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For a long time, Hyundai and Kia had the benefit of longer warranties. For a decade, we took care of any problems that arose. That was the major benefit. Eliminating it gave them the advantage back, but it was for naught. There have been too many drastic redesigns of the cars themselves. Consumables including oil, cabin air filters, and model-specific filters are model-and year-specific. All of them are unique, while some are cartridges and some are add-ons. Various even down to the wiper blades. From 2019 to 2021, my two Sorentos went through a wiper replacement. Because of this ongoing evolution, consumables are both scarce and costly. And then there are the modifications that prevent theft. My insurance company has threatened to cancel my coverage until I update my daughters' Seltos, and they have sent me at least four consecutive notifications about this. That causes the vehicle to be held at the dealership for one day every time. So far, my CX90 encounters have been much more consistent. Because it has been on the market for over a decade and is standard for most models, aftermarket oil filters are easy to get. For$120, I got a maintenance kit from the dealer that had new wiper blades, an oil filter with oil, and filters for the cabin and intake air. For Kia, the same parts are only available individually, necessitating visits to both the dealer and two other auto parts stores. It cost more than $300. Everyone else's Seltos was that. The age is starting to show on my 2019 Sorento. In your opinion, what will take its place? When it comes to snow handling, my criteria are whether it's possible to drive away from the curb after the ploughs have passed and how it manages to navigate streets with several snow drifts. Pretty much the same for all three. My apologies if this is completely irrelevant.

There are "issues" here, but there are also "issues" with H/K. For example, my neighbor's New Santa Fe (a copycat of the Defender) was in the shop for over 60 days.The length of time he spent in a loaner caught my eye. One of my favourite things about Mazda is how unique their designs are.Regardless of what H/K does, it always seems like they're copying someone else.

Hyundai and Kia are enormous wastes of space. Pretty on the outside and utter shit on the inside. You can always find dozens of replacement engines if you go behind one of their dealerships.

As predicted, the Hyundai came in dead last by a wide margin. This is a perfect illustration of how excellent the CX90 drive train is, which is interesting because so many people seem to have problems with it. One illustration of their overall engineering is seeing the pallisade AWD system struggle in snow.

I seriously doubt that Mazda is interested in a snow performance comparison with their stock tires, particularly for their PHEVs. Since it would have been more practical to compete head-to-head, I assume that most snow drivers already own a good pair of snow tires anyhow (based on what I've read here and elsewhere).

The tires on each of the three SUVs were unique.

All of them were riding on the same tyre.

These tires are designed for winter use and are not standard issue. Michelin Pilot Alpin 5: Hyundai Continent Icecontact Extreme: Infiniti Michialin X-Ice Snow: Mazda

The factory tires from each manufacturer provide a more realistic illustration, in my opinion. Even if it would be fascinating to use the identical tires, the outcomes wouldn't be practical for the average buyer.

I appreciate you showing the video. It would have been more accurate to test all three vehicles with the same winter tyre. Among the three, the CX-90 has the most attractive appearance. Those lengthy hoods and that far back cabin are my favourites.

Can you tell me the recommended voltage for the MAF pins?

In the fourth post, you were advised something.

Is anyone here?

Make sure to inspect the MAF wires as well as any potential boost leaks; a hose split can potentially be difficult to spot.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=air mass meter&campid=5338181132&customid=2518X1570512X2a6111db9945a93a3342184351d97aeb&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&subId2=15&toolid=10001

There is a problem with Air Mass Meter 1, P0101FA.

the most typical offender; increase leak? (I have no idea what P0214fA14627 signifies...)

P0101FA on a Mercedes-Benz W213 is giving me a hard time. The mass airflow meter and air filter have been changed, and the hfm values have been adjusted using Icarsoft v2.0. After reaching 2.5–3,000 rpm, the car continues to operate in what seems like a limp mode with limited power. Just like that, CEL disappeared for around three weeks, and the vehicle went into limp mode. I returned just now. The re-adaptation of the MAF (Hfm drift values xxxxx) caught my attention. At this time, all of the corrected values are zero. Is this the way it ought to be? In the absence of a limp or CEL, I recall that they were all about 10 years old. With a functional maf, shouldn't the correction values be set to 0%? Has anyone else encountered this problem?

you may expect to have to go into the nitty-gritty of things if your autos start acting up. No one will know what to do first as owners. And I intend to join their ranks.. Now you could even appreciate our presence on the forum, I believe. A Mercedes from 2006 or later would be perfectly OK. Good luck! Just make sure it's compatible with E10 before you run it.

The E5 is an excellent point.

My current W124 is the second one I've had; the first was a one-owner [cousin] vehicle. The quality of the W123 was superior to that of my W124.This E10 ethanol fuel deadline in September is another item to consider at this time. This is going to wreak havoc on all these older vehicles, including Mercedes. The injection system has a lot of rubber components, and some of them may deteriorate and break down over time.They often behave in this manner after prolonged usage of E5 gasoline. Modern rubber is much more durable than the kind of rubber used in the 1980s.

Distant since I am doing my quest in northeastern Scotland. By searching for "eBay classic cars," you may locate the Mercedes area. Simply enter your own postcode and peruse the available items. In due time, you will have the ability to glance and determine what is irrelevant to you. Then you may focus on the specifics. While you're at it, look for worn-out parts and compare prices and availability online; for example, headlights (which, by the way, corrode their reflectors). Some vehicles may seem expensive, but they may really be terrific deals; this will help paint a clearer picture of the situation. The W123 is a very simple automobile. You can own a decent automobile if you master the fundamentals.

From a distance, the automobile appeared decent. I suppose it would be beneficial for me to go automobile shopping in order to determine my own personal standards. Your point that I don't want a rusted automobile is valid. Taken a number of vintage automobiles there on many occasions! Working hard and filthy for little in return. Having to organise the mechanics is usually more appealing to me than structure. Best regards

Subject: I had complete faith in the mechanical integrity of a fifteen-year-old 200 automobile that had racked up 230,000 miles. The (subsequently-recommended) M102 engine's head gasket is its mechanical weak spot; nevertheless, this should not cause undue concern if the vehicle has not been subjected to excessive heat. Corrosion however is. In addition to the structural issues, they are known to rust the back panel behind the screen, which may be rather costly to fix. I came across a couple W123s when searching for "classic cars" on eBay. The one up there was the first that seemed realistic in terms of price, condition, and desirability. Some of the instructions available are in bad shape; I wouldn't recommend them. 'Hard' material seats and a tan interior are standard parts. Personally, I think the blue velour inside (devoid of the faux wood on the dashboard) is one of the most attractive features of the W123. The driver's seat often experiences bolt wear. The sunroof on mine rusted and let water into the footwells, so I really wish it hadn't. Before buying a vehicle, make sure the carpets are dry and steer clear of those with sunroofs unless you're really set on having one. Also, make sure the drain channels are clean. They are very well undersealed, which brings us back to the topic of corrosion (which is crucial on a W123). An issue arises when the underseal is compromised, since it causes water to be trapped beneath it, leading to excessive corrosion. Maybe it's OK to have one little space. When rust starts showing up everywhere, it's best to just walk away. I'm not sure I trust "full respray" vehicles since, even if they were in dire need of paint, there's no way to tell how well the paint job will be unless the seller is really trustworthy and the price is approaching £20,000. Getting replacement parts will inevitably become more difficult, so check out RockAuto's website. In addition to listing W123 (but not 230) parts, they have fair shipping prices for lighter products and are affordable overall. I don't think you really need a completely restored version of a vehicle with legendary dependability, especially because what you're want is probably available for less than £10k. Look around online and stay away from idling vehicles. If you begin at the lowest price point, you will quickly be able to discern what you need and what you can do without.