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Using a clay bar isn't the only option; there's also a much easier and more effective one. A microfibre detailing clay cloth and iron remover are all that's needed. While I like to utilise do-it-yourself detail supplies, you can save money by purchasing these options from Walmart: Meguires - Towel for Detailing Clay with Microfibre Surface and Iron Remover If the iron is embedded in the Clear Coat, washing the automobile will help remove it and prepare it for attacking the surface. Before lightly cleaning the car's surface, spray the stained area with waterless wash. Next, spray the rust spot with one spray of Iron Remover. Finally, spritz the clay cloth with one spray of Iron Remover. Just drag the towel over the surface without pressing down; the Iron Remover will do the rest. Scratches can be caused by rubbing or applying pressure with the towel. To remove brake dust and any other iron particles from a car, this approach is both easy and efficient. You may use this spot remover to the spaces behind the wheels and the wheels themselves when you've mastered eliminating this spot. The amount of brake dust and iron particles found on many automobiles' surfaces will astonish you. Every year when I detail my autos, I utilise this process, and the finish looks brand new again.

On top of that, I have a few at the front hoodline.

It may be rail dust, which is evident on white cars and is frequent with Mazda. To remove it, a clay bar is required. You now know the answer if it is compatible with clay.

There is a corrosion warranty on your vehicle. The distance is endless, but it's measured in years only; I've forgotten the name.

Removes stubborn stains.

Is rust really the only explanation? I don't see rust running onto the rubber and plastic; it seems like something else entirely. Find out if it comes off.

Greetings everyone! Under the lower weather stripping of the driver's side rear quarter panel window, I can see the first indications of rust on my 2924 PHEV Premium. Do you see any more symptoms like this? I'm worried it will become worse over time, even if it's not a big deal today.

Greetings everyone, I will get beneath it today or tomorrow; I haven't had the opportunity yet. That awful phone call happened on Friday night. That terrifying One. Things have been somewhat chaotic for the past several days since my brother-in-law discovered my brother's body at home. Once I've been under there, I'll upload images of what I find. Best regards

See the back subframe up close and personal while you're down there.

I was wondering if you have any news on this. Enquiring about the nature of the problem. I am grateful.

I will review the suggestions tomorrow and get back to you all with my findings.

A flexy prop shaft or joints?

It was the gearbox mount that gave me severe vibrations whether I was moving, stopped, or accelerated. As far as I am aware, they are not costly, and they are easy to replace. It would be wise to have the gearbox mount examined, albeit I cannot confirm the sounds. May it be of assistance.

I will do my best to explain this because my search on the boards has only turned up information regarding engine mounts, which I'm sure has nothing to do with what's going on here. The mileage on my 2012 C220 CDI AMG Sport, a W204, is 101,000. It cost me 79k when I got it four years ago. A clogged DPF, an injector that needed replacing, and a ruptured copper brake line in the back are just a few of the issues it has encountered. Everything is OK now, but ever since I got it, I've observed that the clutch pedal and gear knob tremble rather loudly if you really push the pedal to the floor and shift into the next gear. While this has happened a few times since ownership, the most recent occurrence was on the return trip after an 80-odd mile excursion a few weeks ago. The ride was completely uneventful, and the vibrations continued throughout the journey. It vibrates and makes a deep, metallic grinding sound at rest and throughout the rev range. The possibility that the flywheel has fallen was mentioned to me by someone. Really, all I'm asking is for some suggestions. With a young family and recently being laid off, money is tight and I don't know what to do. Is anyone else familiar with this? My first post here is a request for guidance, so please forgive me in advance. Thank you.

Is bimmercode capable of coding new headlights?

Unfortunately, that is only one of many uses for the dismal code.

When I used BimmerCode a few years ago, I believe I saw that option—something about US style marker lights or something like.

Bimmercode has a tonne of lighting choices, but I've never ever heard of that one. I will review it in a couple of days and get back to you, but someone could come in with the solution sooner.

https://www.bmwremapping.com/#:~:text=BW Auto Repairs Ltd provide,form to forward your details

In the Middlesex and Hayes areas, I suggest BMW Remapping. nonetheless, it is located in suburban London.

Hi, I was wondering if anyone in the SE London region knew of somebody who could code. I would prefer it if the front indicators stayed on when the daytime running lights were turned on. If I had a computer, I'd do it myself, but I don't. Alternately, would the bimmercode app and a Bluetooth obd adaptor be sufficient for this task?

I got a replacement sleeve and some Gum Gum because I cut it when removing the DPF. You won't even notice the weld. I suppose nobody will care about a well repaired exhaust system as long as the emissions are acceptable. The DPF's back is where the leak is. Also, I really doubt it's a knockoff. Since it was mostly used for highway travel (as an airport taxi), I assume it is still in fine shape. Even though it's not related to this subject, I'd still like to inspect the exhaust pressure hose.

An MoTer could reject it if it appears to have been tampered with. It may be beneficial to consult your partner for his thoughts about it. Does the DPF have that on the intake side? Because a lower differential pressure would result from that. It might lead to a highly unlikely interpretation, though. On my own, I would replace. However, you should inspect the DPF's tail pipe. I received two pairs of female and male items in my purchase. There is a female receiver on my back of the exhaust. Your V5 confirms that you have a Euro 5 vehicle, and your emissions plate details 0.1, so it must be. I purchased one in January from AutoDoc for £310.51; however, it did not fit, but it might have been adapted to suit.

If aesthetics aren't an issue, a standard mig welder blast should be enough to seal the joint.

After doing some reading, I would assume so. Mild steel probably wouldn't make it beneath the vehicle for so long. What happened to galvanised ubolt is also clear to me.