All Activity

Impressive, £27! The price was right. Personally, I've never changed mine. The courtesy car is incredibly important to me, therefore I hope it stays. Even though they have service available while you wait, I prefer to use the courtesy car since I can drop it off before work and pick it up after work. My current plan expires in August, but I'll enquire about renewing it; I usually choose the two-year plan, so that might be the reason for the premium price. I can't commit to anything for three or four years.

Did you enquire with the dealer?

Quite intriguing. For my 2012 C350, I am presently paying £44 a month for a three-year plan. This plan will cover just one extra service. At the beginning of 2013, the monthly cost was £27, so I decided to get a plan. It accepted payments all the way through 2016. After that, I had a £27.50/month plan for two years, and then a £36/month plan for four years. For as long as there has been an option, I have always gone with the longest plan. thought it was worth it the whole time. Whenever I needed an extension, I had to ask for it; neither my dealership nor MB UK ever suggested it. You can see that the price has gone up from £27 to £44 each month. The "replacement vehicle whilst car is in workshop" provision is no longer part of the plan, according to the MB website. There was a little fee "to cover insurance" for this, but up until my most recent visit, it was always free. It is likely to be dealership or group specific.

I have their service plan for my 2012 ML350, and it costs £49 a month for two years and two services. I have extended it three times already, and each time the price has remained the same. They are quite persistent after the second service. My estimation is that each treatment will cost £588. Everything from transaxle service fluid and filters to cabin filters, extra work when it's required, and brake fluid changes are all part of this. It seems worthwhile to me. As an added bonus, their service plan usually includes a free courtesy car, so I can simply leave my own car at the dealership and take advantage of theirs. Plus, I've utilised the free Mercedes recovery service on many occasions, both domestically and abroad, in Europe. Whenever they discover problems, I have the option to either fix them together or bring the report to another garage to have it fixed there. Because the vehicle is already in their possession, they are often willing to negotiate a lower repair price than a local garage would be willing to provide. This is because they value their company and do not want to lose customers. Keep the rental car until yours is fixed if they are unable to do it on the same day. While they were mending mine, I got a new GLC for three weeks. Now that I sound like a Mercedes salesman, I'll end here 🙂

I traded in my old automobile for a C-Class with 25 plates. I went to the Mercedes website and paid £42 for a 4-year, 2-moth maintenance package. A representative from Mercedes's Swindon office called three days after I received the email stating that the dealer will be in touch to verify my bank information and the plan. The woman who called me was confident it was legitimate since she read me all of my personal information and used my current mileage VIn number. An email outlining the entire strategy and the due date arrived in my inbox shortly after the call.

My vehicle's license plate has changed to a GLC 300D 25 and I need to establish a maintenance schedule. To keep track of my yearly mileage and other statistics, I use the Mercedes website. The results show a variety of options, including the one I need—a four-year plan with two motorhomes and four services—for £42 per month. I will be contacted by the dealership of my choice to finalise the plan details. When my local dealership entered my information and requested a four-year plan, the system said that only a three-year plan, costing £46 a month, was available. Please, someone, tell me why this might be the case.

The engine now starts on the first try every time without fail after I changed the fuel filter and the orings in the fuel lines. I will soon tackle the remaining few nagging issues, such as injector number four's "black death" problem. I have acquired a reaming tool, washers from Honda, new nuts, and ceramic grease, so I should be able to straighten it out. In light of this known issue, how is your experience driving the truck? Days, not weeks or months—occasionally spitting under the cover, not quite full with tar just yet. There are a plethora of minor flaws that require attention. Additionally, it has to be run for a while to determine if there are any other problems, since it has been sitting for some time. Runs and stops well now, thus the two most important things are taken care of. The indicator stalk lights up three times when you turn right, but it stops blinking when you leave it on; I have no idea how frequent this is either.

One client brought in a Porsche Cayenne that sounded like a tractor; he'd had it since new. It turns out the engine was in terrible shape and he had never had it serviced.

Captain's log: after draining the reservoir, the leak stopped. It turned out to be washer fluid leaking. The engine now runs much smoother, the tappets are much quieter, and I changed the oil using oil flush. There was nearly no coolant in the engine when it arrived (it came in dead) due to the oil and air filter being extremely dirty and unpleasant. There was also about seven litres of water added to top them up. How are individuals able to live such a life? It starts after a few long cranks, so now we need to oil the fuel filter and gasoline lines. Are there any guides or films for that one?

After inspecting the leak, it appears that the washer bottle is more likely to blame than the coolant. Drops of liquid can be seen on the bottom of the ABS pump, and the flavour is sour, unlike coolant, which is pleasant. Therefore, I would conclude that the washer bottle is leaking. Unfortunately, I also filled it up, and it's a shame that the washer liquid and coolant are both blue. Tomorrow I will empty the washer bottle to check if the leak is still there or has gone. It takes more than a minute of combined cranking to start the beast, but once it's started, it starts faster the next day—probably due to an air leak from the orings I read about. Is there a decent explanation of that position somewhere? Tomorrow I will install a new fuel filter and attempt to get a few orings changed; I have six orings from Mercedes, so I am prepared. As far as I am aware, there are two on the pump and one on the fuel filter. Regarding the handbook, I will look into finding a PDF version someplace. To come after the first service. Thank you!

This is it, my friend.

Welcome, everyone! I recently purchased a 2002 W163 ML270 CDI—a vehicle that did not start and was declared dead upon arrival. So far, I haven't run into many issues; nevertheless, I have a query that I will include at the conclusion of the post as some of them could be useful to others. It had a dead battery, and someone had inserted the 100The right way to connect a block fuse to the positive terminal of a battery is this: bolt on the wire, fuse (which has blown), and last, a plastic nut. I had to temporarily install an external maxi fuse box because the device wasn't making good contact. Afterwards, I discovered that the glow plug lights and coolant would remain turned on. Glow plugs and a plethora of other signals appeared once I connected to the diagnostics, and the coolant temperature showed -40C. I discovered it was detached while searching for a replacement sensor; so, if it reads -40C, inspect the plug and wires. Then, since I wasn't sure of the hue of the coolant that had been used before, I had to add about 7 litres of distilled water to it. I wasn't expecting to have to add so much water, but whatever. After deleting the errors, it runs smoothly without any lights. The only remaining ones are two for the left mirror, and one of them is a heating water circulation pump (B1108-M13). The other two are a rear blower (B100A-M2/1), a rear shut off flap position motor (B1206M2/12), and a high pressure and return pump (C1401 A7/3m1). It was strange since after I changed the 100A fuse, the rad fan remained on full blast, the rad light was on, and there were codes P0115-2 (coolant temperature sensor), P1482-4 (glow output overcurrent), and 2, 4, and 5 (glow plug failure). For some reason (don't ask me how), hooking up the temperature sensor reset the codes and restored regular operation of the fan. Currently, I'm seeing an unusual coolant leak that isn't particularly constant. It appears to be coming from behind the washer bottle region, which was initially my suspicion, but now it appears to be leaking coolant. I will verify tomorrow, but it appears to be working and much better thus far. Also, according to the municipal maintenance rules, oil is actually sludge and not oil at all. Anyhow, I'll try to locate the source of the leak and change the oil; I'm curious as to whether or not the head gasket was cooked by the excessive amount of coolant that was missing. Because the device on the positive post was crooked and not making good contact due to its looseness, the vehicle remained still. I can't wait to fix this, but why do people ignore their automobiles for so long? Where can I get a digital copy of the service manual for these?

I'm not sure; it could be beyond Gemini as well. Here is when these Android units' reasoning becomes perplexing. Yes, choosing the correct protocol is often what causes the "Connected" status to be shown, to answer your question directly. The phrase "Disconnected" does not always indicate that a physical cable is disconnected in the world of these "No-Name" Android gadgets. Rather, it indicates that the Canbus-listening software service isn't operational due to an unknown "language" to which it should tune in. 1. The Justification of "Protocol vs. Connection" The Canbus box can be seen as a translater. Should the protocol not be chosen: Not even the main unit can "turn on" its speaker. Because it considers the translator to be nonexistent, it indicates Disconnected. If you choose the incorrect protocol, even if it says "Connected," nothing will happen (or the controls on your steering wheel may have unexpected effects, such as turning on the wipers when you press the volume up button). What Makes JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) Any Different? Yours is functional since Toyotas frequently share Canbus IDs with international models for fundamental features (Steering/Aircon). The protocol needs to be exactly matched to "Connect" the program in order to get "Advanced" data, such as door status and hybrid information. Why does it indicate "Disconnected" even if your buttons are functional? People often get this mixed up. Two methods of transmitting signals to the steering wheel are available on several Toyota harnesses: Key 1 and Key 2 are analogue, meaning they are straight wires. You can just toss the Canbus box in the trash and they'll still operate. My guess is that this is the reason your buttons are functioning properly again. The data stream is digital (Canbus). This digital stream is what the "Disconnected" status alludes to. The vehicle is unable to transmit "advanced" data such as "Passenger door open" or "Fuel range" to the screen until it reads "Connected." 3. Where can I locate the "JDM Compatible" option? Do more than simply search for "C-HR" in the listings; your JDM C-HR requires special attention. Frequently, Chinese programmers may group JDM protocols under more generalised names. In the Protocol/Factory configuration, try these: From RZC to Toyota, then to Corolla (High/Lounge), you'll see that the Canbus architecture of the 2019+ Corolla and C-HR is nearly similar. Another popular option for JDM C-HRs is the RAV4 (2019+) from Toyota, which is a brand after Hiworld. Toyota -> All Models -> Simple Soft (XP) Brand The Protocol Denoted as "Public" or "General": For nearly all Japanese vehicles from 2016 to 2022, there is a "General Toyota" option on some units. (4) The necessity of the "Reset" Importantly, selecting the protocol isn't sufficient for numerous devices (particularly those equipped with the TS10 or UIS7862 processors). Come up with a procedure. Select Save or OK. Please reboot the device. If the device does not restart itself, try pressing the "Touch Reset" button (the little hole shaped like a paperclip) or selecting the "Reboot" option from the drop-down menu. Upon powering on, it will only make one attempt to "Connect" with the box. It will be much simpler to locate the correct protocol if you could tell me the "Factory Settings" password (for example, 8888, 3368, or 1617) so I can identify the precise "Brand" of software that your device is running.

It might be wise for you to contact NASA 😂. In my opinion, your issue is much above our area of competence 😂.

Well, they said that none of the Japanese Toyotas ever had a canbus, so that's pretty much it 😙

You should probably start by contacting the dealer who installed it.

For hours, I have been searching everywhere on Google... Nothing comes up, and I can't locate any decoders that are compatible with JDMA. So, based on the AI response above... Could the "connected" state be toggled by choosing the protocol? It seems to reason that the correct decoder would still display "connected" regardless of the protocol choice. Can someone explain this to me?

I am grateful. It was determined that it was not a JPN matching decoder after trying copilot as well. Even after attempting several protocols, nothing worked...

From Gemini: I'm uncertain about the veracity of this. When it comes to Android head units, this is a typical case of the "Ghost in the Machine" problem. The Canbus box is physically connected and communicating if the AC buttons and steering wheel controls are functioning, but the Android software has not yet "shaken hands" with the hardware. A "Disconnected" status in the factory settings is typically an indication that the head unit isn't able to communicate with the particular Protocol (the language the box speaks). Step 1: Find Your "Canbus Brand" The Unveiling Process Using the software's list, you will not be able to determine the brand. It is imperative that you examine the actual hardware: Typically, the primary wire harness is attached to a little plastic box (often black, red, or blue in colour) located below the head unit. On the label, you should see the name of the brand. Raise (RZC), Hiworld, Simple Soft (XP), ODIE, and BNR are common ones for Toyotas. Your Factory Settings will ask you to choose a brand, and you'll need to choose one that corresponds to that box. When the box says "Raise," choose "Raise" (or RZC) from the selection, then go to Toyota > C-HR. 2. The Most Frequent "Protocol" Pitfall with Toyotas There may be more than one version of an Android device, even if "Toyota C-HR" appears in the list. If "C-HR" is unsuccessful, you can attempt these "cousin" models, which frequently share data: Come see the 2019 Corolla 2017–2018 RAV4 As of 2018 and later models, the Camry (General) "All Toyota Models" Third, look for the "Small Plug" The Canbus box may be easily accessed by a tiny 4-pin or 8-pin connection on the rear of the Android device. The steering wheel controls may continue to function if this white connector is unplugged (because they occasionally employ analogue "Key1/Key2" cables), but the data (door opening, fuel info, aircon status on screen, etc.) will be shown as "Disconnected." Until you hear a click, insert the little plug carefully. 4. The significance (the "Why Fix It?" Factor) You may ask why fixing the "Disconnected" state is necessary if your buttons are functional. In most cases, unlocking occurs once the Canbus is correctly synced: You can see which door is open on the screen with the help of door opening graphics. The yellow lines in your camera view that change position as you rotate the wheel are called dynamic parking lines. Keeping tabs on the energy flow is possible with a hybrid monitor. Factory Settings: Using the screen to change the behaviour of the car's settings, such as the door lock. Overview of Documents Extend the device slightly so you can make out the name on the little decoder box. Press the "F" key (often 8888, 1617, or 1234) to access the factory. First, choose Protocol Settings or Canbus. After choosing the brand (such as Hiworld) on the box, proceed to Toyota and finally C-HR. Reboot: In order for the "Connected" status to become green, it is often necessary to click "Save" and allow the device to completely restart. If the generic passwords don't work, would you like me to look for the one that works for your particular brand of head unit?

To replace the Japanese-locked device, the dealer fitted an Android one. The controls for the steering wheel and air conditioning are operational. Having said that, the canbus disconnect option is there in the device's factory settings. I understand that choosing Canbus is necessary. Since I was unsure which provider to choose, I looked through all of the options until I realised that chr was one of the models. However, the message "connected canbus" persists even after I choose it. Am I overlooking anything? Every bit of information would be helpful because I am completely new to this. Even though I used Google extensively, I still have no idea how to properly search for this new information.

Hopefully it's not something major, but my S204's plastic engine covers and pipes wobble like crazy. It's a poor design; I would wreck the vehicles if I could. Mine is a lot quieter once I take off the engine covers.

I appreciate your response. What a strange sound! I hope it doesn't cause any costly problems. I'm crossing my fingers that it's just a heat shield or a loose panel. It sounds like the engine bay or somewhere nearby is where the noise is coming from. Would this be the same if they haven't oiled the gearbox enough?

it's hard to tell, and you can end up following unicorns in circles before you figure out what's making all the noise. On the other hand, if they've taken off any heat shields or coverings, it might be a vibrating unicorn. Is the sound emanating from the vehicle's interior or outside, the front or the rear? Though I've never heard anything similar, I think it might be worthwhile to investigate more.

For context, consider the following: - 64 plate Mercedes C Class 250. Section 205 64,500 miles. This problem typically manifests in manual transmissions when the vehicle is in high gear (5th) and the engine speed is low, such as 2k \. On film, the noise appears when gear changes from fourth to fifth, which is when the automatic gearbox typically shifts from fourth to fifth and the RPM lowers. - this noise only occurs when you're pulling (i.e., going uphill or accelerating); as you let off the gas, the noise stops. The noise only happens at low RPM 2k < and high gear 5 >, therefore it doesn't happen in sports or sports plus mode when the RPM is greater before shifting gears. - coasting prevents this from happening. — not even when the engine is revved all the way to red line in neutral. The noise finally became audible a few weeks following a comprehensive service at a Mercedes SPECIALIST facility (not a dealership) in my area, during which they changed the gearbox oil and filter. As far as we know, this is the first service of its type based on age and mileage. The garage I spoke with over the phone claimed that the oil change was just usual and that they use a computer and software to perform it, along with real parts and oil, so I should bring it back on Friday so they can check their work. Since I witnessed the delivery of the items when I dropped off the vehicle for servicing, I am certain that they used Mercedes oil and parts. Anyone have a clue as to what may be making that noise? I'd like not walk in on Friday and accuse them of botched service. Perhaps a loose panel or component, or an inadequate amount of gearbox oil? In case you can't make out the sound in the video, it sounds like a motor, vibrating, or clicking noise. This effect is temporary when the engine speed is low in high gear; it disappears as the engine speed increases or when the paddle is used to manually shift back into fourth gear. I would much appreciate any assistance.

Greetings to everybody, Could someone please have a listen to this engine sounds and tell me what it is? I'm having trouble figuring out where it's coming from.