Starcar2022

I had my screen repaired by an insurance company, but it may have been damaged by a significant road chip.

Why don't you just replace the two motors inside the old one? I had the similar issue with the driving door and ultimately purchased a replacement from JLR for £180. It seems that they are now sending any components for ££.

He confirms that he examined the brake pedal region and, while there is a clear designated place for a brake stop-light switch, none is now equipped in his automobile. Who has knowledge?

"That suggests that we are examining distinct sensors." The one I am referring about is located at the pedal above your feet. I am quite pleased that I inquired! Initially, I inquired about the ease of accessing the switch located at the pedal. However, he provided reassurance that the switch was really situated on the brake cylinder/servo, rather than at the pedal. It is possible that he did not see the sensor and instead made an assumption that the stop-light switch was the sensor responsible for sensing brake-fluid pressure. This observation maybe elucidates the lack of efficacy in deactivating the brake lights when withdrawing the connection. It brings to mind the informal slogan of the RAF: "Never make assumptions, verify!" I will instruct him to engage in physical exertion and locate the pedal switch.

hat seems to be a strategy. I express my sincere gratitude. Are you referring to the concept of a "open circuit when pressed" or a "closed circuit"? Based on your description, it seems that the circuit is ground-side-switched. This means that when the pedal is pushed, one of the three wires will be connected to the ground, and the other two wires will also be connected to the ground, thereby completing the circuit. However, as you have said, doing the test will be rather straightforward, given my understanding of the rationale for the presence of three cables. The testing of the item is expected to be conducted on Sunday or a later date. I will provide a report then. It is anticipated that the design would be such that the removal of the switch will not result in any leakage of braking fluid. Thank you so much for your help. If it were my own vehicle, I would not hesitate to do the task without seeking guidance and experience from others. However, I am reluctant to cause damage to someone else's automobile while attempting to assist them. It seems that they already have enough issues with their vehicle without my involvement. Surprisingly, there was a scarcity of information on the Internet about the "circuit 30 reset". While it is widely acknowledged as a legitimate method and terminology accepted by Mercedes, there is a noticeable lack of information when searching for "what is a..." or "how to do a..." on the Internet. Thank you one again, having knowledge of the purpose of those three wires has been very beneficial. I anticipate returning after the weekend.

Thank you for your prompt response. Unacquainted with the process of doing a circuit 30 reset, which involves temporarily deactivating the SAM. I assume that the technique, or more precisely, its impact, is significantly distinct from just detaching the battery for a little while. I lack the means to get a wiring schematic. I have conducted a search specifically to get information on the brake switch, in order to determine the most effective method for testing it. The presence of three wires on the switch first led me to question if the brake switch functioned as a potentiometer, measuring the rate of pedal force application. However, after seeing other photographs of Mercedes brake switch wiring on the Internet, such as those depicting 5/6 wire switches, I now conclude that it is a straightforward switch. In the case of a 2-wire switch, the process of testing would be readily apparent, even in the absence of a wiring schematic. An attempt was made to detach the connection; still, the brake lights remained illuminated (and the gearbox was securely locked in Park). However, this outcome did not provide any significant information, since it is likely that disengaging the switch would have resulted in the activation of the brake lights anyway. I would really appreciate your guidance on the optimal testing method for the switch, considering its 3-wire connection, or on how to imitate the switch at the junction. In the absence of a technical handbook or data, the owner would really appreciate any recommendations for acquiring wiring schematics that are of high quality, lucid, and precise. I appreciate your confirmation on the 30mA sleep current. The battery has seen depletion on two recent occasions, which seems to be a cause for concern. The owner saw the activation of the lights throughout the early hours. The alarm siren did not sound, however, he claims that there is never a siren when the alarm is activated. However, we are closely monitoring the situation and collecting further information about any clear trends.

The vehicle in question is a 2003 CClass diesel W203. The rear brake light remains consistently on when the ignition is turned on. Additionally, I am receiving ESP and BAS alerts on the dashboard, as well as a notice that the brake lights are on, prompting me to go to the repair. A significant number of fault codes are seen on a scanner in relation to ESP and CAN communications. The scanners also exhibit a persistent malfunction on the back SAM, namely B1048, circuit 54, resulting in a short circuit to B+. Upon the cessation of vehicle operation, the rear SAM enters a state of dormancy within a mere minute, although maintaining a current consumption of 30mA throughout this sleep phase. Although it seems too high, the alarm module is connected to the rear SAM, suggesting that it may be within the expected range. Based on my research, I suspect that the ESP fault codes associated with CAN communications may also be linked to issues with the rear SAM. Therefore, I am curious: is a 30mA parasitic drain at the rear SAM a typical occurrence, or does it indicate that the short circuit B1048 fault diagnostic is a legitimate fault, implying that the rear SAM should be sent for testing? I would much appreciate any advice. I am endeavouring to aid a companion.

If there is no little reset hole, the reset option is likely located in the menu settings. Alternatively, another member who has the same radio may provide advice.

To address the missing clock, you must reset the radio equipment. Locate the little hole at the top of the device and use a pen or similar object to push into the hole to reset the unit. Your clock should return.

The photo was taken in 2011 while the forum hosted meetings. This was taken at St Mary's Lighthouse in Whitley Bay. Regrettably, that was one of our last encounters. The members lacked the will to organise any further. The rising fuel costs and other challenges rendered it unfeasible to proceed.

Same here 😞 Continuing with Mazda anyway 🙂 It's pleasant to see that some familiar people are still around.

It seems that it is no longer available. https://vehicleenquiry.service.gov.uk/VehicleFound?locale=en

Do you mean this one?

ok,thanks 😁

Regards, I mistakenly believed that the USB discs were formatted as FAT32.

Greetings, everyone, I have a few inquiries about my just acquired Rio. The vehicle is equipped with an inflating kit instead of a spare tyre. KIA no longer provides the spare wheel kit for my vehicle model, only for those manufactured from 2017 forward. Is the RoadHero RH008 Space Saver Spare Wheel & Tyre Kit appropriate as a replacement for a Kia Rio [Mk3] 11-17? Any user feedback on this product? My radio with a USB input is displaying an error message when I try to play music from a new USB drive. Could the issue be related to the disc capacity (128GB) or the radio's compatibility with certain file types? Thank you

I am sceptical. The mileage readings of the CX-90 are consistently 2 to 3 miles higher than the actual distance travelled. It seems to be less precise while driving in urban areas. My typical fuel efficiency is around 22 mpg in city driving, 24-25 mpg with motorway travel, and 30-31 mpg on the highway, which is similar to or slightly better than the EPA estimates. The car's size is good, however the gas mileage indicator is unreliable and consistently inaccurate.

Have you successfully identified the underlying problem? I am encountering a same issue with my 2021 CX-30 vehicle.

The Hazet variant that I own is a fantastic piece of engineering. Redline emerges as the victor. I try to use their respective fluids in many applications, with the exception of motor oil due to financial constraints.

The situation at hand exhibits a comprehensive concealment of problems. I possess copious amounts of electronic correspondence and encountered difficulties, all of which will imminently be disseminated to multiple media platforms. The extent of the car's inadequacy is truly astonishing. Furthermore, there appears to be a lack of regulation concerning the entitlements of individuals who purchase these vehicles when faced with malfunctions. I extend my utmost well wishes and express my satisfaction that you have come to the realisation that the aforementioned action was not intended to ridicule you.

There were no instances of individuals engaging in mockery towards you. It is widely recognised within the United Kingdom that Mazda's typical response to reported faults is to assert that they have never encountered such issues before, despite the fact that numerous individuals have indeed experienced them. It would be beneficial for you to join the CX 60 Owners Club Facebook page, as doing so will provide you with insight into the aforementioned comment directed at Mazda. Mazda consistently disseminates falsehoods to their clientele, a statement supported by factual evidence. Please refer to my previous statement on the matter: The vehicle priced at $50,000 exhibits condensation on the glass under warm weather conditions. It is worth contemplating the potential severity of this issue during the months of January and February next year. This situation is deemed unsatisfactory.

Could you please clarify your statement? The "Mazda" brand has not been before seen.

My vehicle was photographed in early September during a period of warm weather. It is very absurd to see such a significant amount of condensation on a newly purchased automobile valued at $50,000. It is worth noting that I have refrained from driving the vehicle since then, as it has been undergoing repairs at a Mazda dealership due to the presence of seven defects. The automobile is of poor quality.

Was the rental car provided by Mazda?

I have seen the aforementioned film, and it has a considerable degree of informational value. In my perspective, the individual in question has used the term "problems" in an erroneous manner. It would be more precise to use the term "concerns"; but, this alternative phrasing may not generate a comparable level of online engagement. Fuel injection, ABS brakes, power steering, and catalytic converters were considered to be superfluous complexities. There is a lack of complaints about these matters in contemporary times. In the event of a power steering failure, the necessary repairs are undertaken to rectify the issue. Indeed, automobiles have seen a significant increase in complexity, resulting in a corresponding rise in maintenance costs. However, Mazda, along with other brands such as Toyota and Koenigsegg, faces the same challenge.