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I had a wish list and a list of items I didn't want when I bought my 2024 CX-30. A sunroof was absolutely not something I wanted. I never would have thought to use one, and living in the hot summers of southern Arizona, I assumed the sunroof seals would dry up, crack, and shrink with time, adding to the burden of having to replace them. That, I believe, reduced it to the 2.5S basic model and the Sport trim. The choice was further reduced to a 2.5S when I chose the 16" wheels/tires with somewhat higher sidewalls to mitigate some road bumps.

A 2000 Millenia was the first sunroof-equipped vehicle I ever purchased. For more than two decades, I drove it about with the sunroof open "some" of the time, but rarely. It was completely trouble-free for me. Sunroofs are standard on all three of my Mazdas at the moment. My 2006 Mazda3 is the eldest, and on sunny days I open the sunroof on a frequent basis, especially on the commute home from work. There has never been an issue; in fact, I have never given it any special attention in terms of upkeep. Because I couldn't care less about having a sunroof, I had planned to get a base model without one when I purchased my 2020 CX-30. Unfortunately, the top Premium model was the only one available in the colour I really liked—Polymetal Grey. I now have a second sunroof. From time to time, I've opened it without any problems. I just purchased a CX-50 with a sunroof. I have owned it since mid-December, but I haven't driven it 2,000 miles yet. I think I've opened it once. Oddly enough, the sliding panel seems to just lift up and slide outside beyond the fixed panel in the back. Its slanted position made me think of a spoiler. I don't really need a sunroof most of the time, but it does add some comfort and I've never had any issues with it.

The glass sunroof really opens up the cabin, giving the impression of more space and light.

Just like you, I opted out of a sun roof and saved even more money by purchasing a used '23.

I spotted two 2023 CX30 Preferred models that came with a sunroof credit, which means they are preferred packages without a sunroof, when I was shopping around for my new car in January of that year, during a parts scarcity.

Without regular maintenance to keep the tiny drainage holes free, sunroofs of any kind are just another potential source of unneeded trouble. You won't have to pay a considerable fortune to fix your car's interior once it is clogged from water that has been sitting in filthy or dusty conditions for a while (not to mention tiny leaves and other debris). I bought a 2022 CX-30 Carbon with the sunroof installed, but I despised it and never opened it more than once (and that was only to make sure it worked). According to what I've read, panoramic roofs in cars are much worse than regular sunroofs, yet many still adore them and think of them as "premium vehicles." 🤎 I opted for the 2026 Mazda3 Select-Sport sedan over the Preferred trim because of one feature: the absence of a sunroof. I was willing to forego the (in Arizona, worthless) heated seats and powered/memory drivers seat in exchange for this. Neither of those features is anything I long for.

Without one, please. It's going in the trash. I covered it with a Heatshield sunshade.

Salutations and salutations. My CX 30 is wonderful, however I'm the only one who doesn't want the preferred sunroof option. The sunroof was not an option for me when I purchased the sport. Or am I the only one who can do this? Some people just prefer

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You can see a lot of these autos. To hell with it, just walk away and keep searching.

Some mot testers can be a little off when it comes to warnings, so I would either check it myself or get someone else to do it. Due to the salt and road conditions, as well as the fact that they are the closest parts to the road and will inevitably take a hammering from stones and other debris, subframes will inevitably see surface rust.

The subframe failed on my 2016 Mercedes C207E400, and the vehicle was written off.Get out of here.Upon examination, my vehicle was cleared by a renowned expert.My vehicle's frame rusted within.

Shouldn't 2017 vehicles be unaffected? It could simply be surface rust, which is quite common. Unless it can be thoroughly examined, I think it's better to stay away from it.

I wouldn't buy that Mercedes unless they offered to fix it for free. Subframe rust on a 2017 car? What a shame!

As bad as it is in places you can see, it might be much worse in places you can't. Given the amount of trouble it would cause to fix if necessary, I would personally pass on it.

Salutations, I appreciate you providing that information. I am contemplating purchasing a 2017 CLS 220AMG Line Premium, but while reviewing the vehicle's MOT history, it indicates that there were advisories during the last inspection. My main issue is the subframe rust, which is not structurally unsafe. Other than that, it is a motor with a full MB service history and 49000 miles, and it has just one owner. I would greatly appreciate any input you have. My warmest regards Thank you.

Even if the payment goes through much before the due date, we still get a late payment reminder every month. Even now, I have stopped opening them. Sending them mail is costing Mazda a pretty penny. Countless customers call, worried that their payment didn't go through, according to the CSR. The grace time seems to be overlooked by the system.

I don't think I've ever gotten a notice to pay. Your message will be confirmed when it is scheduled and again when it is posted. Of course you can change the parameters for your email reminders.

Based on the subject lines of the following Mazda emails, I seem to receive a number of reminders by email for various reasons: approaching due date for payment the scheduled one-time payment for you a friendly reminder: the payment that is due is Your funds have been deposited. It does remind you to fasten your seatbelt, haha (albeit I would prefer it if it was sent via email so I can mark it as spam). These days, I prefer to stay with email for any kind of notifications or updates rather than text. Getting a message shoved in your face (if it were truly time-sensitive or vital) is wonderful and all, but it's too repetitive. Companies should only send a text message reminding customers that they have till the final possible day to make a payment in order to avoid late fees. You'll get a dozen reminders from doctors' offices, even if you've already confirmed; UPS wants to text you every time your shipment moves three feet across the nation, etc. A red message indicating a payment was needed appeared in my app, presumably from AMEX. It was merely a standard reminder, according to the representative I spoke with; I am never late, have great credit, and was not late with it. They treat us like we're perpetually overdrawn, past due, or late because of these constant, obnoxious reminders. An endless procession. Regulators are probably to blame for some of it. /rant

Mazda sends me four or five reminders to pay every month. I have an excellent credit history and have never been late. A few of emails and two or three texts serve as reminders for me. I paid on the first, but I was late because it was a holiday weekend and because the app asked me to pay twice. I received one or two notifications about the late payment. Their seatbelt reminders and Mazda payment reminders must have been done by the same person.

I had never had DDE done before, but I merely saw an ad for it on eBay when I had CAS copied.

Unfortunately, I did not have much time to investigate the problems today. I was given forty minutes. Very strangely, I spent the majority of that time attempting to identify continuity on K-CAN [Green and Orange Green twisted pairs], yet all of my attempts appeared to be open circuit. Finally, I went ahead and purchased a set of four things on eBay: CAS, DDE, Key, and Instruments. Expected arrival dates are Wednesday through Friday. I will attempt additional continuity checks when I have the time, but this week is really hectic. No visible indicators of damage were found when checking the CAS. I removed the screws from the DDE, but I was unable to remove the cover. Fearing harm, I replaced the screws. After cloning, it should function properly since DDE solely relies on the CAS for handshake and start enabling signals. I was wondering if anyone might suggest a cloning company.

Changing blades is a simple task. It is not necessary to change keys when cloning CAS. I sent both the original and replacement CAS off, and they simply copied the data over. After cloning, DDE, I thought it would be as easy as plugging it in.

Please tell me that the lock does not contain any coding information in the event that I decide to proceed with the CAS/DDE swap out/clone method. Thank you. Instead of changing the locks on the doors and glovebox, I could just use the manual blade key and insert it into the donor set's keychain.

When my f11 started loosing voltage at the terminals a few years ago, I thought it might be a cas problem. As a result, the sensor voltage codes were all low, and the crank wouldn't start. By connecting multiple power sources to the DDE via the JBE module, the CAS enables starting after the immobiliser is checked. Although I am not sure, I would think that there would be codes that indicate CAS has dropped. It could be wise to prepare the circuit diagrams and verify the terminal voltages of the power supply from CAS and JBE before proceeding with the control unit replacement and cloning. People with the right software can fix mileage issues if you do need to replace pieces.