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I utilise a 2-foot long spike to incapacitate them. Regarding cleaning, one may consider pumping a substance into the rear section of the exhaust. If your vehicle is equipped with two oxygen sensors, it will possess a catalytic converter; if it has only one sensor, it will not.

Is the passive cat easily removable and cleanable?

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In 2014, a transition occurred in the diesel particulate filter (DPF) and catalytic converter (cat) systems. Vehicles manufactured prior to this year were equipped with a catalytic converter preceding the DPF, whereas post-2014 models feature a catalytic converter followed by a DPF, with a passive catalytic converter integrated midway through the exhaust system. In all instances of DPF removal, I have had to eliminate the passive catalytic converter, as the absence of the DPF leads to soot accumulation that obstructs it over time.

I am considering that if I replace the glow plug controller, I should also replace the glow plug loom.

If you encounter difficulties, submit it to me, and I will resolve the issue. It requires a systematic approach, including smoke testing and diagnostics, and having expertise is advantageous.

Upon initially replacing the glow plugs, the code 4952 indicated a smooth working controller for cylinder 4, with 4A44/4A64 activating cylinders 1 and 3. Replaced all four once more, resulting in a 4A64 cylinder. One activation 4A54 cylinder Two activations Activation of cylinder 3 in 4A44 E373 no message (RLS wiper speed), receiver integrated automatic heating/air conditioning system/IHKS/IHS, Transmission JBE; what should be attempted next? I performed a DPF cleaning despite having a DPF deletion last year.

Extremely ambiguous; it is essential to obtain fault codes and any live data to ascertain the underlying issues. Occasionally, a turbo malfunction, DPF complication, or EGR valve failure may mimic limp mode, while the actual problem could be insufficient boost. Furthermore, engines with over 80,000 miles may experience timing chain elongation, leading to a flat performance that resembles limp mode, often without generating fault codes, complicating diagnosis. Gearbox malfunctions may resemble limp mode if it becomes jammed in third gear, as a self-protective measure. This defect can be challenging to diagnose. Glow plugs do not activate limp mode; however, a blocked DPF will trigger it, as regeneration is impossible without functional glow plugs. It is typical for the glow plug controller to fail. BMW component priced at £58

I have replaced the glow plugs twice and performed a DPF cleaning. However, it remains in limp mode.

Hello everyone, I previously discussed limp mode here some time back. A small mechanic inspected the car but was unable to identify any issues and expressed confusion. Instructed me to remove the interior fuse box, as moisture occasionally infiltrates and induces erratic malfunctions. I examined all fuses and relays, stored it in a warm location for a week, and subsequently replaced it. The fault code for glow plug number four was detected, prompting the replacement of all four glow plugs. Currently indicating the activation of glow plugs 1, 2, and 3. I will replace the glow plug harness and the glow plug control module. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

The configuration is consistent across most BMW models currently, making the task exceedingly difficult because to the large shaft and the multipoint pinion nut. I received a quotation for £350. I believe it pertained to my previous F11 few years ago.

I am unaware of your vehicle, but mine was subpar; there is a substantial nut.The BMW F82 M4 differential employs a substantial, single-use M39 nut with a 1.5mm thread pitch for the input flange (pinion shaft), necessitating specialised equipment and considerable power for removal and accurate torque application. Nuts are also related with the axle shaft seals (output seals). I indicated that the Loctite used was not factory-sourced; however, it must have been, as the vehicle had only 20,000 miles at the time of purchase. Regardless, they successfully removed it, but my differential emitted a whine upon reassembly. Consequently, they procured a new differential and installed it, resolving the issue. Naturally, I incurred no costs for the new differential or associated labour. Nevertheless, I remain uncertain about the differences between the M4 and standard vehicles, as the differential fins and similar components are larger and more robust. The initial leak was addressed, and servicing is required following the leak repair.I required a pinion seal from a BMW shop. The service cost was £88, while the repair for the leak was approximately £400. My vehicle exhibited discolouration followed by a weep, prompting me to cease driving until I could schedule an appointment.

The task should be very straightforward, provided the axle carrier does not obstruct the removal of the exhaust and propshaft. However, I am uncertain about the costs, as they can vary significantly; it is advisable to obtain multiple quotes.

I suspect the input seal from the propshaft is the issue. Are you aware of the simplicity of this repair and the estimated expense involved?

The urgency of the repair is contingent upon the extent of the leakage; if the staining is minimal, it may be addressed at a later time, but if the stained area is substantial, it is advisable to undertake the repair promptly. The movement of the drive shafts is the reason they have a finite lifespan.

There are three seals: one for the input from the propshaft and two for the left and right drive shafts. You will need to inspect to determine which one is leaking.

Greetings, I recently completed my MOT and received an advise indicating a minor leak from the rear differential seals. Is anyone aware of the root of this issue and its severity? The vehicle is a BMW F32 4 Series diesel with a 2.0-liter engine. Thank you.

I am experiencing a distinct problem with my automated main beam. When temperatures fall below zero, the default setting activates the main beam continuously, and the sole method to deactivate it is to turn off the lights entirely. Suboptimal! Fortunately, I reside in a region of the UK that does not frequently experience really low temperatures.

I appreciate the information; thank you for sharing.

That is customary; it is their expected duty. I possess a 2021 CX-30 Preferred equipped with automated headlights and auto high beams.

Thank you! It was indeed drizzling, which may have contributed to it.

The automatic system may have been temporarily disabled, which occasionally occurs in my vehicle as well. This can be due to debris, adverse weather conditions, etc., causing the system to be uncertain about the operation of the lights (I possess adaptive headlights). I consulted my mechanic, and this phenomenon is considered normal; I have only observed it during rain and fog.

I am uncertain whether I overlooked this previously or if it is a recent occurrence. I have configured my headlights to automatic for activation and high/low beam adjustment. While driving home last night on a backroad, I saw that each time the blue high beam indicator on the dashboard extinguished due to an impending vehicle, the green indicator also turned off. The headlights functioned properly externally; nevertheless, I recall that the green indicator light on the dashboard consistently illuminated when in use, regardless of whether the high beams were activated or deactivated. Has anyone else observed this on their devices? Thank you!

Continue producing those gastronomic creations. 👍

I did not use stretch bolts on the W211; I reused the existing ones. Apologies, I cannot recall the torque as it is not included in the extensive thread I created.