Starcar2022

In our 2019 C Class, turning off the engine switches the gearbox into Park and activates the parking brake. I only engage Park manually if the engine is running, such as when I exit to open the gates.

Uncertain about its duration, although I have observed conflicting reports from the USA indicating both prolonged and brief effectiveness. I fitted a new turbocharger to my BMW, while I returned the Volkswagen to the dealership, so I have no knowledge of its condition. However, I heard through informal channels that the new owner was quite pleased with the vehicle.

I utilised the DrTranny on two vehicles to verify the lockup clutches. I have consistently experienced an allergy to automotive boxes, hence my engagement with them is limited. Please keep us informed on the outcome.

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I experienced something similar few years ago. The issue was identified as the lockup clutches within the torque converter. To verify this, I inserted two tubes of "DrTranny" from the bay into the automatic gearbox, which resolved the issue; however, I am uncertain about the duration of this fix, as I had a new torque converter installed.

I had one that got eaten up on a VW once. I had a nut welded onto the end of the bolt so that a conventional socket would fit. A good weldist ought to be able to weld through the hole in the nut without getting anywhere near the completed surface of the wheel. After that palavla, all my locking bolts have been replaced with conventional ones on every car.

The one rationale I can conceive for their actions is that carrying both the fob and the separate key is more cumbersome than the previous fobs that included the key.

All the vehicles I have owned accumulate condensation indoors throughout fall and winter. Nonetheless, my Mazda defogs more rapidly than any of my prior German vehicles, often requiring around a minute to clear from a totally steamed state on most days. The temperature is adjusted to 20 degrees, directed towards the screen, with the air conditioning unit on. Have you deactivated your air conditioning unit? That would undoubtedly exacerbate the condensation.

Is there absolutely no brake binding?

Is it necessary to drive the vehicle for a short period after the reset?

Approximately £1200 to £1400 for the M271, I believe.

Working almost twelve hours a day in the run-up to the new year has left me with little time for anything other than work.

I hail from Macedonia.

Thank you for the suggestion. I will consider consulting a specialist, either abroad or locally if I discover a suitable one. My Audi is not my primary vehicle; I hardly drive it, maybe once or twice a week, therefore I do not believe I can inflict harm by operating it. I am not accelerating rapidly, so, yes.

There are official Volkswagen service facilities and one dealership selling new Audis; nevertheless, the issue is that the local knowledge is lacking, and driving your vehicle to these services may result in additional complications rather than effective repairs.

I recall reading that an individual replaced the automobile battery, which resolved the issue. I am uncertain if it is feasible. If anybody have information on this matter, their insights would be welcomed.

Thank you for your response. The issue in my nation is that all the skilled technicians have emigrated, leaving only self-taught individuals. Entrusting them with a vehicle, which is rather costly by our standards, to attempt repairs they have never performed or seen is not advisable. I must transport it to an other nation.

Greetings everyone, I possess a 2009 3.0 TDI Sportback A5 with a 7-speed automatic gearbox. Occasionally, when I transition from Drive (D) to Neutral (N) and release the foot brake, the vehicle continues to advance. Conversely, when shifting from Drive (D) to Reverse (R) slowly, the car remains stationary, and pressing the accelerator merely causes the engine to rev without significant movement. I must shift to Neutral (N) to disengage the gearbox before shifting to Reverse (R) for the vehicle to move Occasionally, however seldom (having occurred just twice), it has shown a Gearbox Malfunction, resulting in restricted functioning where it fails to shift into first gear and remains in second. Restarting the engine rectifies the issue, allowing it to move into first gear without complications. The gearbox oil was replaced 11,000 km ago, coinciding with the engine oil change. Do you have any insights about the potential cause of the issue?

The battery is depleted and has to be replaced.

Exquisite. That is fairly reasonably priced in my perspective! Over the last two years, I have added around 4,000 litres of gasoline to my E320 on a daily basis. Additionally, there have been several other components that need attention. I am certain that if you pursued a completely do-it-yourself approach, your obsessive-compulsive tendencies would eventually manifest, resulting in a situation where the cost would not have been any lower. At now, I own two E class (S211) vehicles equipped with the earlier 320 type of the V6 diesel engine, and I have developed a strong affinity for this particular engine. One may argue that it is perhaps the finest contemporary diesel available, particularly if one uses the whole range as intended. I am excited to get a moderately priced and decent 2011/2012 long S or CLS Estate with a 350 diesel engine.

Dispose of and get a gasoline-powered whip.

Simply get a digital mirror dashcam that captures footage from both the front and back of your vehicle. I have placed this particular item on my vehicle, which really assists me during my travels to COSTCO when the rear compartment is already occupied. The product is called WOLFBOX G900.

Remove the pipes and attempt to exhale air through it to see whether it is clear.

Are there any modifications or adjustments made to enhance the performance of the car? Are you using conventional catalytic converters?

In 2019, I changed all four magnetic ride suspensions at a mileage of 40,000. Continuing with great endurance after an additional 20,000 units.