Psychil

In my first communication, I mentioned the year 2015. The automobile received maintenance at an authorised dealership until it reached a mileage of 170,000 km, and thereafter at independent workshops. The gearbox oil was replaced at 60,000 and 120,000 km. It was not replaced at a value of 180 thousand. As previously stated, the car's odometer presently displays a mileage of 194,000 km.

Therefore, do you believe that the noise may perhaps originate from the bearings in the gearbox as well?

Greetings, everyone! I am now experiencing an issue with my automobile. I own a 2015 Audi A5 with a 2.0 TDI engine, producing 190 horsepower. The engine model is CNHA and it is equipped with a Multitronic gearbox. For the last month, I have been experiencing an issue with an unusual sound that is audible exclusively while driving, particularly at speeds ranging from 40 to 60 km/h. The noise is most noticeable when I release the accelerator and the engine speed decreases. The noise is quite subdued and resembles the sound of a bearing, akin to a gentle sawing noise, as if there is friction occurring. Although I had the turbine regenerated, the DPF replaced, and the whole suspension examined, the sound persisted. The odometer reading of my vehicle is 194,000 km. I am curious whether the issue might perhaps be caused by a faulty bearing inside the gearbox. In general, the gearbox operates well without any abrupt or sluggish gear shifts. Has anybody encountered a similar issue?

You may purchase them straight from Mercedes. I choose to purchase the items from a third-party provider, ensuring that they meet the required criteria. Additionally, I choose to buy them in metres so that I have extra units to experiment with. There are component numbers on the pressure lines that I deleted. The pressure line on the left side is labelled as A212 327 11 45. The correct pressure line is identified as A212 327 12 45. Mercedes also offers a repair kit that includes a length of about 1 metre. I am now unable to recall the specific details, however the item in question is a Nylon tube with a brass connecting fitting, similar to the one used for repairing brake pipes. Nevertheless, I am not in favour of the notion of cutting and reconnecting them using a repair kit. This is because the whole length is produced simultaneously, and if one portion develops micro fractures due to ageing and wear & strain, I anticipate that other sections will quickly follow suit. The VOSS website has an assembly manual, and I have included some screenshots of their QC203 fitting for reference. Regarding the centre reservoir tank, my model lacks this feature. On the 212 platform, only the E500 and E63 models are equipped with complete Airmatic suspension, which includes a tank that distributes air to both the front and rear air springs. Additionally, the valve block is also different in these models. Replacing the lines in the front will be particularly difficult, as some sections of the pressure line pass through the interior of the vehicle, similar to the S class model.

The car model is E350CDI. Disclaimer: This article does NOT provide instructions. This text is just to convey my own experience. It is important to consistently consult with an automobile expert. Background information: The 2012 Mercedes S212 estate is equipped with air suspension on the rear axle, however it does not have adaptive damping control. The automobile is an E350 CDI, however it utilises the same components as other vehicles on the 212 platform. The automobile has accumulated a mileage of 223,000 miles, mostly inside the United Kingdom. The automobile comes with a complete service history from Mercedes and has been serviced only by Mercedes specialists. Symptoms: Approximately three months ago, during really cold weather, the back of the object descends simultaneously overnight. Subsequently, the frequency of occurrence increases, resulting in a decrease of around 5 millimetres per hour. The compressor continues to activate in order to elevate the automobile, ensuring smooth operation throughout any trip. The narrative: I conducted extensive internet research, using platforms such as YouTube, Facebook, forums, and also sought advice from authorised Mercedes dealers and experts. The conclusion is that it might include any possibility or every possibility. I have returned to the initial starting point. Evidently, there exists a leak (or several leaks) inside the system. The most challenging aspect is locating it. Regrettably, the soapy water I created did not reveal any signs of leakage in the vicinity of the compressor, pressure lines, fittings, and the bags. The inference is that there is likely a minuscule leakage or microscopic fracture present. Given the big dealer's hourly fee of £110+VAT and the local independent's charge being not much different, I made the decision to handle the situation myself. The investigation: This is perhaps the most labor-intensive aspect of the whole procedure, since it involves identifying the source of the malfunction. The earlier soapy water test did not provide any results, perhaps due to the difficulty in seeing the air spring and lines when they were installed on the vehicle. This is because a significant portion of the pressure line leading to the right air spring is concealed beneath exhaust heat shields. In order to thoroughly investigate the matter and avoid repetition, I made the decision to detach both the air spring and the pressure lines from the chassis. According to the proper procedure, it is recommended to use the Mercedes diagnostic system to relieve the pressure from the system before doing any tasks on the pressurised system. However, I personally opt for a more practical approach by gradually loosening the fittings at the valve block. Prior to releasing the pressure, I loosened the larger pressure line at the pump's terminal and submerged that end in soapy water. After waiting for five minutes, there was no indication of air escaping from the valve under the pressure exerted by the bags. I believe that valve units are an improbable source of the leak. Once the pressure was relieved, I proceeded to remove the pressure lines from their cable ties. Subsequently, I made the decision to replace the original zip clips with universal brake pipe holding clips, as well as using certain zip tie techniques that I have acquired from my years of experience. The purpose of this is to prevent the pressure lines from experiencing friction and to ensure their stability. Removing the air spring is a straightforward task provided you are familiar with the necessary steps. When the pressure in the air spring is depleted, the rear suspension retracts to a position that may require significant effort to remove the bags. Since I didn't have any assistance, I reattached a single wheel nut to the hub. Then, I used a 17mm deep socket and a metal tube (which coincidentally happened to fit from my jack) to increase the leverage. I effortlessly removed the sacks by sitting on it. By immersing the bags and lines in a container of water, I quickly identified the sources of leakage. Both bags and the line are experiencing leaks. The pressure line on the right side exhibits a microfracture. Both airbags are experiencing leakage at the crimp rings. The leaks mostly occur at the lower crimps and precisely where the rust is located. Reinstalling with new air springs and new lines is a straightforward process that only requires following the opposite sequence of the previous steps. A useful technique involves applying initial pressure to the system in order to inflate the air spring. This allows the spring to be securely fastened at the top using retaining plugs. Furthermore, I conducted another test on the system using soapy water to detect any potential leaks at the fittings. While the automobile was elevated, I seized the chance to replenish lanolin-based fluid film in certain regions that are often hard to reach. The whole task took a total of 8 hours, during which I proceeded at a leisurely pace, indulging in copious amounts of coffee and cookies, while also being intermittently distracted by my neighbor's feline companion. The precise duration required for replacing air springs and pressure lines is likely to be three hours. After 10 hours of leaving the automobile undisturbed, parked on level ground and secured, a decrease of 2mm was noted. As stated on the w220.wiki site, the permissible rate of descent is 2mm per hour. The issue has been resolved. Required tools: An optimal choice for a car jack would be a reliable and stable low-profile model, since it is necessary to elevate the vehicle using a wooden block placed under the differential. Relying only on a single jack in the centre is not secure; it is advisable to employ jack stands instead. For optimal safety, it is advisable to use reliable and stable vehicle jack stands. Additionally, it is recommended to place the wheels under the car as a precautionary measure in the event of a failure of either the jack or the supports. A 17mm deep socket is required to detach your wheels. Having an impact gun might be convenient, but it is not necessary. A 10mm spanner, either a tiny spanner or a socket with a side hole for difficult access, is required. Additionally, a Stanley blade should be used to cut the nylon pressure lines. A heavy hammer is necessary to dislodge the old air springs. Required components: The answer to this question is contingent upon the specific study and unique circumstances involved. It is possible that the range of possibilities is rather broad and encompasses a wide array of potential factors. For my situation, I need a pair of air springs along with pressure lines and fittings. I chose Aerosus for my air springs since they have discounted air springs available for my specific make and model. The outside diameter (OD) of the pressure lines is 4mm, while the inner diameter (ID) is 2.5mm. You need Nylon pressure tubes, also known as Polyamide, that are compliant with either PA 11-PHL or PA 12-PHL for the connection. Additionally, they should meet the specifications of DIN 73378 or DIN 74324, as well as ISO 7628. These criteria are in place to guarantee that the tubing is suitable for the demands of a pressurised air system, automotive settings, and meets the necessary thermoplastic specifications. The left side measures one metre in length, while the right side measures two metres. Despite this variation, the price remains relatively same. Consequently, I purchased four metres for each side, resulting in a total of eight metres, to account for any potential mistakes. I choose to use the colour blue to represent the left side and the colour red to represent the right side. You have the option to use the conventional white ones, however I really like the coloured ones. I continued using the colour scheme of blue for left and red for right, as I had done with my previous BMW F11. I suggest using the authentic VOSS Quick Connect System 203 for the fittings. The thread size is M8x1. Mercedes does not manufacture these items; they purchase them from VOSS. This also applies to their fuel return line nozzle. I believe that the return nozzle on the diesel injector is the VOSS Quick Connect System 249LB, however I may be mistaken. The VOSS fitting is equipped with three o-rings, two located inside and one positioned externally. Additionally, there is a grip ring with an aperture. The VOSS fittings are not intended for reuse with new tubes. If a new pressure line is required, it is necessary to employ new fittings in conjunction with a new tube. The recommended torque for fastening an M8 size fitting is 5+1Nm. The recommended insertion length for the connection is 17±1mm. You may indicate the location using a permanent marker, as advised by VOSS, or alternatively, you can use tape. Ultimately, I trust that my article may be beneficial to someone.

No one can perceive the sound, since it is not a continuous high-pitched noise like that of a bearing. Rather, it resembles the unpleasant melody produced by someone playing a song on a bottle cap. The volume of the sound varies depending on the condition of the road.

The noise I am experiencing is not caused by the tyres. I have already tried two other kinds of tyres, and the issue was not there with the prior set. Currently, I have fresh new Continental Eco 6 tyres, but the problem remains unchanged. The sound resembles the act of someone exhaling forcefully over the aperture of an unsealed container, if that is comprehensible.

Thank you for the responses, but it is certainly not caused by my wife, since the issue occurs even when she is not around. Furthermore, I have just had the differential mounts changed, and I have not had any problems with the differential.

Greetings, I am seeking assistance from anybody here. For the last several months, I have been experiencing a persistent low-frequency noise inside the car while driving at speeds above 30mph. The intensity of the noise varies depending on the condition of the road, with little noise noticeable on smooth surfaces. I have recently replaced the front bearings, ball joint, and front springs due to damage. Despite these repairs, the noise I am experiencing continues to persist. I have extensively inspected the suspension system, but I am currently unable to determine the source of the problem. Has anybody had similar problems? It is causing me significant frustration.

Greetings, gentlemen. I will place an order for the oil. However, I have one more issue. I am aware that the oil would flow more efficiently after it has reached a higher temperature, but the vehicle is already elevated. Is it advisable to let the vehicle to idle for around 15 minutes before shifting it into drive in order to circulate the fluid?

I am interested in purchasing either 75w90 gl5 Fuchs oil from Opie Oils or 75w85 oil. Which one would you choose? The model is an E350 from the year 2010.

You may get acceleration data online to compare the performance of your vehicle. Edmunds reports that the 2.5 Skyactive model has a 0-60 acceleration time of 9.0 seconds, whilst the 2.5T model achieves this in 6.4 seconds. According to Car & Driver, the 2.5T has a 0-60 time of 5.8 seconds. However, it should be noted that they achieved this number by using braking torque.

Expressing gratitude! My CX-60 Diesel Takumi with Bose (2023) does not have a driver woofer. How is it feasible? There is insufficient room available for it. Perhaps someone have an authentic photograph?

One is located in the trunk, another is positioned on the left side of the passenger's knees, and the last one is located where?

Greetings! The CX-60 is equipped with a Bose system that has around 12 speakers. I am unable to locate one in close proximity to the driver's legs. Is there a possibility that someone has a photograph? One intriguing aspect is the placement of the woofer near the front passenger's legs. It is concealed by a completely enclosed plastic covering. Perhaps due to the presence of a woofer speaker.

At the age of 22, I acquired the AWD Performance model which came equipped with Carbon Ceramic Brakes (CCBs), more horsepower, carbon fibre elements both inside and outside the vehicle, and several other features that I may not be familiar with. The Perf was very valuable, especially when compared to only one or two carbon pieces on a Ferrari. Additionally, there is the Performance button located on the steering wheel. Yes, it is possible to reconfigure the Engine Control Unit (ECU) to get more horsepower than the Performance model. However, it is important to note that the horsepower differential is likely the least significant factor among the several changes.

Indeed, one does. The issue is that one's crew is active.

During my childhood, I recall seeing my grandpa engaging in auto maintenance at home while he was serving in the REME. His first action was to take off his watch and wedding band.

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It is hypothesised that the differential mechanism is malfunctioning, leading to the decision to remove the drive shafts in order to mitigate the excessive noise produced. It is unexpected that the absence of gearbox oil leakage from the differential and drive shafts, resulting in conspicuous openings in the hubs, would be deemed acceptable. I will inspect the vehicle's drive shaft for the transfer system tomorrow to see whether it is missing. However, I plan to return the vehicle on Sunday and I expect to get a refund. whether the missing drive shaft is indicative of other concealed issues, it raises concerns about the overall condition of the vehicle. Unless the seller is completely unaware of this issue, I will provide updates on the situation. The automobile in question is indeed aesthetically pleasing; nevertheless, it is regrettable that its current condition necessitates significant financial investment for repairs. Furthermore, there is a possibility that the gearbox may also need attention.

I perceived a sluggish pace, but attributed it to the larger size of the vehicle.🥲

I was contemplating the possibility that there may be an additional element that has been overlooked. It is possible that the transfer box may be absent if a differential was installed on the rear or a similar modification was made. However, what perplexes me is the absence of any fault indications on the dashboard, such as the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) light not being off. Furthermore, when connecting a scanner, no abnormalities were detected. What are the methods for removing the shafts without triggering an error? The individual in question has returned to the mechanic and subsequently contacted me to relay that the car has been deemed to be in satisfactory condition. However, I am perplexed by this assertion, as it raises doubts about the veracity of the car's overall condition. It is worth noting that the vehicle had its mandatory MOT inspection in the beginning of October, and one would expect any potential issues to have been identified and addressed during this process. Either the transfer or the differential has malfunctioned, necessitating a costly repair. However, the duration of the issue is unknown, which raises concerns about potential internal damage. I am inclined to request the return of my previous vehicle and the reimbursement of funds, a proposition that I anticipate the other party may be disinclined to fulfil. This is mostly due to the fact that embarking on a three-hour round journey would need additional expenses for me, including insurance modification and gasoline consumption, therefore inducing stress.

Upon realising a decrease in speed, I promptly examined the hub and confirmed the absence of drive shafts on both sides. Consequently, I infer that the differential is malfunctioning and the shafts were deliberately removed to enable the vehicle to operate. I have recently contacted the garage and they have advised me to return the vehicle, which is inconvenient as it is located an hour away. I am optimistic that my 1 series is still available, since I need a car for work. This situation is somewhat burdensome. I appreciate your assistance.

Greetings, individuals. I anticipated that I would eventually share a piece about my transition from owning a 1 series vehicle for an extended period of time to ultimately upgrading to a 2011 X1 xDrive 1.8 diesel model. I am unfamiliar with the X1, but I believe it utilises the same engine as my previous 1 series vehicle. In any case, I am now inspecting the oil and other components, since I just acquired the X1 only a week ago. During the inspection of the oil, a discernible moist area around a specific aperture was seen (refer to the attached document). Subsequently, two apertures were identified on the right and left sides of the engine, both exhibiting minor dampness. A cloth was inserted into one of the apertures, revealing a distinct odour reminiscent of gearbox oil. I am uncertain as to whether this item should have a capitalization requirement or if there is any missing information. I kindly want your assistance in verifying this matter. I have come across many photographs on eBay that I would like to share with you. I would want to express my gratitude in advance.