All Activity

Low compression in two neighboring cylinders is a telltale sign of a blown head gasket, which is typically located at the narrowest point and can be detected using a compression test. When the engine is turned off, a pressure gauge attached to the cooling system will reveal whether or not the system keeps the pressure. In the event that it doesn't, a leak may be present, potentially affecting the cylinder head. To gauge the internal pressure, squeeze the top hose of the radiator. To release the pressure, take the radiator cap off (with the engine turned off), replace it, start the engine, and rev it up. The head gasket has blown if the pressure is built up too rapidly; normally, it should do so gently as the engine warms up. The gadget can detect exhaust gases in the cooling system if you bring the vehicle to a MOT testing site and request that an exhaust gas analyzer be lowered into the expansion bottle, but above the coolant level.

Salutations everyone, Someone plz assist me. There is oil in the radiator expansion tank of my 2010 S212 E250CDI with 106k miles. When I checked the levels two weeks ago in preparation for my vacation, it most certainly did not. I saw the coolant level alert when I started it up for the first time, and when I looked closer, I saw that it was completely filled with oil. If the oil was the cause of the low coolant level warning, then it had only occurred on the most recent trip. I had it hauled to the garage since I assumed it was an oil cooler, and they confirmed my suspicions. After beginning to disassemble the components, they discovered that the engine oil was devoid of water, but even more perplexingly, there was no oil in the water tubes around the oil cooler. According to their findings, the oil cooler isn't the culprit. Since I've only had the vehicle for a year, the mechanics who came to inspect it noted that the oil cooler seemed to be relatively new. So far, they have concluded that the oil cooler is not to blame because neither the oil nor the water in the pipes surrounding it contain any oil. When they removed the oil from the line that went to the top of the expansion tank—the Bleed line, if you will, according to the drawing that is attached and labeled '250'—a small quantity of oil remained at the end where it connected to the top of the radiator. Instead of entering through it, the oil could have drained back down there if the level had been higher. Because of this, we still have no idea how the oil got here. Oil in the expansion tank has led them to speculate that it may be transmission oil, a theory with which I disagree. The oil is dark in color, has no emulsion, and flows freely. I would be amazed to see ATF oil that appears healthy and jet black, even when I account for the fact that it darkens with age. They think the gearbox oil cooler in the radiator has cracked, but I'm not convinced by the jet black color and would value your opinion. We are now investigating the matter and have temporarily halted the process. The oil cooler can't be the only possible culprit. Possible choices: Head gasket: I'm not sure, because the expansion tank has an excessive amount of oil. The tank had been filled to the top of the screwcap. Furthermore, there was absolutely no milkiness or emulsion, leading me to believe that it probably is. It ran well as I drove it into the retrieval vehicle, and there was no smoke of any kind. Is there gearbox oil that looks like that? I don't think so, because it was clean and black when I changed it a few months ago. Six months ago, during an autobox service, the gearbox oil was changed. Is the ATF still behind it? Is it feasible for a cracked block to let the passage of oil into a water jacket but not the flow of water into oil? Could there be any other possible reasons? The mechanics have temporarily halted the process because they haven't figured out how to get to the oil cooler—which means the car isn't completely disassembled—but they still have a couple of hours to go before it can be run again. How can we verify that the gearbox oil is free of contaminants? Unfortunately, we are unable to access the gearbox fluid to assess its condition because the unit is sealed for life and does not appear to have a sump drain or an accessible filler. Can the filled-in pipe be lowered in any way? Is it possible for the black oil in the expansion tank to be ATF? Do you have any ideas on how we might focus our inquiry to find out what's causing this? Any advice you could provide me would be greatly appreciated. The mechanic is confused and first recommended a top end rebuild before recommending a new gearbox as a remedy. Therefore, I also believe they are unaware of this. I would greatly appreciate any assistance you can provide.

Feeling relieved that it was successful

What a blessing you are. The first time around, it was a breeze. Your patience and support have meant the world to me. Enjoy the rest of your day!

https://www.startmycar.com/gb/kia/sportage/info/fusebox/2024

Connected directly to the body, my components are on fuse 6, which is for accessories, and fuse 9, which is for battery positive. Used the companion app to adjust my dashcam's parameters.

Okay, I understand. Contrary to yours, my vantrue dash cam and hardwire kit has a yellow acc and a red battery (b+).

I will snap a picture of my wiring after Mrs. returns from taking the car. A hardwire kit was purchased for my gku dashcam. My battery's positive terminal is yellow, and the red wire is an accessory.

The fuse layout design is attached; however, could you please specify the locations on the diagram you are utilising for acc and b+? I will disable parking mode after hearing your story and because I experienced a similar issue with another camera. The dealer replaced the battery once I convinced them to do so, but I had always assumed that parking mode was to blame.

One of the spare fuses is an accessory that turns on just when the engine is turned on, and I utilised the other spare, which is a permanent 12-volt, to power everything. I haven't had any issues with the battery warning since I changed mine from 24-hour recording to recording only when the car is hit.

One of the spare fuses is an accessory that turns on just when the engine is turned on, and I utilised the other spare, which is a permanent 12-volt, to power everything.

Hi, I'm sure someone has already answered this, but I can't seem to locate a thread that specifies which fuses my DashCam needs. My dash cam won't turn off, and parking mode is disabled, so I began by adjusting the battery and multimedia settings for acc. People have used different fuse placements. For your information, I have included a copy of the fuse box layout.

The problem is:If a bush is "excessively worn" (Category 5.3.4.a.i) or if there are substantial fluid leakage that could cause harm to people or the environment, it is classified as a major defect. I don't think it is; I think it will be an advisory. I've been informed that there is no bleeding, play, or excessive fluid leakage. Over time, I will discover the answer...

In my opinion, it's a bust.... From the suspension section of the guidebook. A major defect (failure) exists when the bush actively drips oil or fluid, becomes extensively covered, or has compromised damping or structural performance. Potential Hazard: These bushes are engineered to dampen vibrations and are frequently loaded with hydraulic oil. The stability, control, and handling of the vehicle might be compromised if they malfunction. An advise may be issued instead of an immediate fail in the event that the bush is just slightly wet or has small residue (a "mist" or light weep) but is not excessively covered in oil, as long as the component is still functional.

So far, nothing has been done for me. Wayne Gates just completed the service and inspection on the vehicle, and they noticed the problem. Two months from now is when the MoT test is due, so I will put it in and see if it passes then. Assuming the bush rubber is in good shape and does not have any play, it should pass the MoT Tester's Manual. In that case, I suppose it's time to give it a little TLC...

I would follow your lead.

Car number 164 is an ML63 AMG. Even though there is no play in either of them, the hydro-bushes in the back of the vehicle are leaking from the front and rear of the vehicle. These suspension arms are same across the board on the W164s; however, the AMG models are the only ones with hydro-bushes, while the rest of the models utilise solid rubber or metal components, meaning that an arm from a different version will fit on the 63. The arm is fastened to the bush and mounting casting using a single big bolt that passes through the center. If your vehicle isn't an AMG, you can easily find aftermarket replacement bushes from a number of manufacturers. One option is an exceptionally affordable Chinese set that includes all the bushes for both arms, but I'm not interested in that. Autodoc sells two for £150, however I haven't compared the reviews of Ridex, Esen, Metzger, Sidem, RTS, ALTE, or Spidan to determine which brand is better. Also, I haven't looked into how much a pair from Mercedes would cost. Unfortunately, MB does not sell only the bushes, and no aftermarket vendor offers them, perhaps because to the low production numbers of AMGs. Therefore, a set of new arms is the sole option for replacement; £1300 to you, squire (I'm not sure whether that amount includes VAT...). :oops: :oops: Just a couple of the regular, non-AMG bushes would have sufficed; I don't see how hydro- or solid-rubber would have made much of a difference in such a tiny bush. Who here thinks this is a poor plan?

The person who posted the question clearly does not appear to have much expertise car-spanking, but I love it when they complete a major task like this. So, nicely done!

Quite a bargain! There is no way to "over research" anything like this, in my opinion. 🤎 Perhaps I stand out to many, but before beginning any activity, no matter how simple, I conduct extensive research. Those who aren't aware of the gaskets will also benefit from knowing about them. Having a significant savings is the cherry on top, once again.

I may have done a little too much research on this one, but it was well worth it! No one ever says this, but you have to change the gaskets every time you remove the throttle valve and the pipes that go with it. It is important to keep this in mind before beginning. Warning: I spent approximately 8.5 hours on the project (not counting the time spent on the water pump). Even while it's not great for a first-timer, it's better than paying the €2.2k that Mercedes asked for the identical job! 😅

Even though you were already investigating, the name SPR Autos popped into my head as I read your message. You did an excellent job! A significant reduction in expenses makes it even better.

Great work and congratulations!

I Achieved It, Yeah! This is the Worst Job Ever! At last got around to doing it, and holy cow, was I a swine! There are two points that are consistently overlooked: The housing for the fuel filter: the new authentic Mercedes component differs from the initial. For a long, I didn't know what to do with a few more mounting points here and a few missing ones there. Despite my best efforts, I was informed by the local dealer that it is now a "one-part-fits-all" setup. 🤦‍♂️

Money vs. time I'm reasonably handy and have everything I need, but I'm struggling to decide: Approximately how long will it take from beginning to end? Compared to simply paying a nearby garage (around €72/hr here)” I'm interested in hearing about actual completion times, tips, any problems encountered by anyone who has installed the oil cooler housing and/or water pump on the OM651. Thank you ahead of time!