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Find a buddy who is a mechanic and ask if they have the necessary software and machine. Hopefully, everything will be taken care of when he looks at it.

We independent VAG specialists have access to the VW system, which is ODIS, but it is expensive and difficult to use. You can't get by with just fault codes; there are alternatives, the most popular and effective of which is VCDS. However, it's not enough to have the system; you also need to know how to use it.

A diagnostic tool with VAG software is thus essential for me.

They will be unable to know that unless they possess appropriate software. Injector balance corrections in measuring blocks and a return leak off test are necessary for diagnosis of these.

No new injectors have been installed. Heard from the mechanic that the injectors are functioning properly.

A CAYC code engine is notoriously finicky when it comes to injectors; they frequently, if not always, break down. Many dubious "reconditioning" businesses peddle junk due to the high number of issues with these. Only the brand new, authentic VDO/Continental A2C9626040080 or the brand new, authentic VW part 03L 130 277 S, priced at £756 each, can be trusted. The new injectors must be programd to the ECU, and the high pressure fuel system must be spotless with no debris or metal specks visible above the fuel filter. There is a smooth running injector balancing procedure in the programming of the diagnostic system they used (ODIS for VW), but you should never use it. Doing so will completely mess up the ECU's learned values and make the engine make a horrible noise called Diesel knock.

I fixed all the leaks on it, but now I'm confused because the shuddering and clacking noises weren't caused by a real leak of pip.

Have returned it home and it is ready to go... it can reach speeds of 70 mph. They said the injectors were fine before they were locked out. It's a 1.6 and it's driving me crazy.

It seems like you should take it to a different garage to have it fixed. Are you sure it's a 1.6 or 2.0? I'm betting on the former and it requires an injector.

Good day! I'm crossing my fingers that someone can lend me a hand. A pipe was replaced because the car was leaking. After getting a new throttle body, air filter (because the previous owner installed an induction kit), oil, etc., the car suddenly starts making a clacking noise. Is this the EGR system? It runs like a champ now. It has spent the past two weeks parked in a garage. The problem is that the car hates to idle, and they have no idea why; they think it requires specific VAG software, but their machine couldn't access it. It trembles a lot and won't rev higher than 2000. I would be eternally grateful for any guidance you could provide.

I appreciate it. I have no clue how I am meant to view the filling hole beyond that foolish bonnet! I stand at a height of 5 feet 3 inches, amusingly enough.

All the literature I have encountered indicates that maximum and minimum indicators should be present within the filling aperture.

I completely understand your point—those min/max indicators on the Twingo coolant reservoir can be exceedingly difficult to discern. Have you attempted to illuminate the side of the tank with a torch to observe if the light reflects off the lettering? Including an image of your view could assist someone in directing you to the correct location!

I have searched thoroughly and cannot locate the minimum and maximum indicators on the coolant expansion reservoir. Could someone provide me with clarification, please?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DXK1WFN9?ascsubtag=v1-54304c-9366-61b2bcdba0-d

My device exhibited a comparable issue, and it only recognised a small, older 4GB flash drive after the larger ones ceased to be detected.

No.🙂

Have you resolved it?

Attempt a drive that is under 8GB formatted with FAT32.

Amazon.co.uk : nissan juke tekna

Greetings, I possess a 2017 Nissan Juke Tekna. I have encountered no issues with the USB drive in the vehicle; however, last week it ceased to recognise any USB flash drives. I have configured it to FAT32. Assistance would be greatly appreciated. I appreciate it.

Amazon.co.uk : Mazda CX-90 2026 TPF

The 2026 TPF that I bought in December 2025 has approximately 18,000 miles on it. Just a few minor concerns. Above all else, it is full of frivolous things: Reminding myself not to slam my knee into the front passenger or driver's side air vent is a constant challenge. There has been no fix for the 2026 model-year instrument cluster display randomly turning on all the lights and sweeping the gauges while driving, which many people have experienced. Feature of the program. Your mileage may vary. If you want to get the greatest deal, you should look around. I probably paid too much for mine, but there were some unforeseen circumstances that forced me to buy it anyway... but I'm getting off topic.

In terms of durability, the present CX-90 MHEV should hold up well over time. As with any updated model, it's important to monitor multiple sources, including customer reviews, for any problems.

We don't have any long-term data since this model was introduced in 2023. If everything goes according to plan, you might be the one to provide that information!