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Is bimmercode capable of coding new headlights?

Unfortunately, that is only one of many uses for the dismal code.

When I used BimmerCode a few years ago, I believe I saw that option—something about US style marker lights or something like.

Bimmercode has a tonne of lighting choices, but I've never ever heard of that one. I will review it in a couple of days and get back to you, but someone could come in with the solution sooner.

https://www.bmwremapping.com/#:~:text=BW Auto Repairs Ltd provide,form to forward your details

In the Middlesex and Hayes areas, I suggest BMW Remapping. nonetheless, it is located in suburban London.

Hi, I was wondering if anyone in the SE London region knew of somebody who could code. I would prefer it if the front indicators stayed on when the daytime running lights were turned on. If I had a computer, I'd do it myself, but I don't. Alternately, would the bimmercode app and a Bluetooth obd adaptor be sufficient for this task?

I got a replacement sleeve and some Gum Gum because I cut it when removing the DPF. You won't even notice the weld. I suppose nobody will care about a well repaired exhaust system as long as the emissions are acceptable. The DPF's back is where the leak is. Also, I really doubt it's a knockoff. Since it was mostly used for highway travel (as an airport taxi), I assume it is still in fine shape. Even though it's not related to this subject, I'd still like to inspect the exhaust pressure hose.

An MoTer could reject it if it appears to have been tampered with. It may be beneficial to consult your partner for his thoughts about it. Does the DPF have that on the intake side? Because a lower differential pressure would result from that. It might lead to a highly unlikely interpretation, though. On my own, I would replace. However, you should inspect the DPF's tail pipe. I received two pairs of female and male items in my purchase. There is a female receiver on my back of the exhaust. Your V5 confirms that you have a Euro 5 vehicle, and your emissions plate details 0.1, so it must be. I purchased one in January from AutoDoc for £310.51; however, it did not fit, but it might have been adapted to suit.

If aesthetics aren't an issue, a standard mig welder blast should be enough to seal the joint.

After doing some reading, I would assume so. Mild steel probably wouldn't make it beneath the vehicle for so long. What happened to galvanised ubolt is also clear to me.

I was wondering if the DPF was made of stainless steel.

I figured it was time to rinse DPF with Wynn's fluid. It was discovered to have a hole! Check out the picture. It has me wondering whether it may perhaps produce a pressure leak severe enough to fool the computer into thinking the DPF is full. It seems to reason that a larger pressure differential will result in a larger soot calculation, and vice versa; removing part of the pressure will cause the shown difference to be larger. I have 316 electrodes at home, so I'll have to find a nearby welding shop to fix it. Alternatively, I could just buy some 304 tubing and practise on it.

Impressive, £27! The price was right. Personally, I've never changed mine. The courtesy car is incredibly important to me, therefore I hope it stays. Even though they have service available while you wait, I prefer to use the courtesy car since I can drop it off before work and pick it up after work. My current plan expires in August, but I'll enquire about renewing it; I usually choose the two-year plan, so that might be the reason for the premium price. I can't commit to anything for three or four years.

Did you enquire with the dealer?

Quite intriguing. For my 2012 C350, I am presently paying £44 a month for a three-year plan. This plan will cover just one extra service. At the beginning of 2013, the monthly cost was £27, so I decided to get a plan. It accepted payments all the way through 2016. After that, I had a £27.50/month plan for two years, and then a £36/month plan for four years. For as long as there has been an option, I have always gone with the longest plan. thought it was worth it the whole time. Whenever I needed an extension, I had to ask for it; neither my dealership nor MB UK ever suggested it. You can see that the price has gone up from £27 to £44 each month. The "replacement vehicle whilst car is in workshop" provision is no longer part of the plan, according to the MB website. There was a little fee "to cover insurance" for this, but up until my most recent visit, it was always free. It is likely to be dealership or group specific.

I have their service plan for my 2012 ML350, and it costs £49 a month for two years and two services. I have extended it three times already, and each time the price has remained the same. They are quite persistent after the second service. My estimation is that each treatment will cost £588. Everything from transaxle service fluid and filters to cabin filters, extra work when it's required, and brake fluid changes are all part of this. It seems worthwhile to me. As an added bonus, their service plan usually includes a free courtesy car, so I can simply leave my own car at the dealership and take advantage of theirs. Plus, I've utilised the free Mercedes recovery service on many occasions, both domestically and abroad, in Europe. Whenever they discover problems, I have the option to either fix them together or bring the report to another garage to have it fixed there. Because the vehicle is already in their possession, they are often willing to negotiate a lower repair price than a local garage would be willing to provide. This is because they value their company and do not want to lose customers. Keep the rental car until yours is fixed if they are unable to do it on the same day. While they were mending mine, I got a new GLC for three weeks. Now that I sound like a Mercedes salesman, I'll end here 🙂

I traded in my old automobile for a C-Class with 25 plates. I went to the Mercedes website and paid £42 for a 4-year, 2-moth maintenance package. A representative from Mercedes's Swindon office called three days after I received the email stating that the dealer will be in touch to verify my bank information and the plan. The woman who called me was confident it was legitimate since she read me all of my personal information and used my current mileage VIn number. An email outlining the entire strategy and the due date arrived in my inbox shortly after the call.

My vehicle's license plate has changed to a GLC 300D 25 and I need to establish a maintenance schedule. To keep track of my yearly mileage and other statistics, I use the Mercedes website. The results show a variety of options, including the one I need—a four-year plan with two motorhomes and four services—for £42 per month. I will be contacted by the dealership of my choice to finalise the plan details. When my local dealership entered my information and requested a four-year plan, the system said that only a three-year plan, costing £46 a month, was available. Please, someone, tell me why this might be the case.

The engine now starts on the first try every time without fail after I changed the fuel filter and the orings in the fuel lines. I will soon tackle the remaining few nagging issues, such as injector number four's "black death" problem. I have acquired a reaming tool, washers from Honda, new nuts, and ceramic grease, so I should be able to straighten it out. In light of this known issue, how is your experience driving the truck? Days, not weeks or months—occasionally spitting under the cover, not quite full with tar just yet. There are a plethora of minor flaws that require attention. Additionally, it has to be run for a while to determine if there are any other problems, since it has been sitting for some time. Runs and stops well now, thus the two most important things are taken care of. The indicator stalk lights up three times when you turn right, but it stops blinking when you leave it on; I have no idea how frequent this is either.

One client brought in a Porsche Cayenne that sounded like a tractor; he'd had it since new. It turns out the engine was in terrible shape and he had never had it serviced.

Captain's log: after draining the reservoir, the leak stopped. It turned out to be washer fluid leaking. The engine now runs much smoother, the tappets are much quieter, and I changed the oil using oil flush. There was nearly no coolant in the engine when it arrived (it came in dead) due to the oil and air filter being extremely dirty and unpleasant. There was also about seven litres of water added to top them up. How are individuals able to live such a life? It starts after a few long cranks, so now we need to oil the fuel filter and gasoline lines. Are there any guides or films for that one?

After inspecting the leak, it appears that the washer bottle is more likely to blame than the coolant. Drops of liquid can be seen on the bottom of the ABS pump, and the flavour is sour, unlike coolant, which is pleasant. Therefore, I would conclude that the washer bottle is leaking. Unfortunately, I also filled it up, and it's a shame that the washer liquid and coolant are both blue. Tomorrow I will empty the washer bottle to check if the leak is still there or has gone. It takes more than a minute of combined cranking to start the beast, but once it's started, it starts faster the next day—probably due to an air leak from the orings I read about. Is there a decent explanation of that position somewhere? Tomorrow I will install a new fuel filter and attempt to get a few orings changed; I have six orings from Mercedes, so I am prepared. As far as I am aware, there are two on the pump and one on the fuel filter. Regarding the handbook, I will look into finding a PDF version someplace. To come after the first service. Thank you!

This is it, my friend.

Welcome, everyone! I recently purchased a 2002 W163 ML270 CDI—a vehicle that did not start and was declared dead upon arrival. So far, I haven't run into many issues; nevertheless, I have a query that I will include at the conclusion of the post as some of them could be useful to others. It had a dead battery, and someone had inserted the 100The right way to connect a block fuse to the positive terminal of a battery is this: bolt on the wire, fuse (which has blown), and last, a plastic nut. I had to temporarily install an external maxi fuse box because the device wasn't making good contact. Afterwards, I discovered that the glow plug lights and coolant would remain turned on. Glow plugs and a plethora of other signals appeared once I connected to the diagnostics, and the coolant temperature showed -40C. I discovered it was detached while searching for a replacement sensor; so, if it reads -40C, inspect the plug and wires. Then, since I wasn't sure of the hue of the coolant that had been used before, I had to add about 7 litres of distilled water to it. I wasn't expecting to have to add so much water, but whatever. After deleting the errors, it runs smoothly without any lights. The only remaining ones are two for the left mirror, and one of them is a heating water circulation pump (B1108-M13). The other two are a rear blower (B100A-M2/1), a rear shut off flap position motor (B1206M2/12), and a high pressure and return pump (C1401 A7/3m1). It was strange since after I changed the 100A fuse, the rad fan remained on full blast, the rad light was on, and there were codes P0115-2 (coolant temperature sensor), P1482-4 (glow output overcurrent), and 2, 4, and 5 (glow plug failure). For some reason (don't ask me how), hooking up the temperature sensor reset the codes and restored regular operation of the fan. Currently, I'm seeing an unusual coolant leak that isn't particularly constant. It appears to be coming from behind the washer bottle region, which was initially my suspicion, but now it appears to be leaking coolant. I will verify tomorrow, but it appears to be working and much better thus far. Also, according to the municipal maintenance rules, oil is actually sludge and not oil at all. Anyhow, I'll try to locate the source of the leak and change the oil; I'm curious as to whether or not the head gasket was cooked by the excessive amount of coolant that was missing. Because the device on the positive post was crooked and not making good contact due to its looseness, the vehicle remained still. I can't wait to fix this, but why do people ignore their automobiles for so long? Where can I get a digital copy of the service manual for these?