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What does "a lot of sense" refer to? The immigrant problem, benefit scroungers, why EVs are no good? You really ought to have figured out how the internet works by now; I'm not bothered either.

So, I'm not sure

Please include a description with any videos you upload to fascistbook; otherwise, many of us will not click on them.

For a long time now, this video has circulated.

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The way Rory Sutherland is speaking is really logical:)

Great thread!was correct when they suggested moving to the hub center method. Tire profile and pressure always cloud the rim-to-arch reading, so it's worth comparing your new numbers instead. Your comfort to sport drop appears to be about correct for these vehicles, if that helps. In Sport, Airmatic lowers the front end by around 20 mm and the rear end by about 10 mm on the X218; these dimensions correspond to your 670 to 650 and 640 to 630 measurements, respectively. Therefore, nothing there shouts that something is amiss. What would actually reassure me is that the two sides read the same, 670/670 and 640/640. When the level sensors show that the airmatic is at the desired height, the struts and accumulator are evenly holding the pressure, which is why symmetric readings are important. A worn strut or a leaking accumulator would have caused one corner to sit 15 or 20 mm lower than the other. Put your worries about it drooping to rest; it appears to be level on yours. A few things to keep in mind so that other people's measurements are fair. No one else in the car, same tyre pressures, about the same amount of gas and on a flat, level surface. The readings obtained after a run and those taken after parking for some time might be slightly different because Airmatic adjusts the ride height depending on the vehicle's position. Even with the steel front, Cherrypd, your husband's rear air figure will serve as a good stand-in for the OP's Comfort rear, as both rears will self-level to their respective targets. True to what the OP stated, fronts will clash.

That would be really useful, so thank you for that. While his front suspension won't be a direct comparison due to his standard steel setup instead of full AIRMATIC, his rear air suspension measurement would be highly helpful as it should sit at its normal self-leveling height, which is pretty close to my AIRMATIC in Comfort. Personally, I believe Can he, preferably on level ground, take a vertical measurement from the center of the Mercedes star/wheel hub to the wheel-arch lip? I would greatly appreciate it if he could. Regardless of the front ends' suspension configuration, the rest of the car would be fascinating to look at. Much obliged.

My husband possesses one of these, yet it lacks your Airmatic suspension and only features the air rear suspension. His vehicle resembles your photograph. Would his stature align with your comfort preferences? Inform me, and I shall contact him to retrieve the ruler...

If someone possessing an X218 full AIRMATIC (front and rear) could measure from the center of the Mercedes emblem/wheel hub vertically to the wheel arch lip, it would be greatly appreciated. Optimal readings would be those of Comfort and Sport.

Revision: I have now recalibrated using the superior centre-of-wheel-to-arch technique, ensuring that wheel/tyre dimensions do not influence the comparison. In Airmatic Sport mode on a flat surface, I receive: Front dimensions: 390 mm by 390 mm Back: 370mm / 370mm

I sincerely appreciate it. That is an excellent recommendation. It is logical for the purpose of comparison. I will request individuals to employ that technique instead, after I have obtained new measurements.

If individuals were instructed to measure from the center of the wheels to the arch (which is the standard practice in the industry), the specific wheel and tyre combination would be irrelevant.

Greetings everyone, could someone possessing a CLS X218 AMG Line equipped with the original 19” AMG wheels and complete AIRMATIC system provide a comparison of ride-height measurements with my vehicle? My vehicle is a 2017 CLS 350d Shooting Brake, featuring the original staggered 19-inch configuration: Front: 255/35 R19 Rear: 285/30 R19 Measured on a flat surface from the lower metallic edge (NOT from the base of the tire) of the alloy straight up to the wheel-arch lip: Comfort: Front 670 mm, Rear 640 mm Sport: Front 650 / 650 millimetres, Rear 630 / 630 millimetres If anyone possesses an identical wheel/tyre configuration, could you kindly assess yours in Comfort and Sport utilising the same technique and share the four measurements? I am especially curious if the measurements of approximately 670 mm in the front and 640 mm in the rear in Comfort mode are standard for the X218. I appreciate it!

The penultimate box located on the left side of the VIN label on the driver's side B-pillar. It constitutes a dual-character code. J3, UE, or G7 The extended paint code is JAYCWWA.

Indeed, it is located on the chassis plate. I believe it is the penultimate box.

Greetings, esteemed colleagues, I have explored all the recommended links on our website for the paint code, but they all appear to be outdated. I am in pursuit of that for the 2012 Mondeo Panther Black Metallic. I would be immensely grateful, as my vehicle was damaged by an individual who simply departed. What truly pains me is that I have possessed it for a decade, and until now, it was completely flawless. Is the code located on the vehicle at any point, as I am aware that BMWs (apologies for referencing this brand!) display it atop the suspension turret.

The auxiliary battery must also be depleted.

No battery can endure remaining depleted for such an extended period. Substitute it.

As previously stated on several occasions. OP, is there any indication of rodent presence or destruction? 👍

Are you acquainted with anyone possessing one of those highly beneficial jump packs? If not, those are indeed more economical than a new battery if purchased for future applications or resale. A depleted battery is the Achilles' heel of every contemporary Mercedes.

I have attempted using a different fully charged battery. However, it remains unchanged. I am uncertain whether using the small Skoda to jump it will be beneficial, but it may be worth attempting. Merely concerned about investing in a new battery if it is indicative of a more significant problem.

If the battery has been depleted for more than a year, a new battery will be necessary.

It is likely your battery; have you attempted to jump-start it?

Have you utilised a verified functional battery? Uncertain about the definition of a "full repair" concerning a battery? Having remained dormant for more than two years, the battery may lack the capacity to retain charge and deliver sufficient current. Merely indicating an acceptable voltage does not guarantee its proper functionality; a comprehensive load test is required.