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When you initially acquired this vehicle, what was the mileage? It sounds like blisters caused by trapped moisture; I'm sorry to hear that.

Although I did not encounter the identical problem, I did have to have my 2025 PHEV—also painted Artisan Red—repaired by Mazda due to a paint flaw. You can find more information about the issue, along with pictures, in posts that I've made about paint. To find out if you have a choice of body shop, you should contact the dealerand/or Corporate. The dealer insisted on using a body shop they had previously selected and had used for all of their body and paint jobs, so I know I had no say in the matter. It seems like the clear coat is of higher quality than the factory paint, and I'm happy with the results. No fresh paint problems have surfaced in the repainted area (i.e., the majority of the front end) for the past twelve months. Keep in mind that it is not easy to match paint colours, especially Artisan Red and similar 3-stage paint jobs. The paint's metallic flake may not lay flat like the original paint, so the colour may appear slightly different in different lights, even though they're identical.

There shouldn't be any negative impact on you when the lease is up. As with any other warranty repair, or even professionally performed body work. The competence of the repair shop is my sole worry. I have no reservations about taking my car to a reputable body shop in my area for a respray. They may be able to achieve an even more precise colour match than the factory when painting metal panels and plastic bumpers. On the flip side, though, terrible painting... Perhaps things won't improve much from where they are now. The repair shop is up to you when it comes to collisions. However, how that relates to the paint defect warranty repair is something I'm not clear on. Must it be a particular store? Does any store belong to the "Mazda Collision Network"? You might also try selecting a store and getting their stamp of approval. Seeing the shop and their work is a must if you have the chance. Most reputable businesses are pleased to show you their office and the finished products because they are proud of their work. (If you give a general area, maybe you'll get some recommendations for stores that people here are familiar with.) Concerning the inquiry as to whether or not other people are experiencing the same problems... The CX-90 in our driveway is the only one I can speak for, but the paint job is amazing. As far as I can tell, it is flawless and devoid of any flaws. Reflections barely show any waveform. The painting is of exceptional quality. However, their vehicle production is in the thousands. On occasion, some will inevitably experience problems. It might be related to surface preparation or contamination in your situation.

In late June, I leased a brand new 2026 Mazda CX-90 PHEV Premium Sport AWD. Upon handling it, I detected a rough, sandpaper-like texture on some areas of the exterior paint; however, it was not apparent when exposed to direct sunlight. It was first explained by the vendor as transportation protective film residue. I took it back to the dealer a few weeks later, and their paint expert finally agreed that there are a lot of tiny bubbles, pinholes, and other flaws in the paint and clearcoat. There are dozens of flaws per square inch in some spots, and they're visible in some lights and when you touch them. It seems like the hood, front fenders, bumper/trim, and maybe even both front doors are in the path of the damage. The dealership first stated they would not recommend painting a brand-new car. The current plan from Mazda is to have a certified body shop repaint the entire front end—fenders, hood, bumper, and trim—as part of the warranty repair. The dealer stated that they do not have any control over the matter as Mazda has the final say. My main worry is that this is a completely new, accident-free car that needs a lot of body and paint work done. Since it is a leased vehicle, I am also worried that the repair may lower its value or cause me problems when my lease is up. Does anyone else have experience with major paint defects on a CX-90 from the factory? Did Mazda or the dealer figure out what was causing them? If so, what repair were they able to do, and how long did it last? This is excessive for a brand-new vehicle, even though I adore the vehicle. My first option would have been to return it and get a replacement from Mazda, but they aren't going to do that. If anyone has experienced this problem with a brand new leased CX-90, I would greatly appreciate hearing from them.

Amazon.co.uk : Camry

Do any of you ever have trouble turning the ignition key when the wheel is fully turned to the left or right? It happens to me occasionally when I'm working on the car or in a parking situation. I have to rock the wheel and jiggle the key to get it to go back to "normal" again. Is it time to get a new ignition switch? Hell yeah, I've got four sets of keys! By the way, I came across a bunch of videos on YouTube showing how to change the ignition switch on a Gen 4 Camry. The videos show it being pretty easy to do with the key, but without it, you'll need to be patient.

After six years of sitting outside, rusting from the bottom up, a car that is twenty-five years old is probably already scrap. Some businesses will even come to you to collect your junk car and pay you what it's worth in scrap metal. The other option is to remove the trim around the steering column to gain access. Then, using a small chisel and hammer, unscrew the security bolts that attach the key cylinder assembly to the side of the column. This will allow you to extract the locking mechanism, which will allow you to turn the steering wheel. For my older vehicles, I have done this on multiple occasions. The tops of the security bolts are visible once you remove the trim, so you can see that they are surprisingly easy to identify (hint: they don't have a head, just a smooth dome). A nearby locksmith can accomplish the task in a matter of minutes if you're in a true jam.

Huge equipment lift!

Indeed, the key is to focus on finding a solution.

The video was absolutely "AGG-ravating!"

Obtain a replacement keyed ignition cylinder and install it in place of the broken or damaged one. Just watch the video without worrying about the jargon; it's all over the place.

I wouldn't bother attempting to bypass the steering lock anymore after damaging the key cylinder. Since the steering lock is a mechanical component of the ignition/column assembly on a 2001 Camry, a broken cylinder would cause the wheel to remain locked even though the steering-lock mechanism is still in use. The steering lock is an anti-theft mechanism, so I will not show you how to defeat it. However, there are significantly simpler solutions for your primary objective, which is to move the vehicle a short distance within your own property without a key: Set up wheel skates or dollies beneath the front wheels. Since the 2001 Camry has front-wheel drive, shifting into neutral and then positioning the front tires on suitable automotive dollies enables you to move it without steering. Use four wheel dollies—one under each tire—to free the rear wheels that have been sitting for six years. A tow truck service that has a flatbed or self-loading wheel-lift can move it in a matter of minutes without needing a key. Additionally, a mobile automotive locksmith can evaluate the broken ignition; however, they will typically require proof of authorisation to work on the vehicle, as it is owned by someone else. Instead of sloppy, inexpensive furniture dollies, I would use rated hydraulic wheel dollies for a brief move across the yard or driveway. To level the vehicle, you simply lift it off its wheels using jacks, lower it onto the dolly, shift into neutral, let go of the parking brake, and roll it. Use wheel chocks to maintain a level surface and steady the vehicle until you are ready to move it. Additionally, put the screwdriver out of its ignition mode. Changing the steering column becomes a relatively easy locksmith or ignition cylinder job if the lock housing gets damaged.

A friend requested that I keep their 2001 Camary on my property. I still haven't been able to reach him after all these years. I need to relocate it to a different part of the property, but I don't have the key. The steering wheel is locked, but I can shift into neutral. Can the steering wheel be unlocked? The wheel remains locked even after I hammered a screwdriver into the key slot; all it does is spin around. Much obliged.

"Oil starvation" ?? My motorcycle is twenty years old and has a rudimentary system for monitoring the engine oil level. It basically says, "Hey, stupid, pour a litre of oil into the sump whenever you have a moment, or else I'll explode." Nobody knows for sure if the dashboard alerted the driver to the impending oil starvation because it is not mentioned in the article.

That explains why range rovers are in the highest insurance bracket (50), and that's before you even consider the RR theft rate!

Probably over £31,000.

Even though it's interesting to read, it seems like a sponsored article. Similarly, in the same piece: "Claim rates varied significantly across models, according to WSG's research. Land Rover Discovery (51.64%), Range Rover Sport (47.17%), and Range Rover (52.65%) were the internal combustion engine vehicles that met the minimum data threshold. While the Volkswagen Polo had a rate of 13.89%, the Mini Cooper was second with 11.49%, and the Ford Fiesta had the lowest rate at 9.55%.

Prior to the engine failure, how much was the car's value?

"A brand-new unit was priced at £43,700.95, but warranty provider Warranty Solutions Group (WSG) managed to source a used replacement from Germany for £30,913.30." Maybe this makes sense from the insurance company's point of view, but if I were the one footing the bill, I'd think MB's quote was a steal, or the used engine was horribly overprotective.

I doubt MB would sell you an engine on PCP, and the price is scary compared to what most people (including myself) would ever pay for a whole car. Losing the warranty would have meant the end of the car's life. Is MB's goodwill absent?

https://cardealermagazine.co.uk/mercedes-owner-hit-with-43700-engine-replacement-quote-after-catastrophic-failure-at-48000-miles/327674

t was somewhat of a result, I would say!

It should be possible to come to a complete stop from a speed of 35 km/h in 9 meters with a good set of brake pads, such as the "yellow stuff" pads. Just wanted to check if anyone knows if the Defender rotors and callipers will work with the RRC diff? I have the modified brake pipe.

People may be using inexpensive pads.

You can't say for sure unless you give it a go, I suppose. But in Australia, if the registration has been modified or is more than 12 months old, a braking test is usually required to re-register the vehicle. Half of the RRCs he has seen failed the braking test with the factory brakes, according to the assessment guy I spoke with. As a result, they had to get upgraded brakes in order to get the MOT, or whatever you call it.