WanderlustGuru

Greetings, Activating sport mode will initiate the engine automatically.

They need not be XL [Edit: for the MHEV]. The Toyo original equipment tires are SL rated with a load capacity of 107.

Your dealer is either deceitful or incompetent. Request a detailed explanation of how one of those tires fails to comply with Mazda's specifications.

My primary confusion is to the 4MATIC system, rather than the potential protrusion of the rims from the fender.

The new wheels with an offset of 33 will protrude 10mm more than the appropriate ET of 42 - 46.

Consider detaching the crankcase breather tube and operating the vehicle (venting the crankcase to the environment as was customary in earlier automobiles). Your assertion that the issue originates from the exhaust and beneath the bonnet suggests a potential pressure problem caused by a clogged PCV line. I am not quite certain of the configuration of these engines (I can investigate more), but in most cases, the crankcase breather will experience positive pressure during boost and negative pressure (vacuum) during idle. It seems that there may be excessive pressure in the crankcase, causing oil to leak from certain seals under the hood and beyond the turbocharger.

This strongly suggests that the swirl flaps are causing the vehicle to enter limp mode. During the first startup, the swirl flap actuator does a sweep to assess the range of motion. If it identifies a deviation from specifications, it activates limp mode, but the engine management light may not illuminate. The vehicle performs the sweep just at the first startup; so, when it is subsequently turned off and restarted, the engine reverts to full power mode. Scanning it should reveal the error related to swirl flap deviation. Thank you.

Affirmative

The timing chain has fractured and obstructed the oil pickup.

Thank you!

I have fitted the bearings according to the specifications in the provided link, however they are too tight. Engine block code: BBBBA. I suppose it is four green and one yellow.

Does anybody possess the bearing size for the aforementioned item, please?

In the absence of a credible cam sensor signal, the DDE will not initiate injection. Have you verified via the sensor aperture that the cams are moving when the engine is activated?

There is no need for the hostility. I do not question your expertise. I was unaware of the concerns, which is why I am asking these questions first. I have had the vehicle for little more than two years, have driven around 20,000 miles, and have maintained it meticulously; this is the first time it has requested AdBlue.

Thank you, everyone. The text states that "you keep the tank full," however @BENZE220AMG advocates for the contrary. I was unaware of the complexities associated with using AdBlue.

My 2014 C220 D has indicated that I need to replenish the AdBlue. My independent repair technician advised me to add 10 litres, which I have done, and the notice has now disappeared. I purchased an additional 10 litres, since internet sources said that the tank had a capacity of 25 litres. Costco offers an excellent pricing of around £12 for 10 litres. What is the remaining fuel level when the warning message appears? My vehicle lacks the capability to monitor the AdBlue level on the dashboard. I want to avoid overfilling and then dealing with AdBlue spillage that requires extensive cleanup. Assistance would be appreciated.

A filter exists, but it is only accessible during a complete gearbox overhaul, since it is located deep inside, so it is not considered a service item. Each time, you get less than half the required oil; it took me six sump dumps to restore mine to pink on the six-speed gearbox. I would recommend against a power flush. A guy with a nine-speed bicycle claims he extracted an additional litre by elevating the front end during the emptying process. Additionally, check whether it is possible to reset the oil degradation counter. I performed the procedure in the six-speed using my diagnostic instrument, which confirms the presence of fresh oil. Apologies, I have not completed the 9-speed, so I am rather uncertain.

Inexpensive alternative to circumvent it 😉 Obtain a pass and thereafter remove the tape; the issue is partially resolved.

You will be able to observe. Simply cover the lights with tape and return it for retesting. You will be well.

Is neither light functioning, or is it just one?

I concur. Mazda implemented some intriguing external cost reductions throughout the grade range, except the Turbo S. No hockey stick LEDs for daytime running lights, absence of tail lights on the liftgate, and black "inline 6" emblems on the front fenders, among other features.

I would want to learn how to activate just the white LED strips instead of using the headlights as daytime running lights.

I purchased the Mazda hitch, harness, and delivery from My Mazda Part for a total of $600. The brake control harness would be more expensive than the brake/turn-signal version I purchased and would need a more complex installation process. I have completed the installation of the hitch, but I have not yet installed the harness. I completed the task alone in around 3 hours. I would not describe it as effortless. Installing the side panel sections was easy, however, the hitch is rather heavy and aligning it properly to avoid cross-threading the bolts is somewhat cumbersome. The factory hitch utilises pre-existing threaded holes on the frame. There is a YouTube video demonstrating the installation of the Curt hitch. The installation process involves using carriage bolts that need drilling holes in the frame.

I shared the same notion. The garage has informed me that they are replacing the Nox sensor with a newer one that has a slightly different number. Unfortunately, an identical replacement is not available since these sensors are no longer being made. It seems that there is a faulty component. The only solution to address the second issue, which involves the lack of communication between the Nox sensors, is to replace the other Nox sensor. This entails additional expenditure and the replacement of a functional component. I no longer have faith that this second fix will cure the problem.

It is uncommon to replace sensors in pairs, as you said. If I had been aware of that information before to the repair, I would not have proceeded with the task. Contrary to what I was informed, the issue was not resolved on the first attempt. Consequently, I am now required to bear the cost of replacing a fully functional sensor in order to rectify the problem. Therefore, I am required to make an additional payment to rectify the previous repair that I have already paid for. Additionally, if this course of action proves unsuccessful, it is quite likely that I will be compelled to undergo an emission upgrade, since I am uncertain if this will effectively resolve the issue. Subsequently, I shall be compelled to beseech that they endure.