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It seems like a lot of effort was put into it in that regard.

Nowadays, it's very easy, but it's still a hassle that leaves you with a car that doesn't have much worth when you sell it. So, it's best to leave it to professional importers. They have people who can locate autos and arrange for container shipment, etc. The Japanese take excellent care of their right-hand drive (RHD) luxury cars, servicing and maintaining them to a high standard. They also don't have the rust problems that we have here. At Kings Langley, you may find not only Edward Hall but also Seymour. Bramley is famous for catering to the "Surrey crowd" with pricey, ostentatious equipment. But in order to keep the company afloat, they had to accept a larger-than-usual margin. However, it is an intriguing vehicle that might entice those who have fond recollections of the S124 from their youth as "the family hack."

The fact that Edward Hall (who had previously supplied the automobile in this thread at the top) does this frequently suggests that he must have strong contacts for getting the greatest cars; nonetheless, I was not implying that. Even though petrol 212 estates aren't particularly widespread in Japan, they import a good number of them. The UK and Europe, I believe, were mostly purchasing diesel, while Japan bought relatively few. 🙂

When importing from Japan, how simple is it?

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These days, I'd say rust is the main issue with 124s. If you're looking for a good one, you might be interested to know that they now import a couple from Japan.

They should probably spend some time in the engine compartment if they're going to make a tonne of money.

As usual, if it sells at that price, then that's its worth. However, for that amount, you can have some very significant Mercedes with far more intriguing engines.

I had guessed 25/30 before I ever saw the ad.

https://www.bramley.com/stock/1996-mercedes-benz-e320-estate/14075

Great automobile in great shape.

With my autos, I stick to the 6-or 12-month warranty. Despite only having 890 miles between their mot, one of them still managed to get an oil change, haha. It is currently sitting on the shelf and will do less business this year until I do something about it.

I tested the head gasket and it looks to be fine, however the piston rings appear to be a little loose since the engine is producing a little blue smoke. Other than the neutral to first synchro failing, so I can only get into first if I downshift, everything appears relatively okay, however the corrosion on the back sills is a bit of a worry. I am not going to change as it is very difficult to get a replacement GB. Overall, it seems like the two I'm observing have been well-kept. They are both spotless vehicles. Both of them have also undergone procedures. Some suggest 60–80,000, while BMW says never since it's "sealed for life." Someone changed the oil and filter in the gearbox of that one. You make a good point there as well. If it's symmetrical, I always say replace both of them. That one apparently had its back suspension (on both sides) changed, so I'll have to give it a further inspection. The fear of receiving a dud is probably all it is. Looking at the MOT report for one of them, I believe I saw that it had a single bulb failure. Like the n57, do the m57 chains rattle and exhibit slack when cold started? Regardless, I suppose it's worth checking, because I believe they've both had chains done as well. Beyond the usual things you'd look at in a regular automobile, is there anything else I should inspect carefully?

This automobile is at least 19 years old, so naturally, it will have its fair share of problems. The most important thing is to consider the previous owners and how well they took care of the vehicle. unless they managed it with very few resources. These two things are common in older vehicles.On the one hand, you may be quite conscientious and on the other hand completely careless. Look for gearbox service, differential service, etc. Those are the things I look for. On the flip side, if a coil spring cracked, did they change one or two, or all four? And so on.

I've read a number of articles on it. According to BMW, changing the oil every 20,000 miles is preferable than not changing it at all. So I tell myself. It would be replaced without delay in my opinion. And I highly recommend sticking to a 6-8k interval. It's frustrating that they couldn't find another approach to convince fleet purchasers 😞

Coming up on two hundred thousand miles, my 2002 E53 X5 powered by an M57 engine is still going strong. If you're looking for evidence of excessive oil and filter changes, a full BMW service is probably not the way to go. Just to entice fleet purchasers with the promise of reduced service costs over time, BMW claims 20,000 miles or two years, which is bad for the engine.

Regarding my desires, interests, and preferences in vehicles, I must admit that my past is a little of a mystery. Things changed, I was no longer involved, prices plummeted, I became quite broke, Elon went crazy, and I learned to prefer estates, but I almost bought an electric vehicle as a BIK business car. Then I became enamoured with the Octavia VRS 2020+. Beautiful vehicle, but the price tag was too high, and I kept wanting more power. It was difficult for me to let go of the desire for a Skoda dad vehicle after having an incredible experience driving a fully equipped 4WD Superb in the Arctic Circle two years ago. If I had infinite funds, I would still choose a C8 RS6 before any other car, sorry, but I've never been a big fan of BMW and have always considered myself more of an Audi man. The 320D–335D 3 Series Estates, meanwhile, had a certain allure for me. I don't know what it was, but the n57's engine problems, especially the spinning bearings, really freaked me out. To the point that I've turned a blind eye. According to what I've read, the m57 is a tank—very sturdy and resilient. That, I suppose, is what drew me to the 535Ds. They look like a great value, and they're strong and versatile enough to handle most situations. Similar to a maris piper. Make full use of it! In my previous position, I was typically putting 100-600 miles on the m4 or m5 every week, so I'm no stranger to highway driving. Currently, my weekly output is usually closer to 100. In the next few months, I intend to increase my weekly mileage to between 250 and 350 miles. This is when things become tough. I'd want to stay within my budget, so I won't spend a fortune. If it's not crazy for a 530-535D M57, I'd like to pay somewhere around $10,000. "If you can find one that looks good, at least has a fsh and is around 100,000 miles, you should be doing good," my brain assures me, and I'm starting to believe it. However, my knowledge of BMW engines is limited. I'd prefer to have it running and not sitting in a garage full of expensive BMW components, even though I've changed the belt and done some other light maintenance on a 1.6TDCI. Apparently they have a problem with the turbo, glow plugs need to be changed, and the rear air suspension compressor can be a bit of a joke. I've seen a couple on the market, but I have no idea what to look for beyond the essentials, like a timing chain that has been done, oil, gearbox oil and any necessary repairs. Inspect the tires for smoke during cold starts, uneven wear, brand, and tread depth. Will rusting occur on these? What I mean is, would you recommend these guys for £100 to cure your back pain or other structural issues? If I were thinking about it, would it be a good idea to have a BMW expert have a look at the car? Although I'm originally from Bristol, I've seen a couple for sale throughout the nation, including one in the Bournemouth/Southampton area (Sea = rust) and another close to Oxford. Could you suggest some guys from those locations to have a look? I aim to get as much knowledge as possible since I enjoy delving into things. Oh my, that's just a bunch of irrelevant details. Apologies if I lost you at RS6, but I appreciate you taking the time to read this.

Your assistance in determining the proper tyre pressure for my 2019 E-Class Cabriolet A238 E220d 19 Plate is greatly appreciated. I am quite grateful for your assistance in settling this issue. Much obliged.

https://www.continental-tires.com/products/bicycle/

Choosing a pressure level in the middle of the suggested and maximum range is typically what we suggest. Never fill a tyre to more than the maximum pressure warning written on the side. Start with a little more pressure than advised, and if the ride quality is compromised, you can lower the pressure. It's better to err on the side of caution. Get in touch with an EPC specialist if you suffer from obsessive-compulsive disorder; they will be able to inform you which sticker is right for your vehicle identification number (VIN). Additionally, I recommend ordering the sticker from MB once you get the right P/N.

I have 20-inch wheels and Airmatic suspension. I think it would have ridden better on the 19s, so I would have gone with those instead.

Excellent guidance.

When transporting four people or more, the distinction solely applies to the back tires. I would recommend starting at 39 and seeing how you do; if you feel the need to modify upwards, you can always go to the other chart that contains 42. I usually leave the psi constant on my W213 20s, even though the suggested pressure is 35, since I seldom have a full load and don't want to bother changing it and because I haven't seen any negative effects. However, I did read that you should increase it by 2 psi.

Sadly, it's not only a sticker with the stresses watered down.

You could also find the right information in the handbook.