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With ease, I choose. When I do travel, it's usually for a vacation. Spending a few pounds here and there on charging pales in comparison to the expense of lodging, entertainment, and dining out. Most of the time, I'm using solar and off-peak power for my driving.

Because of the obstacles you mention, I don't usually go to extreme lengths to discover the cheapest option. I figure that if I can save 10–20p/mile for the majority of the year, I can afford to pay a little more for the convenience of taking the occasional road trip, just like people with ICE do at highway services.

It's worth attempting to save £1 per week on charging, in my opinion. However, attempting to save £20 annually is not worth the effort. Pick the one that's easiest for you.

They perfectly illustrate my point: various times, different locations, and different prices. Plus, for some inexplicable reason, they are never in the vicinity of my routes!

These days, if I'm planning a good excursion outside of my usual area, the first place I'll look for a charging station is a Tesla public charger. They're usually the quickest and cheapest, so it's a win-win situation.

I'd prefer it if someone could either validate my findings or point out where I'm mistaken, but I'm glad I did it because I'm getting ready for our annual trip and want to know where the cheapest chargers are near our overnight stop. We are not in a position to consider subscription suggestions, so please don't. There is no shortage of chargers, and speeds aren't an issue; the problem is, of course, the cost. In my opinion, the easiest charging session will likely cost you more than you bargained for. It seems like there are a lot of hurdles to jump through in order to compare convenience with cost, even after all these years: different prices in different apps, upfront costs to fund the app that you might never use, numerous providers with different terms and conditions, and parking lots that won't let you exit to use the restroom or do anything else.

Is there spark, assuming the fuel issue isn't the problem? The ignition circuit consists of relatively few components.

And I can confirm that I have completed both tasks. We just rebuilt the motor, and it still won't start even though the compression is fine.

I apologise if my information is outdated, but it seems like you have already replaced nearly everything that could electrically fix a "crank but no start" problem. Have you ever, for fun, attempted to start the engine by spraying it with starter fluid and seeing if it would run while you kept spraying it into the intake? Is the timing of this engine correct? Have you checked it with a compression test?

I hope it took the following form:

The signal from the camshaft sensor didn't. Crankshaft signal exhibits a substantially distinct pattern

Was this the way it appeared?

I checked the injectors and ignition coils just like you said. Occasionally, they will flash. Additionally, I connected an oscilloscope to the sensor for the crankshaft and camshaft. Both the AC signal and the DC signal from the crankshaft appeared to be in good shape. Following the engine rebuild, he changed out both sensors. We suspected the pcm was at blame because there was a signal going into it but no signal coming out; the voltage input was 12.5v. That means a pcm, a new camshaft and crankshaft sensor, and no fuel injector or ignition pulse.

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It seems like you're saying that the ECU isn't pulsing the injectors properly. Is this something you've confirmed with a noise test? I take it that you mean the engine is turning over, but won't start. Instead of hurling parts at the vehicle, attempt diagnosing it. First things first: check the wiring if you're saying the injector noise test doesn't work.

The engine on my 2000 Tracker is a 2.0-liter Suzuki. After we rebuilt the engine, it started up and ran smoothly, but the rpm gauge began to steadily decrease. We turned the engine off after 20 minutes of good running after replacing the crankshaft position sensor; we would finish the task the following morning. The following morning, while it was still chilly, it sputtered at 100 rpm before dying. Now it won't turn over at all, and the only time the fuel injector pulses are noticeable are very infrequent and insufficient for the engine to start. We checked the grounds and hot wires, replaced the PCM, and sensors for the crankshaft and camshaft. Neither the engine nor the vehicle have any codes. We are at a loss as to what to do next. I need someone to lend me a hand.

I experienced a coolant problem once with my previous Smax. Following extensive contemplation and the utterance of numerous expletives, it was ultimately revealed that the issue stemmed from the coolant cap on the expansion reservoir. A simple solution, yet frustrating due to my oversight.

I have scheduled an appointment with Ford on Thursday for a second opinion; I will inform you of the outcome. I appreciate it.

That is peculiar. Was the heater set to hot during the test? Perhaps 10 psi may not be sufficiently elevated under extreme heat; could it sustain a greater pressure? Assume it does not overheat whatsoever. Merely attempting to consider alternative perspectives on the matter.

I installed a new expansion tank and a new cap from Ford last Friday. What is occurring is utterly foolish. Rearranging a pressure assessment once more. I appreciate it.

If the system maintains pressure throughout, the sole component you have yet to examine is the cap. When subjected to intense operation, it may become excessively hot, potentially causing the cap to fail under elevated pressure. In any case, acquire a new cap. They are exceedingly inexpensive. However, I would refrain from purchasing a Febi product as the recent one I acquired from them was unsatisfactory. Preferably acquire an original equipment manufacturer Ford component.

Affirmative. Conducted a coolant pressure assessment with the engine at elevated temperatures, maintaining a pressure of 10 psi. We are conducting an additional pressure test to verify that nothing was overlooked.

I have no clue regarding the whereabouts of the coolant! We discovered that the pipe connecting the thermostat to the expansion bottle was defective!! I substituted it; I will ascertain today (Sunday) whether the pipe is the culprit!! I appreciate it.