74p with zap-pay and 85p everywhere else. No way to go back to the hotel while it charges because leaving the parking lot will cost you £100.The list is endless!

With ease, I choose. When I do travel, it's usually for a vacation. Spending a few pounds here and there on charging pales in comparison to the expense of lodging, entertainment, and dining out. Most of the time, I'm using solar and off-peak power for my driving.

Because of the obstacles you mention, I don't usually go to extreme lengths to discover the cheapest option. I figure that if I can save 10–20p/mile for the majority of the year, I can afford to pay a little more for the convenience of taking the occasional road trip, just like people with ICE do at highway services.

It's worth attempting to save £1 per week on charging, in my opinion. However, attempting to save £20 annually is not worth the effort. Pick the one that's easiest for you.

They perfectly illustrate my point: various times, different locations, and different prices. Plus, for some inexplicable reason, they are never in the vicinity of my routes!

These days, if I'm planning a good excursion outside of my usual area, the first place I'll look for a charging station is a Tesla public charger. They're usually the quickest and cheapest, so it's a win-win situation.

I'd prefer it if someone could either validate my findings or point out where I'm mistaken, but I'm glad I did it because I'm getting ready for our annual trip and want to know where the cheapest chargers are near our overnight stop. We are not in a position to consider subscription suggestions, so please don't. There is no shortage of chargers, and speeds aren't an issue; the problem is, of course, the cost. In my opinion, the easiest charging session will likely cost you more than you bargained for. It seems like there are a lot of hurdles to jump through in order to compare convenience with cost, even after all these years: different prices in different apps, upfront costs to fund the app that you might never use, numerous providers with different terms and conditions, and parking lots that won't let you exit to use the restroom or do anything else.

Is there spark, assuming the fuel issue isn't the problem? The ignition circuit consists of relatively few components.

And I can confirm that I have completed both tasks. We just rebuilt the motor, and it still won't start even though the compression is fine.

I apologise if my information is outdated, but it seems like you have already replaced nearly everything that could electrically fix a "crank but no start" problem. Have you ever, for fun, attempted to start the engine by spraying it with starter fluid and seeing if it would run while you kept spraying it into the intake? Is the timing of this engine correct? Have you checked it with a compression test?

I hope it took the following form:

The signal from the camshaft sensor didn't. Crankshaft signal exhibits a substantially distinct pattern

Was this the way it appeared?

I checked the injectors and ignition coils just like you said. Occasionally, they will flash. Additionally, I connected an oscilloscope to the sensor for the crankshaft and camshaft. Both the AC signal and the DC signal from the crankshaft appeared to be in good shape. Following the engine rebuild, he changed out both sensors. We suspected the pcm was at blame because there was a signal going into it but no signal coming out; the voltage input was 12.5v. That means a pcm, a new camshaft and crankshaft sensor, and no fuel injector or ignition pulse.

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It seems like you're saying that the ECU isn't pulsing the injectors properly. Is this something you've confirmed with a noise test? I take it that you mean the engine is turning over, but won't start. Instead of hurling parts at the vehicle, attempt diagnosing it. First things first: check the wiring if you're saying the injector noise test doesn't work.