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It is clear, thank you. Then, what problems did you encounter?

Even with a single adjustment, I've experienced compatibility concerns with Aerosus. Required the complementary one on the opposite side. Ultimately cost more than buying one authentic one separately would have. That was a lesson for me 😉

It was completely fake. They still haven't revealed the source, but I'm guessing Aerosus.

Were they using an Aerosus knockoff or the real deal?

On the left side of the back of my 2013 E63 estate, I could hear a knocking sound. After I brought it to a nearby MB specialist, they advised me to get a new shocker. I got the shocker changed, but on the drive home I discovered that the adaptive suspension button was frozen on one light, making it impossible to manipulate. Returned it, and he informed me that they are unable to reprogram the level sensor at this time. So I scheduled the installation of a new level sensor. However, after they finished the job, he contacted me to inform me that they had encountered a another issue—the right shocker's valves were no longer functioning. He then informed me that I also needed a shocker on that side since the adaptive suspension was still not functioning properly. When I returned home and checked on the vehicle the following day, I noticed that the suspension had significantly lowered. Before now, I've never experienced this issue. Is there something suspicious going on here, or is this just a coincidence? I am grateful.

What an ordeal! Fortunately, we have a night charging station at home and will utilise the one from Lidl in case of an emergency.

https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/the-public-charge-point-regulations-2023-guidance/public-charge-point-regulations-2023-guidance

I would have thought so, too. The purpose of the Public Charge Point Regulations 2023 in the United Kingdom is precisely that. In reality, Pod Point (now called Pod Energy) has been slow to accept "roaming" credentials in order to initiate a charge, and at the moment, they only support Zap Map's software in addition to their own. Accepting the credentials of at least one other account provider is all that is required by law. They have completed Zap Map. This is known as malevolent compliance. Without exception, they carry out the bare minimum of what is required of them by law.

Alright, I appreciate the good news. I am also a customer of Octopus, and I have also signed up with Electroverse as soon as possible. So, should I just be able to use Electroverse to pay when I use Tesco's Pod?

According to the regulations, "...existing charge points of 50kW and above must offer contactless to consumers." This includes nearly all CCS2 and CHAdeMO systems. Also, Pod Point and Pod Energy are the lone wolves when it comes to contactless payment systems and Electroverse. I've managed to get InstaVolt, Gridserve, and Pod Point apps—the latter two of which are useful for night-time discount rates but not for Electroverse. Electroverse chargers are compatible with Lidl and Sainsbury's. Morrisons is now using MFG, which is far more dependable than GeniePoint, although both are on Electroverse.

The UK has a cut-off date of 24 November 2024 for all quick chargers to begin accepting contactless payment. Due to the impracticality of many older designs, they are not legally required to be retrofitted onto charge stations that were established prior to this.

Contactless bank (credit or debit) cards are now a mandatory payment method for all quick charges. The blue plug on the dual-headed charger is the CHAdeMO signal for an older Leaf. Although I've found that many AC charging stations do, I keep my Electroverse RFID card in the car because that's its whole purpose—to pay for charging.

Greetings, my wife would want to charge our 24kwh Nissan Leaf occasionally at one of the public charger ports. However, she is not tech-savvy and is hesitant to use her debit card to pay. We spotted one in a LIDL parking lot; does anyone know of any other places we can discover ones in the area? I am grateful.

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Sure, the system only functions over 25 mph, but I really like this feature. Even if there are parts of Puerto Rico that are dark, the system for turning on street lights works great, at least in my opinion.

Additionally, I normally keep this high beam setting disabled where I live because it blinds individuals strolling down the road.

Just curious as to why they automatically turn on at some points along the road but not at others; I'm not driving anywhere that requires them. Joined this community because the people here are so helpful and willing to share what they know.

Every time I go to a certain place, my high lights go out and blind everybody else on the road, even if there isn't a car just ahead of me. Having learned this, the next time I drive through that area, I will off the automatic high beam feature. In my opinion, the radar and/or camera are being obscured because the area is located near the valley floor, where it flattens out. Thus, it is undeniably imperfect. The majority of the time, nevertheless, it serves its intended purpose. Having the high lights turned on is unnecessary when you're in a densely populated region. You can't expect to outdrive low-beam headlights unless you're travelling at highway speeds.

Yes, if you're referring to exterior lights instead of inner ones. At specific speeds, you can activate either the high beam or low beam functions, or the adaptive headlights (ALH). They all range from 19 to 25 mph, with the exception of ALH's Highway mode, which operates at 65.2 mph or faster. Refer to the handbook for instructions.

I wouldn't consider this a "need" or even notice its absence as I've never had a car with this feature before. Having said that, I'm more interested in knowing whether other CX-30 owners have experienced intermittent issues with this function. On occasion, the auto-bright feature performs exactly as I would anticipate it to under ideal conditions; this occurs on the same route night after night, with the same street illumination and everything. On other occasions, the lights don't automatically switch on. One possible explanation is that the 25 mph speed limit in this gated community is not high enough to activate the technology. Like I said before, I'm used to manually switching between low and high beams when needed, so this isn't a huge concern for me. Nonetheless, I find it intriguing.

No saved codes; I just hooked up a plug-in scanner (Autolink Autel AL519) that my company uses for the vehicles. On the other hand, I did notice that the MAP sensor measurement never budged from its ideal 100.0 kPa. It was stable throughout the tests, unlike the others. After looking it up online, the MAF sensor read 7.87 g/s, which looks a bit high. Does anyone think they could comply if asked? In any case, I might end up switching them out. Disqualify them.

The only thing I've been doing is utilising a BT OBD2 scanner with an iPhone app. Wasn't looking to spend any more money, but I suppose the more costly ones read more control units. Since this whole ordeal started, the water temperature has been quite unpredictable, and I still don't know why; if anyone has any insight into this, I'd greatly appreciate it. Fortunately, it now appears to run better, and the engine temperature indicator is less erratic. the current state of the issue posting is simply limp. After 18 months, if you remedy this, I could even begin to enjoy her! 😄

Tell me which scanner you're using. It is possible that a code in another system is causing the problem; a comprehensive scan could reveal it. For instance, there was no problem with the engine, yet the automobile went limp. The exhaust flap problem code was actually located in a subsystem, not the engine. The engine turned off after I removed this code. The problem persisted despite the exhaust flap replacement, proving that a code recorded elsewhere had an effect on the engine management system.

After doing smoke tests and vacuum tests at various locations throughout the system this evening, I'm relieved to report that everything is in working order. Similarly, I'm relieved to report that no leaks were identified in the air intake system. Changing the boost pressure sensor is the next thing I'll attempt. Can somebody tell me if trying to smoke the exhaust system was worth it? I'm at a loss as to what to do when neither the engine light nor the fault code can provide any guidance.

Greetings to everyone here, My vehicle is a W176 2014 2.1 cdi. fixed a DPF fault and an exhaust pressure sensor fault since I purchased it; still working through a few other difficulties. I was a heavy-vehicle mechanic for a while, but I left that field years ago. Lately, I've been thinking that maybe a boost fault is to blame when the car goes into limp mode at higher speeds and boost levels, albeit it happens less frequently while idling. I have examined the vacuum lines and air intake lines for signs of wear, but they appear to be in good condition. Last night, I conducted a smoke test. I started by checking the vacuum line that goes to the brake cylinder on the bulkhead (I forget its name), and it came back clear. Then, I moved the air intake unit to the area after the air filter to see if there was a problem. To my surprise, I discovered an oil leak that I had never noticed before. It was discovered that the leak was caused by loose screws on the rocker cover. After I snugged them all, I did a smoke test once more, and the leakage stopped. My question now is whether smoke should have been present there initially. I can't recall why smoke from the air intake pipe would wind up in the rocker cover; it's been so long since I played the game. After tightening the screws, I put the car through its paces on the road, but it still goes into limp mode when I apply too much boost pressure or rev too quickly. Has anyone ever smoke-tested anything before, so I'm not sure if there are certain points to test or if I should use a variety of pipes. Would be eternally grateful for any assistance.