nicebubby8

I acknowledge that my message was not entirely correct, but I aimed to make my response concise and focused. I will remember this for future answers. The assistance provided did not lead to a solution for the original poster. Any suggestions made here are speculative, and it is recommended that the individual seeks out a skilled auto electrician to accurately identify the issue.

You must locate a proficient car electrician.

It seems to me that your problems are likely due to a defective battery cell or faulty terminations. You should get the battery thoroughly checked, rather than simply using a voltmeter for a quick check. The display may indicate 12 volts, but this reading lacks significance without a suitable load. Consult a qualified vehicle electrician to examine it, since else it would be purely speculative.

Thank you. Yes, that is my understanding. This is my first experience with CarPlay, therefore I am currently familiarising myself with its unique features.

I have discovered the solution to this. This is my first experience with CarPlay, therefore I am new to using it. Being a dedicated Apple user, I was frustrated that my 2017 Dodge Durango did not have CarPlay, which was included in the 2018 model. Here is the reason for the WiFi: Wireless CarPlay uses Wi-Fi for transmitting data like as Maps and Music. Bluetooth establishes the connection, whereas the data transmission occurs via Wi-Fi. Bluetooth lacks sufficient bandwidth and requires Wi-Fi for data transmission.

The CX-90 uses a WiFi connection for CarPlay, as mentioned in another discussion. Does anybody know the reason? Is there a specific rationale for choosing WiFi over Bluetooth? Bluetooth allows for simultaneous connections to several devices, but WiFi can only connect to one device at a time. This is likely to result in more problems.

Agreed. Connecting to CarPlay manually is ineffective. Next time, I will attempt to connect to a power source to see if it resolves the issue. However, my regular approach is to just turn off the vehicle and then resume it.

Next time it occurs, I will attempt to use a wired connection. Thank you

CarPlay connects successfully around 75% of the time. To establish a connection, I need to switch the vehicle off and then restart it 25% of the time. Is anybody else encountering this?

The latch is located behind the door card and functions as the lock mechanism. The striker pin is situated on the middle pillar to which the latch secures. Search for both terms on Google to find out!

The proposed remedy by Mazda was to apply oil. Drive fast and smoothly!

It is important to ensure that the battery ground connection is both clean and securely fastened. Detach the connection and proceed to cleanse the inside of the terminal. I have been driving without any issues for over three years after experiencing identical symptoms and taking the same course of action. Additionally, I performed a disconnection and reconnection of the ECM connections in order to confirm their cleanliness and secureness. Wishing you the best of luck.

Have you attempted to reposition the ECM connectors? Could you please verify the condition of the ground? I have had a period of uninterrupted driving lasting more than four months subsequent to the aforementioned action. Wishing you the best of luck.

An same occurrence of sporadic stalling has resurfaced about one month subsequent to the replacement of the crank sensor. Based on the findings of the reading and study conducted, it is proposed that the ECM (Engine Control Module) may be the underlying factor. In lieu of making a new purchase, I aimed to experiment with re-seating the connections of the ECM. Upon inspection, I saw that the objects in question seemed to be in satisfactory condition, exhibiting no signs of corrosion or any other visible defects. This assessment was made after examining both connections thoroughly. In order to access it, however, I had to detach the battery. Upon examination, it was seen that the negative terminal had extensive corrosion throughout its inside. The external appearance of the object seemed to be immaculate, but, upon closer examination, it was seen that the internal components were only establishing contact in a narrow strip of about one millimetre in width at the upper and lower sections of the terminal. I thoroughly cleaned it with a Dremel tool and have not had any issues thereafter. Over the course of almost two months, the engine has consistently initiated combustion without any instances of stalling. I am maintaining a hopeful outlook.

I had a same issue with my 2008 CX-7 model. I had a same issue with the vehicle, which manifested itself the day subsequent to my acquisition of such vehicle from the dealership. Subsequently, a period of six months transpired, spanning from November of 2017 to April of the current year, during which no untoward events occurred. Subsequently, the issue resurfaced, manifesting with increased frequency. The illumination of the check engine light occurred after about three consecutive start cycles, followed by its subsequent deactivation. Eventually, I received a diagnostic trouble code of P0335, indicating a malfunction in the crankshaft position sensor. At that juncture, the vehicle exhibited a tendency to have frequent instances of engine stalling during operation. On the occasion that I installed the sensor, I anticipated the need to manually propel the vehicle into the garage due to the need of engaging the ignition mechanism via a series of 8 to 10 rotations. Subsequently, the vehicle started without any complications and operated impeccably for a duration of four consecutive days. However, on a subsequent occasion, when I attempted to go from my workplace, it required three successive attempts to successfully initiate the vehicle's engine. However, it has already been more than two weeks since that incident and the system has been functioning well. The engine did not start immediately on one occasion, however it did not completely fail to start. Replacing the sensor proved to be a rather straightforward task, thereby potentially resolving the issue at hand. The mounting holes exhibit a slotted design, necessitating precise alignment of the new sensor to ensure an exact positioning.

The issue was resolved by replacing the crankshaft position sensor. I have had the same issue since the purchase of my device in October of 2017. On the subsequent day after the acquisition of the vehicle, it experienced an unexpected cessation of operation during the commute to the workplace. The vehicle promptly resumed operation and the indicator light for engine diagnostics did not remain on. The dealer has consented to inspect it. The vehicle was in their possession for a duration of one week, during which the service manager would drive it home every night. However, no instances of stalling or error codes were seen. I continued using the vehicle for an additional week until the same occurrence happened once again. This event was characterised by an unexpected engine stall, devoid of any illuminated check-engine lights or diagnostic trouble codes. It is worth noting that I own a code reader, which allows me the ability to retrieve such data. Furthermore, the vehicle promptly restarted after the stall and exhibited its usual seamless performance thereafter.

One simple method for constructing a Faraday case involves the use of aluminium foil. By tearing off a one-foot section of foil and then folding it twice, one may effectively create a protective enclosure. Placing one's keys inside this enclosure completes the process, resulting in a functional Faraday case. I encourage you to try this approach. This approach demonstrates efficacy.

The 2007 E220 Elegance model is equipped with Artico upholstery. It is believed that the 'Avantgardes' were not equipped with genuine leather as a standard feature.

Between the years 2003 and 2005, a significant number of owners of the V6 model had motor replacements as a consequence of oil starvation, mostly attributed to a design flaw in the PCV valve. Could you please provide the mileage of your engine?

Vehicles without steering locks have ignition switches that are simple and inexpensive to repair. I think it's more likely to be the switch than the barrel since the barrel merely turns the switch and doesn't load it in any manner.

Again, I appreciate it very much.

I really appreciate everyone's input. This is a fantastic forum, and you all are really kind to take the time to reply. Regards

And I almost forgot...For the purposes of the manufacturer's extended warranty, I have driven 134,000 miles on this vehicle.

Your help is much appreciated. I plan to investigate the possible issue with the mass airflow sensor and replace the rear oxygen sensor. You said that you had some success in de-gunking the MAS; could you explain your method? According to my repair guide, all 1999 and newer 1.6L DOHC engines have a single mas/iat sensor. It also specifies how to test both of them, or just one if you're using a combination sensor. Over the weekend (it is my girlfriends vehicle), I plan to do the diagnostic tests (my handbook specifies a voltage test for the MAS and an ohm check for the IAT). Do you know where I may find a reasonably priced components supplier if I am unable to clean the sensor? I called the listed number for Mazdaformance, but it was no longer in operation. Once again, I appreciate it.

My vehicle is a 1999 Mazda Protege with a 1.6L manual transmission. My vehicle is performing poorly and using a lot of gas. My trouble code is P1141 and the check engine light is on. Although I have looked at general OBD II codes, I do not have access to a list of Maxda codes. My best opinion is that this is due to the PCM entering open loop mode as a result of a faulty oxygen sensor, which would explain my symptoms. It's possible that the code I derived—H02S Bank 1 sensor 2 Heater Circuit Low Input—is incorrect for a Mazda. Is there any way to decipher this code? We're open to ideas at this point.