coolguy

Is there a way to test the cable to determine if it's bad? I noticed the bolted connection going through the battery well seemed dirty, but I cleaned it out. The cable on the engine bay side seems fine.

Taking into account the positive leap and the left-hand engine bay earth point It's getting dark and chilly, so I only checked the engine to chassis ground strap, but I also fear a poor connection between the rear battery and the engine bay. I also checked bad earths.

I should probably include the codes detected on the car as well. It seems like none of these are really important and are likely caused by the electricity not being distributed correctly to the car: The following information is displayed: ID, Status, and Description: | | 1A2002 | Intermittent| The electric fan may activate for a variety of reasons, including a short circuit to ground, an open circuit, a communication fault, an intermittent LIN message indicating that the alternator is missing, and an intermittent error code of 0DA451. We did not receive a communication regarding the real steering torque driver actuator 10.0.0. When it came to the electric fan, I made sure it was spinning smoothly under load by turning on the air conditioner to full speed and other conditions. I also watched the fan activation percentage on the reader, and it moved up and down in sync with the reading.

Greetings everyone, Just had trouble starting the car; I noticed it a few weeks ago, but being the slothful person that I am, I replaced the battery in the hopes it wasn't holding charge—a 200 pound error. I believe I've isolated the problem to a power delivery issue after dragging myself out of bed one evening to conduct some diagnostics. This is a list of all the symptoms I'm experiencing. The other day, I left my car running overnight, and it started up again when I got in the morning. I took it for a short trip, and then, just five minutes after turning it off, it still wouldn't start. The voltage on the battery was 12.45 volts. A second battery can be used to jumpstart the vehicle using the front jump ports. Analysed voltage: 14.5 volts Assuming the vehicle is not in sleep mode, the current draw is 70 milliamperes. After removing the IBS sensor, the push-to-start function still does not work; the relay clicks audibly. The following readings were recorded when the voltage under load and crank was measured directly from the battery in the boot: turned off at 12.6 volts 1.25 volts for ignition and 12.2 volts for cranking for measurements taken at the front jump ports starting at 11.6 volts with a 0.4 volt cranking electrical system When I tried to start it with jump leads after transferring the battery from the back boot to the engine block, I heard a clicking sound reminiscent of a machine gun. I've heard that the positive cable that runs from the battery to the engine compartment is faulty. Conversely, I believe the automobile should have started because the battery was connected to the battery jump starters. I'd be very grateful for any recommendations or suggestions for items to try. Even though I enjoy a good puzzle, I am completely overwhelmed by this one. Though

As predicted, the Hyundai came in dead last by a wide margin. This is a perfect illustration of how excellent the CX90 drive train is, which is interesting because so many people seem to have problems with it. One illustration of their overall engineering is seeing the pallisade AWD system struggle in snow.

most likely the module and glow plugs

I previously owned a 1983 Skoda Super Estelle equipped with a 1.3-liter engine located at the rear of the vehicle. The radiator was in front, as was the boot. Despite its robust construction, this Skoda included coolant pipes extending from the rear engine to the front radiator. Additionally, distinct pipes were installed to connect to the cabin heater. The engine technology was distinctly reminiscent of the 1970s, akin to that of a Morris Minor; yet, it functioned very well for its time, representing the pinnacle of Eastern European engineering. The heater took an excessive amount of time to generate warm air during winter, much alone directing it onto the windscreen to defrost or defog; nevertheless, once the heat commenced, it was relentless. It was specifically engineered for the frigid Arctic winters on the continent. I recall a significant snowstorm impacting London approximately 25 years ago, during which the Skoda effortlessly withstood the incessant snowfall. Excellent traction on snow, attributed to the rear engine's weight over the back axle. As long as you didn’t throw the car around in the snow…!!! We are privileged to have remote climate control capabilities via our smartphones and efficient heat pumps that can do rapid defrosting. Isn’t the evolution of technology fascinating?

I was particularly surprised by the absence of ambient lighting strips in the doors of my C-HR. I was really disheartened to see that my Design Trim PHEV lacked this feature, which I had anticipated, and my research had led me to believe it would be included. Curse you, Autotrader, for your deceptive specifications list!

The very first result on Google. Exhale.

Daily Mail? It is advisable to disregard it.

I found it quite enjoyable. Ample interior space. Acquire 4 Spec and you possess all the equipment.

The hybrid Niro does not require charging. Only a Plug-in Hybrid Electric Vehicle (PHEV) operates in this manner, particularly when not charged at home. Consequently, I would refrain from acquiring a PHEV. This is the outcome I derived from my HEV.

Would you not simply procure petrol at that point? You are correct; you are assuming certain disadvantages (complexity) without reaping the advantages (savings and environmental benefits). I am unable to provide answers to your other enquiries.

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The hybrid system includes an electric heater, an auxiliary water pump, and a changeover valve to alternate between engine coolant and the electric heater. Thus, it is not as straightforward in a forum post. I would first scan it to determine whether it provides any guidance.

There are excessively several factors, and since you are not present to physically assess and eliminate them, the recommendation is to advise individuals to seek an independent shop if they do not wish to utilise the dealer. Initial fundamental inquiry: Mileage on the odometer? What was the final transmission service ...miles? What was the mileage of the most recent brake service, and what exactly did it entail? Has the car lately been involved in any collision that resulted in undercarriage impact? If so, please specify the details. Illustration of a vehicle traversing a concrete tyre barrier in a parking lot. You are requesting advice without having inspected various components of the Mazda. The fundamental enquiries pertain to the timing of the most recent brake service and the specifics of that service. What is the mileage on the odometer? What was the most recent servicing performed on the clutch and/or gearbox? Was the ECU examined to confirm the absence of error codes? Were the mounts thoroughly inspected and found to be intact and not worn out? Were the remaining drivetrain components examined for wear or damage? Was the gear lever inspected for adequate shifting functionality without any complications? This is accomplished by detaching it from the gearbox. Are all the shift bushings in proper condition? Was the level of the gearbox fluid assessed? I apologise, but I am unable to assist you as you are seeking speculative advice, and you are not in a position to verify these straightforward enquiries through basic service experience checks.

You are discussing two entirely distinct aspects of the Mazda. My foremost proposal, given your inability to physically inspect the Mazda, is to suggest that they take it to a repair facility. Immediately address any suspected brake issues.

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I believe it is time to proceed with my plan, which has been in development for several years. I aimed to minimise risks and avoid incurring debts while establishing it. I now need to purchase one or two two-post ramps; I have already acquired most of the necessary equipment, with significant expenses incurred for an Autel device and other diagnostic tools, including a scope. Additionally, I am considering constructing a DPF cat cleaner that can wash filters without necessitating their complete removal from vehicles, particularly for all Generation 3 cars, which require subframe disassembly. The remaining tasks can be accomplished with a day’s work on the floor, and cleaning the filters in situ will save vehicle owners approximately three hours. There remains the option for complete removal and remapping as well. I already work seven days a week, typically 10 to 12 hours on weekdays and 8 hours on Saturday and Sunday.

In January, I executed a ten-year lease for my own mini specialist, to be named Mini Mike's Mini Specialist. Last week, I submitted my resignation at work, which was met with disapproval; however, I maintained a cordial demeanour and was offered incentives to remain. Nonetheless, I prefer to dedicate myself to working seventy hours a week for my own venture.

I utilise Yeo and Smith's machine shop in Plymouth, where an 81-year-old craftsman expertly grinds cranks. His ingenuity has greatly benefited me over the years. I also procure Kings bearings, which he sources in the appropriate sizes, along with rings. I utilise FAI and head bolts. FAI head gasket and FAI timing chain complete kit, including the oil pump chain kit, are excellent quality at reasonable prices. I utilise either Febi, FAI, or genuine oil pumps. Best of luck, as the initial attempt is usually challenging.

The oil pressure light is unrelated to those codes, in my opinion. It is necessary to utilise a wet oil pressure gauge to ascertain the real-time pressure. It is common for an engine to exhibit oil pressure when cold, but as it warms up, the pressure may drop to zero, triggering the warning light. Likely causes include significant wear in the cylinder head where the camshafts are located, any grooves indicating irreparable damage, and potential crankshaft damage. To assess this, remove the sump and inspect the bottom surface; any grey colouration suggests that the crankshaft is compromised.

Years ago, I discovered a method on this site for changing the rear brakes, which always results in the parking brake being set to approximately three clicks. It was excessively elevated. The rear wheels do not engage the parking brake whatsoever. Continuously modify the star wheel adjuster within the drum till the rear wheel, with the shoes only in contact with the drum, rotates around 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 revolutions before coming to a halt. At this juncture, the parking brake typically requires approximately three clicks for optimal functionality, and I have never needed to modify it, provided the rear brake shoes are well maintained. Theoretically, I could neglect the parking brake setting, but I have never encountered a problem. Three clicks are acceptable; however, if six to nine clicks are effective, that is also satisfactory to me. I consistently utilise the parking brake.

Did you also modify the cable at the lever end, beneath the centre console?