neilrr010

Merely a BD Original (TM) Slim. By now, you should be sufficiently acquainted with my aesthetic! It comprises content that is partially distributed among numerous MBClub discussions and posts, many of which I have contributed to, all consolidated in a single location. I recently initiated a comparable thread on tyre skip, having observed its increasing mention in recent posts, with the expectation of further discussions to follow. I proposed that instead of each individual responding to every new thread with identical information, I (and others) may respond to new threads by providing a link.

If I am banned now, I will understand the reason. 😊

The season is approaching when individuals will begin to share articles regarding their vehicles' difficulties in starting, or their complete failure to start, along with enquiries seeking assistance to diagnose elements that have ceased functioning despite the absence of an apparent defect. Owners frequently report problems that occur abruptly, noting that the vehicle functioned properly during its last use. Posts frequently assert that the lights were not inadvertently left on, that the vehicle is utilised routinely, and/or that a new battery was installed only last year, therefore ruling out these potential causes. All could stem from a malfunction, although in numerous instances, it is merely insufficient battery voltage. This occurs when we extract more energy from the battery than we replenish. The vehicle's alternator replenishes the battery while the engine operates; however, this may be insufficient to prevent a gradual decline in voltage over time. Evenings are darkening sooner, mornings are remaining dark longer, travel durations are diminishing, congestion is intensifying, and our consumption of appliances—such as heaters, heated seats, lights, wipers, and air conditioning—is escalating. This indicates that the vehicle consumes a greater amount of battery charge each minute of operation, while the alternator replenishes the battery for a reduced duration. For certain vehicles, these symptoms will appear very rapidly after the onset of autumn or winter weather. For some, the battery endures throughout autumn and winter, although not sufficiently to allow the natural seasonal transition and usage to replenish more charge than it depletes. Certain contemporary vehicles may deactivate non-essential services and features to safeguard the battery, often without any notification. Certain components exhibit high sensitivity to voltage, resulting in malfunction when the voltage is insufficient, although this may not be intentional. Main dealers, workshops, and motor factors frequently provide a new battery in such situations. If low voltage was the cause, absent any specific defects, this will alleviate symptoms in the short to medium term. However, if the vehicle continues to be utilised in the same manner, the voltage will progressively diminish once more, and the cycle will recur. Replacing the battery prematurely is both costly and unnecessary for the owner or driver, unless the battery is genuinely defective or sufficiently aged to fail in retaining a charge for a reasonable duration, thereby wasting valuable materials and energy involved in its production and distribution. Regularly charging the battery can prevent the voltage from dropping to critically low levels, hence preserving the car's functionalities and its ability to start. The process is swift and uncomplicated, and the battery may remain in the vehicle provided you possess a suitable battery charger (or "maintainer"). A mere 24-hour charge in a month will sufficiently replenish a battery, significantly mitigating the danger of low voltage problems and extending the battery's lifespan. It need not be a continuous 24-hour period and can be conducted anywhere with access to electricity, not exclusively at home. Prominent brands of battery chargers include CTEK, NOCO, and RING, along with those frequently available in the central aisles of Aldi and Lidl, which are highly esteemed. All are sufficiently adequate for infrequent use. Ensure that the charger you purchase is safe for use while the battery remains connected to the vehicle and is compatible with your car's battery type. If your vehicle is equipped with a lithium battery, it must exclusively be charged using a specialised lithium battery charger. These components are exceedingly rare and utilised exclusively in high-performance vehicles, where the substantial relative expense is warranted by the little weight. In case of uncertainty, consult the label on your battery. Ultimately, establishing a connection is uncomplicated. To charge occasionally, attach the charger’s crocodile clips to the jump start terminals located under the hood (see to your vehicle’s manual for exact instructions). Some chargers are equipped with quick-release wires that can be permanently attached for regular charging. Avoid directly attaching the charger to the battery's positive and negative terminals, since this may disrupt the vehicle's charging system and circumvent the protective mechanisms implemented by manufacturers to safeguard the car's delicate electronics.

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If the issue is confined to the jacking points, these can be repaired by welding sheet metal over them, thus restoring functionality. A few years prior, the cost was $150 per jacking point, potentially extending the lifespan by an additional 2 to 5 years. If additional components, such as the rear subframe, are compromised, it is deemed a scrapper, as further investment is unwarranted.

The door striker plate may require adjustment, or the door seal may be deteriorating.

Do you have any recommendations?

What is the quality of the 12.3-inch display? Is the processor rapid? Acceptable pixel quality, among other factors? Are there any images available? I intend to acquire Android Auto for utilising Spotify and Google Maps. I prefer the MMI multimedia unit; nevertheless, if the sound quality matches that of the concert, I am willing to compromise. I unequivocally desire Bang & Olufsen, as I wish to avoid incurring substantial expenses to upgrade the conventional system.

I am not an audiophile, but I appreciate music and dislike experiencing 'bad signal' feedback or interference at elevated volumes.

I am seeking to purchase a 2013 Audi A5 equipped with Bang & Olufsen audio system. I have observed several equipped with the 'concert' system and others featuring the 'multimedia' system. I acknowledge that the multimedia unit is superior due to enhanced functionalities, such as satellite navigation. I intend to acquire Android Auto to manage without a satellite navigation system. Is there a distinction in sound quality between the Concert system including B&O and the Multimedia system also equipped with B&O?

The paddles adjust the regenerative braking level on my EV6, but not on our 2022 Sportage PHEV. I want that they would, since I like a more assertive regeneration setup.

Mobile data must be enabled to continue receiving satellite navigation updates. Your house WiFi has a restricted range, and you will rapidly lose connectivity as you go. In addition to mobile data, it is necessary to activate the mobile hotspot and connect your phone to the vehicle. The likely reason is because PAYG is far more costly than a contract. I pay £6 per month to Sky for 2GB of data and unlimited calls and messages.

The expense of mobile data is minimal; I often use it for navigation and Spotify on 500-mile round journeys, incurring just a few cents. Downloading films or similar content incurs much higher mobile expenses.

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Thank you, everyone. I have completed approximately 7,000 miles with it, and despite its 1.5-liter Renault-derived engine, it has performed quite well. The one significant issue was the thermostat, which I replaced along with the timing belt, water pump, and auxiliary belt. The driver's seat base had split, so I procured a replacement from Germany and installed it, which was quite straightforward. Replaced the analogue climate control with a digital version featuring a reset button. I had the vehicle remapped with an eco map, as 109 horsepower was insufficient. It possesses slightly increased torque and may attain just over 76 miles per gallon on a journey, while the typical performance is in the upper 60s.

Inside, I observed a hoover cleaner and dust.

I dedicated the morning to meticulously detailing my w246 b180. With 126,000 kilometres, it still presents well. Simoniz snow foam and the two-bucket washing technique Subsequently, a machine polish was applied utilising Meguiar's Ultimate Polish, concluding with Meguiar's Gold Class paste wax. Meguiar's tyre and trim gel applied on door rubbers, tyres, and black trim.

Thank you for your response, torque2me. Initially, I considered that possibility. Both remotes had fresh batteries installed two months ago; however, one ceased functioning, prompting me to replace both batteries while I was re-soldering. I tested both remotes, and they operated correctly. As previously stated, it has remained undercover while the salt is present. However, it has been started and operated (still undercover and not driven) with both keys for approximately 30 minutes each time at speeds above idle to circulate the oil and water in the engine, both functioning adequately. Subsequently, a week later, both remotes ceased to operate simultaneously.

I will attempt that as well; thank you very much.

I hope you are mistaken; but, I shall explore other more expedient alternatives initially. Nonetheless, my intuition aligns with your recommendation. Thank you. This is not the first occurrence; previously, when my car battery in the trunk was malfunctioning, I had a new one installed, necessitating the reprogramming of both remotes. Everything functioned optimally for a period, and the new battery is currently on an excellent trickle charger. However, it is becoming increasingly frustrating, as I have inspected every fuse, among other components. Is there a method to verify the diversity antenna, as all other components in the vehicle appear to function well despite my repeated attempts? Thank you

Greetings everyone, my car is in pristine shape, a 2007 5.25d M Sport, likely in showroom condition visually. The vehicle is maintained on a reliable trickle charger during the winter months and is stored undercover, as it is not utilised in inclement weather, for around three months. The alternator and new battery have been inspected and reprogrammed by a BMW garage. However, both remotes have ceased to operate the central locking once more. This is not the first occurrence; they seem to lose their coding, despite the previous reprogramming being executed correctly. All functions operate correctly once inside the vehicle; entrance was gained using the manual key. The alarm is malfunctioning, although all internal buttons function properly, indicating that relays are operational, except for the central locking via the remotes. Any assistance or guidance would be much valued.

Your location will influence the cost.

Engine and gearbox mounts? My 2005 CLK (272) is entirely original at 92,000 miles and operates really smoothly. New electrical plate installed years before. When was the most recent oil and filter service performed?

While one may assume otherwise, Mazda acknowledges the problem, and the solution is to use a garage for parking. My dealer did not thoroughly examine the system. They said that other individuals are reporting the same issue, leading them to conclude that a solution has not yet been established. Numerous reviews and forum threads corroborate the absence of testing you referenced. If a consensus is reached among individuals, there is often some veracity to the assertion.