Starcar2022

Is there absolutely no brake binding?

Is it necessary to drive the vehicle for a short period after the reset?

Approximately £1200 to £1400 for the M271, I believe.

Working almost twelve hours a day in the run-up to the new year has left me with little time for anything other than work.

I hail from Macedonia.

Thank you for the suggestion. I will consider consulting a specialist, either abroad or locally if I discover a suitable one. My Audi is not my primary vehicle; I hardly drive it, maybe once or twice a week, therefore I do not believe I can inflict harm by operating it. I am not accelerating rapidly, so, yes.

There are official Volkswagen service facilities and one dealership selling new Audis; nevertheless, the issue is that the local knowledge is lacking, and driving your vehicle to these services may result in additional complications rather than effective repairs.

I recall reading that an individual replaced the automobile battery, which resolved the issue. I am uncertain if it is feasible. If anybody have information on this matter, their insights would be welcomed.

Thank you for your response. The issue in my nation is that all the skilled technicians have emigrated, leaving only self-taught individuals. Entrusting them with a vehicle, which is rather costly by our standards, to attempt repairs they have never performed or seen is not advisable. I must transport it to an other nation.

Greetings everyone, I possess a 2009 3.0 TDI Sportback A5 with a 7-speed automatic gearbox. Occasionally, when I transition from Drive (D) to Neutral (N) and release the foot brake, the vehicle continues to advance. Conversely, when shifting from Drive (D) to Reverse (R) slowly, the car remains stationary, and pressing the accelerator merely causes the engine to rev without significant movement. I must shift to Neutral (N) to disengage the gearbox before shifting to Reverse (R) for the vehicle to move Occasionally, however seldom (having occurred just twice), it has shown a Gearbox Malfunction, resulting in restricted functioning where it fails to shift into first gear and remains in second. Restarting the engine rectifies the issue, allowing it to move into first gear without complications. The gearbox oil was replaced 11,000 km ago, coinciding with the engine oil change. Do you have any insights about the potential cause of the issue?

The battery is depleted and has to be replaced.

Exquisite. That is fairly reasonably priced in my perspective! Over the last two years, I have added around 4,000 litres of gasoline to my E320 on a daily basis. Additionally, there have been several other components that need attention. I am certain that if you pursued a completely do-it-yourself approach, your obsessive-compulsive tendencies would eventually manifest, resulting in a situation where the cost would not have been any lower. At now, I own two E class (S211) vehicles equipped with the earlier 320 type of the V6 diesel engine, and I have developed a strong affinity for this particular engine. One may argue that it is perhaps the finest contemporary diesel available, particularly if one uses the whole range as intended. I am excited to get a moderately priced and decent 2011/2012 long S or CLS Estate with a 350 diesel engine.

Dispose of and get a gasoline-powered whip.

Simply get a digital mirror dashcam that captures footage from both the front and back of your vehicle. I have placed this particular item on my vehicle, which really assists me during my travels to COSTCO when the rear compartment is already occupied. The product is called WOLFBOX G900.

Remove the pipes and attempt to exhale air through it to see whether it is clear.

Are there any modifications or adjustments made to enhance the performance of the car? Are you using conventional catalytic converters?

In 2019, I changed all four magnetic ride suspensions at a mileage of 40,000. Continuing with great endurance after an additional 20,000 units.

Excellent inquiry. Owners of Gen 2 vehicles with above 40,000 miles should respond, since this is often when Gen 1 shocks tend to have leaks.

In the Kia Connect interface, locate the option labelled "More" located at the bottom of the screen. Scroll below and choose the option labelled "Version".

I am now searching for a Ferrari, but it seems that all the owners have already acquired one. However, there are a limited number of used ones available. Additionally, there are some individuals in Ireland who are dismantling W124s, so I will attempt to contact them.

The original component number is 3437224031. The replacement part number is 3437224035, which is a genuine Bosch product. It seems to be the commonly used reference number. Thank you.

No, it has a different part number. I attempted to test the new device and found that the resistance between pin 1 and 3 was satisfactory at 4.6kohm. However, there was no reading detected between pins 1 and 2, which are responsible for deflecting the airflow plate.

Seeking enlightenment - I have at last purchased a substitute for my deteriorated pot (the one seen at the top in the picture). Nevertheless, the replacement item, shown as the bottom one in the picture, had noticeable dissimilarities. I sent the vendor of the new pot with a photograph of my old pot, and he verified that they are not compatible. Returning the new pot is not an issue. However, he does not have a suitable replacement for my old pot, and I am encountering difficulty in locating a pot with a comparable configuration elsewhere. The previous one has been reinstalled, and the vehicle is functioning well. However, it does experience some hunting. Therefore, I would really appreciate any recommendations for a good replacement potentiometer.

Are you referring to the rear differential? I would have expected it to be more coherent when combined with velocity, but it would be worthwhile to give it a go with the rear wheels elevated, even if it's only to exclude it as a possibility.