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Greetings to all, I am seeking assistance regarding an issue I am experiencing with my vehicle, as I find myself utterly at a standstill. I encountered a problem with the gearbox, displaying fault code P073E00, which is evidently a recognised issue. The gearbox was overhauled to rectify the issue, and subsequently, all functions resumed flawlessly. The gearbox lubricant was replenished in accordance with the manufacturer’s specifications, and the gearbox calibration was performed promptly thereafter. Nonetheless, as I entered the motorway to evaluate the vehicle, I accelerated aggressively during the merge. I observed that when the engine attained approximately 4,000 RPM, it ceased to rev and the vehicle abruptly entered limp mode. It appears to retain approximately 90% of its efficacy, yet the problem is distinctly apparent. It is peculiar that the vehicle operates flawlessly in all other respects. The gearbox operates seamlessly, and there are no issues during standard driving. If I turn off the vehicle and then restart it, all functions return to normal and the car operates flawlessly once more. Nonetheless, if this occurs repeatedly, the engine management light (EML) will ultimately illuminate. I examined the vehicle and the diagnostic code displayed is P054496, which pertains to the temperature sensor 1 within the exhaust system. I originally suspected that this sensor could be the source of the issue, thus I substituted the sensor. Regrettably, the issue persists. I am contemplating whether P054496 is genuinely responsible for the limp mode, or if there might be an alternative underlying problem triggering this fault code. Has anyone encountered a comparable issue, specifically a vehicle that enters limp mode at approximately 4,000 RPM with fault code P054496? Any suggestions or insights would be immensely valued, as I find myself utterly perplexed by this issue at present. I appreciate your assistance in advance! 🙏

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Thank you, I anticipate acquiring further knowledge.

Certainly a two plus two, accompanied by a small boot. The rear seats are primarily intended for the accommodation of luggage. I anticipate the cleaning process, as I believe it enhances one's appreciation for the intricacies and design. Currently, I take pleasure in observing carbon fibre each time I open the door or trunk.

In 2016, I cleaned one of these for a friend and was astonished by the size of the rear seats, resembling a racing jockey's saddle, with numerous components to clean, including the rear quarter ducts.

The initial one is for me.

Thank you, these vehicles are truly exceptional. I eagerly anticipate venturing out so that others may relish it as well. Fewer than 2000 are currently on the roads in the UK, making them an uncommon sight.

Pleasant automobile.

Amazon.co.uk : BMW

Greetings, I have returned with a 2015 BMW i8 purchase. I have previously owned the 3, 5, X3, and X5 models. This will mark my twelfth BMW. It serves as a secondary vehicle for leisure days, vacations and occasionally for school transportation.

Well, that's unfortunate. I wasn't planning on getting my hands dirty by changing out the FRM, but I figured it might be a simple fix.

Do a search on the North American Motorsports Forum; however, I seem to remember that you are unable to do so due to the difficulty. I would assume that it would be necessary to replace the FRM with one that offered that option.

He shows the driver's door from the inside.

As I was attempting to fix a door knocking problem (which is addressed in a separate post), I discovered what seems to be wiring to my driver's side mirror. Does the power fold option use this wiring? Is it possible to install powerfold mirrors in place of the current mirrors, enable them in Bimmercode, and then have them function without the need to fiddle with the wiring?

Much obliged. The system is effective.

Get a head start.

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I am unable to start my CX60. No lights work, and the automobile seems to be dead. How should I proceed?

If this is the consequence of your actions, we will remain in the dark because we do not know what you did, whether intentional or not. Was the door disabled on purpose or did you accidentally turn it off? If the issue is with the door itself, removing the door card—which may be difficult if the door is closed—will be necessary to fix the problem. As an example, I can't do it on my Mk4 Mondeo since the six screws that surround the door card can only be accessed while the door is open. If you can't recall whether you unplugged a rod or something, you might have to rely on your memory.

Honestly, I'm not convinced that 18 months is considered recent. Given that MOTs are scheduled annually, you would have discovered the problem during that period. However, has the automobile been taken off the road? The item is considered a failure if it does not open from both sides, though.

Since it is dependent on the nature of the problem, whether you choose new or used parts, the person performing the repair, and so on, I am unable to provide any advice. In any case, you won't know for sure until you open the door and take a good look. However, if you are unsure of the vehicle's overall condition, I recommend taking it in for a MOT regardless to find out what it fails on, especially if the inspection is imminent. It would be a waste of money to fix the door if it turns out to need far more expensive repairs and you end up selling the automobile. The obvious caveat is that I don't know anything about the car or your situation, other than the fact that it is a Mark 1 Focus.

Yes, both inside and outside the car, to answer your second question. I made the door stop doing that 18 months ago. The problem is that I have no idea how I accomplished it; after all, no human memory is perfect. Fixing central locking is a real pain in the neck, I get it. Is the estimated repair cost in the hundreds?

Not going to open from the inside, outside, or both, will it? I don't mind if it won't open from the inside. If it won't open from the outside, I'd say it's a bust. That is, unless by some stroke of luck they open it from the other side to check the seat belts and everything! The n/s/r door on an old car wouldn't open for some reason—the control rod link had come loose, but I didn't notice until the MOT because I hadn't used that door in a long time! It is unbelievable to me that it is any laxer now.

My door was severely dented, but the mot assured me that it would not fail as long as it could be opened and shut correctly.

To all the users of this site, my back is The same thing that happened around 18 months ago—the passenger door won't open—has happened again. Is this possible for a failed mot test?