Starcar2022

You may attempt to reset the electrical system by disconnecting one of the battery connections and seeing whether it resolves the issue. There may be a fault code that is still saved.

Allow me to provide my perspective on this matter, since it is still fresh in my mind and I can empathise with your frustration. Initially, I was also considering purchasing a secondhand item. The way you were examining the 17-18 Plus is comparable to how I was evaluating the updated generation 1 2014-2015 models. I would like a V10 engine, with a manual gearbox, however an S-tronic gearbox would also be OK. During my first experience in a R8, I had the opportunity to drive an 18 Plus model, which I quite enjoyed. However, I personally had a taste for the body shape of the 14-15 or 2020+ versions. The 17-18 model years sound quite impressive. When I began shopping in 2021, the prices of 2014-2015 model years in Canada started increasing significantly, sometimes even surpassing the price of a brand-new 2021 RWD. I submitted the order for it. Initially, I was dissatisfied with the absence of carbon choices. However, due to my purchase being delayed until the 2023 model year, they have now provided the option of carbon fibre sideblades. That is precisely what I wanted above anything else (rather than enclosing). I first desired an interior carbon finish and a carbon engine bay. However, I soon realised that if this aspect troubled me much, I could easily get these features from suppliers such as R8-stuff (Osman). Now that many months have passed after the birth, I have not been very concerned about the issue mentioned above. The interior is of high quality, despite in the absence of some elements. Upon reflection, I am uncertain whether I would have made any other choices. Perhaps I would have contemplated purchasing the Quattro just because my automobile was free from luxury tax, resulting in significant savings compared to their current pricing with the luxury tax. Regarding the RWD/AWD. I have not experienced any decrease in confidence when driving the vehicle at maximum speed. However, my main intention is to use it mostly on pleasant, sunny days. Neither rain nor cold deterred me from using my vehicle. Although it was difficult to store it during the winter season, I would not have driven it even if it had all-wheel drive. In reference to the disadvantages you have enumerated: The car's performance remains very fast, even if it has a lower horsepower compared to the AWD model. I highly recommend watching the Carwow video comparing the 2023 Rear-Wheel Drive (RWD) model, the 2023 All-Wheel Drive (AWD) Spyder, and the 2023 Rear-Wheel Drive (RWD) GT. The conventional rear-wheel drive (RWD) performed exceptionally and even emerged victorious in some races, starting from a stationary position. The presence of a limiter is undeniable, but it has not been a significant concern. The valve closing between 3K-5K might be bothersome. The exhaust button on the steering wheel is often replaced with aftermarket options or controlled by a valve controller. I am contemplating the valve controller based on the information provided. I do mostly street driving, therefore I didn't have a preference between steel and ceramic materials. I first desired a permanent wing for the object in question, but I have now developed an appreciation for its movable nature and the convenience of utilising a button to adjust its height. It amuses me, to say the least. Carbon fibre exterior is an optional feature that will be offered for the 2023 model, but only if specifically requested. I have not considered purchasing an interior or carbon fibre engine bay since I received the delivery. The majority of their desires were expressed prior to actually acquiring the automobile. Overall, I have no regrets about my choice to purchase a new vehicle, especially since it came with a complete 4-year factory warranty and maintenance package. This additional benefit provided me with even more reassurance and satisfaction, despite the fact that it may not have been the exact year or specification I had initially desired. Ultimately, it is a R8, equipped with the same, pleasingly resonant V10 engine. Hopefully, that provided some assistance. 😎

£1.99

Previously, I was employed by a former member of REME, who explained that the acronym stood for "Rough Engineering Made Easy!"

I made a statement, accompanied by many words starting with the letters B, F, and maybe a few further ones.

Examining the Rover After a day of exploring a route for a scheduled rig relocation in Baluchistan (Pakistan), I accidentally swung a wrench over the +ve, my metal watch strap, and a section of the automobile. This caused a loud spark and profanity as the watch strap had welded shut and felt like it was burning through my wrist. Used a screwdriver to remove the strap and remove the watch from one of the boys. He had a sensation of coldness. There are two little circular scars on the inside of the left wrist that are still partially visible today. These scars occurred in 1975.

It is vital to note that after the slave battery has been attached, the main leads remain operational. Therefore, while disengaging the main battery, it is crucial to ensure that the battery leads do not come into contact with any significant objects, whether they are located on the vehicle or on the user. In the past, I had a bite from a fully charged heavy duty Land Rover battery, resulting in enduring physical scars.

It is evident that they are experiencing issues with gasoline tank leaks, exorbitant servicing costs, and other difficulties. However, it is difficult to recall the specific evaluations provided by honest John.

I had my screen repaired by an insurance company, but it may have been damaged by a significant road chip.

Why don't you just replace the two motors inside the old one? I had the similar issue with the driving door and ultimately purchased a replacement from JLR for £180. It seems that they are now sending any components for ££.

He confirms that he examined the brake pedal region and, while there is a clear designated place for a brake stop-light switch, none is now equipped in his automobile. Who has knowledge?

"That suggests that we are examining distinct sensors." The one I am referring about is located at the pedal above your feet. I am quite pleased that I inquired! Initially, I inquired about the ease of accessing the switch located at the pedal. However, he provided reassurance that the switch was really situated on the brake cylinder/servo, rather than at the pedal. It is possible that he did not see the sensor and instead made an assumption that the stop-light switch was the sensor responsible for sensing brake-fluid pressure. This observation maybe elucidates the lack of efficacy in deactivating the brake lights when withdrawing the connection. It brings to mind the informal slogan of the RAF: "Never make assumptions, verify!" I will instruct him to engage in physical exertion and locate the pedal switch.

hat seems to be a strategy. I express my sincere gratitude. Are you referring to the concept of a "open circuit when pressed" or a "closed circuit"? Based on your description, it seems that the circuit is ground-side-switched. This means that when the pedal is pushed, one of the three wires will be connected to the ground, and the other two wires will also be connected to the ground, thereby completing the circuit. However, as you have said, doing the test will be rather straightforward, given my understanding of the rationale for the presence of three cables. The testing of the item is expected to be conducted on Sunday or a later date. I will provide a report then. It is anticipated that the design would be such that the removal of the switch will not result in any leakage of braking fluid. Thank you so much for your help. If it were my own vehicle, I would not hesitate to do the task without seeking guidance and experience from others. However, I am reluctant to cause damage to someone else's automobile while attempting to assist them. It seems that they already have enough issues with their vehicle without my involvement. Surprisingly, there was a scarcity of information on the Internet about the "circuit 30 reset". While it is widely acknowledged as a legitimate method and terminology accepted by Mercedes, there is a noticeable lack of information when searching for "what is a..." or "how to do a..." on the Internet. Thank you one again, having knowledge of the purpose of those three wires has been very beneficial. I anticipate returning after the weekend.

Thank you for your prompt response. Unacquainted with the process of doing a circuit 30 reset, which involves temporarily deactivating the SAM. I assume that the technique, or more precisely, its impact, is significantly distinct from just detaching the battery for a little while. I lack the means to get a wiring schematic. I have conducted a search specifically to get information on the brake switch, in order to determine the most effective method for testing it. The presence of three wires on the switch first led me to question if the brake switch functioned as a potentiometer, measuring the rate of pedal force application. However, after seeing other photographs of Mercedes brake switch wiring on the Internet, such as those depicting 5/6 wire switches, I now conclude that it is a straightforward switch. In the case of a 2-wire switch, the process of testing would be readily apparent, even in the absence of a wiring schematic. An attempt was made to detach the connection; still, the brake lights remained illuminated (and the gearbox was securely locked in Park). However, this outcome did not provide any significant information, since it is likely that disengaging the switch would have resulted in the activation of the brake lights anyway. I would really appreciate your guidance on the optimal testing method for the switch, considering its 3-wire connection, or on how to imitate the switch at the junction. In the absence of a technical handbook or data, the owner would really appreciate any recommendations for acquiring wiring schematics that are of high quality, lucid, and precise. I appreciate your confirmation on the 30mA sleep current. The battery has seen depletion on two recent occasions, which seems to be a cause for concern. The owner saw the activation of the lights throughout the early hours. The alarm siren did not sound, however, he claims that there is never a siren when the alarm is activated. However, we are closely monitoring the situation and collecting further information about any clear trends.

The vehicle in question is a 2003 CClass diesel W203. The rear brake light remains consistently on when the ignition is turned on. Additionally, I am receiving ESP and BAS alerts on the dashboard, as well as a notice that the brake lights are on, prompting me to go to the repair. A significant number of fault codes are seen on a scanner in relation to ESP and CAN communications. The scanners also exhibit a persistent malfunction on the back SAM, namely B1048, circuit 54, resulting in a short circuit to B+. Upon the cessation of vehicle operation, the rear SAM enters a state of dormancy within a mere minute, although maintaining a current consumption of 30mA throughout this sleep phase. Although it seems too high, the alarm module is connected to the rear SAM, suggesting that it may be within the expected range. Based on my research, I suspect that the ESP fault codes associated with CAN communications may also be linked to issues with the rear SAM. Therefore, I am curious: is a 30mA parasitic drain at the rear SAM a typical occurrence, or does it indicate that the short circuit B1048 fault diagnostic is a legitimate fault, implying that the rear SAM should be sent for testing? I would much appreciate any advice. I am endeavouring to aid a companion.

If there is no little reset hole, the reset option is likely located in the menu settings. Alternatively, another member who has the same radio may provide advice.

To address the missing clock, you must reset the radio equipment. Locate the little hole at the top of the device and use a pen or similar object to push into the hole to reset the unit. Your clock should return.

The photo was taken in 2011 while the forum hosted meetings. This was taken at St Mary's Lighthouse in Whitley Bay. Regrettably, that was one of our last encounters. The members lacked the will to organise any further. The rising fuel costs and other challenges rendered it unfeasible to proceed.

Same here 😞 Continuing with Mazda anyway 🙂 It's pleasant to see that some familiar people are still around.

It seems that it is no longer available. https://vehicleenquiry.service.gov.uk/VehicleFound?locale=en

Do you mean this one?

ok,thanks 😁

Regards, I mistakenly believed that the USB discs were formatted as FAT32.

Greetings, everyone, I have a few inquiries about my just acquired Rio. The vehicle is equipped with an inflating kit instead of a spare tyre. KIA no longer provides the spare wheel kit for my vehicle model, only for those manufactured from 2017 forward. Is the RoadHero RH008 Space Saver Spare Wheel & Tyre Kit appropriate as a replacement for a Kia Rio [Mk3] 11-17? Any user feedback on this product? My radio with a USB input is displaying an error message when I try to play music from a new USB drive. Could the issue be related to the disc capacity (128GB) or the radio's compatibility with certain file types? Thank you

I am sceptical. The mileage readings of the CX-90 are consistently 2 to 3 miles higher than the actual distance travelled. It seems to be less precise while driving in urban areas. My typical fuel efficiency is around 22 mpg in city driving, 24-25 mpg with motorway travel, and 30-31 mpg on the highway, which is similar to or slightly better than the EPA estimates. The car's size is good, however the gas mileage indicator is unreliable and consistently inaccurate.