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I travelled to work this morning after clearing the codes last night. While navigating slightly around a large puddle, the lights remained off for fifteen minutes, at which time the DSC light flashed three times. In an operational state, this is considered typical, as stated in the manual. When I arrived at work, I checked for codes, and everything is still in order. If it's a sensor, do they suddenly stop operating or do they return intermittently? I'm sure they'll return.

https://www.sytnerstevenagebmwparts.co.uk/p/132038307/34526752702.html

Is it better to buy a real sensor outright, or are there any less expensive options that still work?

https://www.sytnerstevenagebmwparts.co.uk/p/Bmw__740dX/ISA-screw-M6X16-88-ZNNIV/131952312/07129905536.html

Yours faithfully. Another issue with Google is that it also returns AI results, which can indicate that something else is broken or has failed, even though the code for that specific area is different. All the lights seem to be pointing to this, with the exception of the DSC and ABS signals, so I'm crossing my fingers that it's not the module failing. Or am I mistaken? The handbook is also not very useful. As you sit in the car, is the rear right side the driver's side or the passenger side? It lacks specificity! How do these sensors often eliminate things? Fifteen years ago, when attempting to remove one from a vehicle, they snapped. Would using brake cleaner and the washer test be beneficial? Is it probable that these bolts will snap? Should I replace them? These are a major target for eBay vendors. BMW costs 74p, however they charge a fixed sum of £8 for shipping. I have never seen if the dealer closest to me sells parts, so I will have to investigate that.

What mentioned is something I'll echo. Putting a washer in the gap between the sensor and the hub is an experiment, but remember that this is just a test.

Based on the symptoms and code, it seems that the rear right sensor or the reluctor could be the culprit. With a 99% certainty, Speedo uses data from the rear left sensor.

Every once in a while for the past two weeks, the traction control light has been flashing on and off. Typically, it happens as you exit the same intersection. I didn't give it a second thought because, as with other automobiles I've owned, I assumed it was only a warning that it had kicked in due to the rain and greasy roads. Today going home from work I decided to take the car for a run as it's been a while. Strangely, the light turned on whenever we were travelling in a straight path. The moment I got on the highway, every light went out. I proceeded at a leisurely pace for the last 10 miles because it appeared to be driving and braking normally. When I returned home, I scanned the vehicle and now I have the following: wheel speeds as reported by EGS CAN 005DC1-Rear Right ABS/DSC Wheel Speed Sensor I will check tomorrow to see if the codes are immediately back on or if it takes some time. However, it appears that the traction light's illumination served as an alert that something was malfunctioning, rather than the system activating! What should I look for initially? It seems the speedo won't operate if the rear sensor goes, but I've found that it actually does. Could it be the module, the ABS ring, or the sensor?

Are you hitting them with sufficient force? Never encountered that issue in more than half a century.

That's strange. Given the plastic clips and metal door panel, I don't see the holes expanding. Is each and every one of the door card's clips securely fastened? They should all be present to "help" one another, in my opinion. By the way, are each of the clips perfectly aligned with its corresponding hole? Passing it by and folding back is a breeze. Have you upgraded your speakers or installed soundproofing material around their rear? That's the only other thing that comes to mind. My bottom clips stopped positively clipping home after I tried it. The insecurity of the door card was much more frustrating than having to remove the deadening material. Wishing you all the best

I appreciate the guidance, however I've already attempted using new OEM clips.

Put in fresh clips in their place.

My E46 convertible's OEM door card clips won't stay in place; they constantly falling out from the bottom. There are no cables or other interference issues, as far as I can see. Will the door holes enlarge with time? Can somebody suggest any clips that are more robust? Thank you in advance for any assistance.

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I see your perspective. For turning the tires, I already have one and a torque wrench.

You should also bring a tool to loosen the wheel bolts. I got a tire space saver and a jack, and I also got an extension wrench with several sockets to put in the trunk. Definitely preferable to that four-way cross wheel nut thing.

I got my new Takumi yesterday, however it doesn't have any jack. A jack and space-saving spare wheel will be on their way to me soon. Fitting it with the Bose subwoofer will require some adjustment, though.

Not very essential if you don't have a spare tyre. The used wheel and jack that I purchased on eBay cost me £105.00.

Unfortunately, that is not included. It is possible to buy it as an accessory, although it is somewhat pricey. Try searching on eBay

Good day, U.K. is where I call home. Just two days ago, I purchased a Mazda CX-30 with the 2023 2.0 SkyActiv G Takumi package. I just realised that there is no jack in the trunk of the automobile. In the UK, did this vehicle come with one? Does it usually go missing like this? In the online handbook, it is referenced at position 1, among others.

If they barely last 15,000 miles, it might not be worth it to rotate them. Unfortunately, their unusual breadth of 275 makes them unusable. There is a dearth of reasonably priced alternatives.

My go-to tires for long days on the road are the same, Toyo Open Country. The TPP here has been running for around twelve months. As mentioned before, we are currently at 6/32 with somewhat less than 12,000 miles on the odometer. I have my doubts about their ability to provide the mileage you desire. We've gone above and beyond the recommended three times to rotate and balance the tires and wheels. Let me know if you're keeping anything special from me.

With the 19-inch wheels, I have a preference. 19500 miles in approximately 7 months with all four bearings ranging from 6 to 7/32nds. Here we have the Toyota Open Country. Tires are not terrific, but I expect them to last 40,000 miles.

Simply put, 51 psi is the maximum level that I am aware of. For the majority of my vehicles, I aim for a pressure of 40 psi, even if the tyre manufacturer recommends a maximum of 50 psi. Thank you for responding, though; it might be useful to others.