Shimano DOHC 2.0

[ENVIOclev]

The engine on my 2000 Tracker is a 2.0-liter Suzuki. After we rebuilt the engine, it started up and ran smoothly, but the rpm gauge began to steadily decrease. We turned the engine off after 20 minutes of good running after replacing the crankshaft position sensor; we would finish the task the following morning. The following morning, while it was still chilly, it sputtered at 100 rpm before dying. Now it won't turn over at all, and the only time the fuel injector pulses are noticeable are very infrequent and insufficient for the engine to start. We checked the grounds and hot wires, replaced the PCM, and sensors for the crankshaft and camshaft. Neither the engine nor the vehicle have any codes. We are at a loss as to what to do next. I need someone to lend me a hand.

[KOOLCAR]

It seems like you're saying that the ECU isn't pulsing the injectors properly. Is this something you've confirmed with a noise test? I take it that you mean the engine is turning over, but won't start. Instead of hurling parts at the vehicle, attempt diagnosing it. First things first: check the wiring if you're saying the injector noise test doesn't work.

[KOOLCAR]

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[ENVIOclev]

I checked the injectors and ignition coils just like you said. Occasionally, they will flash. Additionally, I connected an oscilloscope to the sensor for the crankshaft and camshaft. Both the AC signal and the DC signal from the crankshaft appeared to be in good shape. Following the engine rebuild, he changed out both sensors. We suspected the pcm was at blame because there was a signal going into it but no signal coming out; the voltage input was 12.5v. That means a pcm, a new camshaft and crankshaft sensor, and no fuel injector or ignition pulse.

[coolguy]

Was this the way it appeared?

[coolguy]

[ENVIOclev]

The signal from the camshaft sensor didn't. Crankshaft signal exhibits a substantially distinct pattern

[coolguy]

I hope it took the following form:

[coolguy]

[KOOLCAR]

I apologise if my information is outdated, but it seems like you have already replaced nearly everything that could electrically fix a "crank but no start" problem. Have you ever, for fun, attempted to start the engine by spraying it with starter fluid and seeing if it would run while you kept spraying it into the intake? Is the timing of this engine correct? Have you checked it with a compression test?

[ENVIOclev]

And I can confirm that I have completed both tasks. We just rebuilt the motor, and it still won't start even though the compression is fine.

[coolguy]

Is there spark, assuming the fuel issue isn't the problem?
The ignition circuit consists of relatively few components.