neilrr010

The paddles adjust the regenerative braking level on my EV6, but not on our 2022 Sportage PHEV. I want that they would, since I like a more assertive regeneration setup.

Mobile data must be enabled to continue receiving satellite navigation updates. Your house WiFi has a restricted range, and you will rapidly lose connectivity as you go. In addition to mobile data, it is necessary to activate the mobile hotspot and connect your phone to the vehicle. The likely reason is because PAYG is far more costly than a contract. I pay £6 per month to Sky for 2GB of data and unlimited calls and messages.

The expense of mobile data is minimal; I often use it for navigation and Spotify on 500-mile round journeys, incurring just a few cents. Downloading films or similar content incurs much higher mobile expenses.

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Thank you, everyone. I have completed approximately 7,000 miles with it, and despite its 1.5-liter Renault-derived engine, it has performed quite well. The one significant issue was the thermostat, which I replaced along with the timing belt, water pump, and auxiliary belt. The driver's seat base had split, so I procured a replacement from Germany and installed it, which was quite straightforward. Replaced the analogue climate control with a digital version featuring a reset button. I had the vehicle remapped with an eco map, as 109 horsepower was insufficient. It possesses slightly increased torque and may attain just over 76 miles per gallon on a journey, while the typical performance is in the upper 60s.

Inside, I observed a hoover cleaner and dust.

I dedicated the morning to meticulously detailing my w246 b180. With 126,000 kilometres, it still presents well. Simoniz snow foam and the two-bucket washing technique Subsequently, a machine polish was applied utilising Meguiar's Ultimate Polish, concluding with Meguiar's Gold Class paste wax. Meguiar's tyre and trim gel applied on door rubbers, tyres, and black trim.

Thank you for your response, torque2me. Initially, I considered that possibility. Both remotes had fresh batteries installed two months ago; however, one ceased functioning, prompting me to replace both batteries while I was re-soldering. I tested both remotes, and they operated correctly. As previously stated, it has remained undercover while the salt is present. However, it has been started and operated (still undercover and not driven) with both keys for approximately 30 minutes each time at speeds above idle to circulate the oil and water in the engine, both functioning adequately. Subsequently, a week later, both remotes ceased to operate simultaneously.

I will attempt that as well; thank you very much.

I hope you are mistaken; but, I shall explore other more expedient alternatives initially. Nonetheless, my intuition aligns with your recommendation. Thank you. This is not the first occurrence; previously, when my car battery in the trunk was malfunctioning, I had a new one installed, necessitating the reprogramming of both remotes. Everything functioned optimally for a period, and the new battery is currently on an excellent trickle charger. However, it is becoming increasingly frustrating, as I have inspected every fuse, among other components. Is there a method to verify the diversity antenna, as all other components in the vehicle appear to function well despite my repeated attempts? Thank you

Greetings everyone, my car is in pristine shape, a 2007 5.25d M Sport, likely in showroom condition visually. The vehicle is maintained on a reliable trickle charger during the winter months and is stored undercover, as it is not utilised in inclement weather, for around three months. The alternator and new battery have been inspected and reprogrammed by a BMW garage. However, both remotes have ceased to operate the central locking once more. This is not the first occurrence; they seem to lose their coding, despite the previous reprogramming being executed correctly. All functions operate correctly once inside the vehicle; entrance was gained using the manual key. The alarm is malfunctioning, although all internal buttons function properly, indicating that relays are operational, except for the central locking via the remotes. Any assistance or guidance would be much valued.

Your location will influence the cost.

Engine and gearbox mounts? My 2005 CLK (272) is entirely original at 92,000 miles and operates really smoothly. New electrical plate installed years before. When was the most recent oil and filter service performed?

While one may assume otherwise, Mazda acknowledges the problem, and the solution is to use a garage for parking. My dealer did not thoroughly examine the system. They said that other individuals are reporting the same issue, leading them to conclude that a solution has not yet been established. Numerous reviews and forum threads corroborate the absence of testing you referenced. If a consensus is reached among individuals, there is often some veracity to the assertion.

I first saw this discussion and resolved against purchasing the automobile; however, my wife had other intentions, amusingly enough. She purchased it nonetheless. Issues that are arising and shocking her within only 2500 miles were previously known to be possible problems. The knowledge from this site has prevented me from being too agitated when issues arise, since I anticipated their occurrence rather than being completely caught off guard. The early morning frost disabling all safety systems owing to an obstructed front camera was unexpected; nevertheless, it is the model's first winter, thus few individuals have encountered this issue. We are so dissatisfied that we are considering disposing of it after only two months. Mazda advised us to just park it in our garage to prevent that issue, although they were unwilling to finance the construction of a garage, since I currently do not own one.

Is this a revised edition, as I had seen a similar one? However, it only displays the 2014 listing for the 2.4 model, not the 2.0, and includes an AGM battery.

I appreciate this knowledge. I am perplexed as to why the dealer information indicates this, whereas other applications (O'Reilly's, AutoZone, and even AAA) assert that it should have an AGM.

The battery fits appropriately on the battery tray. The issue is that the positive terminal is encased in a box that also contains the associated fuse. When attempting to connect the positive terminal to the positive battery post, it fails to fit due to the casing surrounding the positive terminal. Although removing the casing would allow a proper connection, it is not feasible to do so, as the casing also encases the fuse and is securely attached. I prefer not to modify any components. It formerly included a 124R. However, based on my research, it seems that it requires an AGM. All h6 AGM batteries have identical specifications. The catalogues may be incorrect on the required battery type, suggesting it may be a 124R, or the H6AGM may possess a unique design from the dealer. You may only purchase from them, which I refuse to do at dealer prices.

I own a 2014 Sonata with a 2.0 engine. Request for h6 AGM battery. I have attempted to use many branded batteries with the same part number, however the positive terminal is incompatible owing to the fuse box linked to it. The 2013 model year requires a 124R battery, which is compatible with my vehicle. However, mine has ceased functioning after two months without any external reason. I had it refilled and evaluated, and it is functioning well. My web research indicates that this automobile is compatible only with an AGM battery, although I am uncertain whether they would fit. Any assistance or recommendations would be very appreciated.

Did the replacement of the Air Mass Sensor resolve the issue?

I recommend doing an initial inspection to ensure that all brake pads are in excellent condition and not too worn. Inspect the master and slave cylinder for any signs of leakage and ensure that the brakes are correctly bled, following the specific process outlined by BMW. Have you conducted a diagnostic scan to check for any fault codes shown on the dashboard?

There is no significant difference - it remains mostly unchanged. At higher speeds, the difference may be less obvious, perhaps due to the presence of additional road and wind noise.

For W205 owners: Have any of you experienced any rattling noises coming from the back, similar to the one below? The movie clearly captures the sound of the rattling, which is most pronounced between 2-6s, then again between 8-12s, and finally around 16 and 22s, as I am driving on a local road. The mobile phone holder emits a little noise, but the predominant sound is the noise itself. https://www.formesyn.com/c63/C63-W205-Rear-Rattle-1.m4v The car has been sent to Mercedes, where two new rear shocks were installed to replace a blown one that might have been causing banging sounds. Additionally, a local independent mechanic attempted to improve the fit of the boot lid, while Mercedes addressed some panels under the back seats. However, these efforts did not resolve the issue. In addition to removing the plastic covers from the lower suspension arms, I attempted to address the issue, but unfortunately, it did not provide any positive results. I have elevated it using jacks and thoroughly inspected it, but I did not see any apparent issues. The material seems to be a combination of plastic and metal, particularly evident when it produces vibrations when traversing bumps. Evidently, all the components located under the vehicle, including drop links, are in satisfactory condition. I have taken the necessary steps to remove all items from the trunk. Are there any well recognised locations to inspect?

And to place your fuses in the appropriate positions.