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Michelin Cross Climates, which are still premium tires but more affordable than Scorpions, were the ones I used instead of Pirellis.

Absolutely! However, they aren't Pirelli.

I've also made sure that my Evoque (and other vehicles) only have premium tires. You can't get off the road without them!

The forum community should exercise caution when receiving seemingly suspicious responses, such as this one.

Being a premium car, I have always ensured that it has premium tires. Specifying Pirellis as OEM is common for a reason. The problem with cheaper brands can be that they cut corners on things like wear rates and other details. My Pirellis were good for 60,000 miles.

Pirelli Scorpion Zero XL FSL M+S - 255/50R20 109Y - Summer Tire : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

Amazon.co.uk : DSHPZK Fuel Filter LR001313 Fits for Land Rover Freelander 2 Range Rover Evoque 2.2 TD4 Diesel

Greetings everybody. I notice that most UK forum members recommend Pirelli Scorpions, but I was hoping to hear about anyone's bad experiences with the much cheaper Kumho Crugen HP71s for touring and around-town use in Australia (where you won't have to worry about snow, slush, ice, or off-roading). Yesterday, while repairing a 2014 Evoque TD4 that was fitted with Goodyear 255/50r20 tires in July 2017, we managed to tear a significant chunk out of one of the tire's sidewalls. A complete set of replacements seems reasonable considering their age and some general rubber cracking. The Kumhos are recommended for "reduced road noise and comfortable highway cruising" according to reviews, which is something we're interested in. The price for a set of these tires is AUD$960, which is less than the $1520 we were quoted for the Pirellis. What do you think?

Something new. Under the vacuum pump, on the front left side (when looking from the front), is where you can find the shutter valve/anti-shudder valve. It looks like a throttle valve, but CDIs don't actually have any. Its sole purpose is to create a vacuum when the engine is turned off (thus eliminating the thump heard on older diesels) and, on occasion, to partially close (again, to aid EGR flow), so that the engine does not overheat. The derv engine's speed is mostly unrestricted because the only controls are the duration and pressure of the injectors, not a throttle. A spray hole would be created by the easily detachable air intake temperature sensor located on the rear of the device.

I am grateful. However, the om651 inlet manifold's swirl flaps serve as the shutter valve. By "valve," did you mean this particular one?

Yes, you could remove it at the shutter valve (also known as an anti-shudder valve or throttle valve) and spray it in there from the top of the engine compartment. Another option is to use the hole behind the shutter valve, just below it, or the one through which the air intake temperature sensor sits. It's still quite a distance to the intake, but that's the closest easy point.

Thank you for getting back to us. Had to be replaced because we didn't know what was wrong with the swirl flaps before they were removed, and it took too long to order and receive them. Time to clean the old Manifold at an hourly rate wasn't a big deal, and the Manifold was reasonably priced. I will locate the catch-all space and option. I think you can spray the intake cleaner into the intercooler pipe from underneath. I am grateful.

For my curiosity's sake, why were they replacing instead of simply cleaning? It is extremely difficult, if not impossible, to spray into the intake while avoiding the turbo or intercooler. In any case, you'll need to spray the carbon buildup directly with most of those sprays for them to work. The most effective solution would be to install an oil catch can between the PCV and the turbo intake. This will prevent the oil from leaking into the intakes and will ensure that the PCV runs smoothly.

I would greatly appreciate your assistance. The carbon buildup on the swirl flaps necessitated the expensive replacement of my inlet manifold. According to what I've heard, in order to prevent carbon buildup and short trips, I should spray a diesel intake cleaner like TB6601P at every service. Unfortunately, the boost sensor located just before the inlet manifold—the ideal spot to spray the cleaner—is completely out of reach. Another possible spot is the second boost sensor on the throttle body, immediately following the MAP sensor; however, this would require the cleaner to pass through the intercooler, which does not seem to be an efficient method. Is anyone here with any suggestions for what to do next? Much obliged

one self-check that you can perform: raise the floor mat on the passenger side, remove the small black plastic ring, turn it clockwise, and insert a cotton swab into the opening. When it's wet, it means the yellow grommet has released its grip.

According to you the rear seal on light isn't going to get you a soaked boot.

Did you remove the carpet from the passenger side? Even though it seems dry on the outside, the thick layer of foam underneath makes it smell bad because it soaks up water. The "big yellow grommet" is a notoriously weak spot in the F10. Find it. Deserving of repair if the vehicle is in good shape

Good day. The odour in the trunk was the worst, but the car had been stinking for the past week. Got a little wet when I lifted the carpet flap near the boot edge; there was about an inch of murky brown water under the bag. This place had an awful odour. No water was found in the battery or control unit after cleaning, and no water was felt on the carpet linings or anywhere else in the boot or inside the car. Took it to the mechanic for further inspection. In the cabin of the vehicle, the odour persists. Vehicle is not expected to be returned to the mechanic until October 20th. Because I am disabled, I prefer to have the garage do the inspections. Should I keep it? The range of a standard garage is something I don't know.

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the mileage has increased by about 20,000km after having the instrument cluster replaced by an official Mercedes dealer. The reason behind this is that Mercedes uses the actual kilometres rather than the initial kilometres since their system stores them. I don't understand. Has anyone else had this happen to them? This means the mileage might have been altered at some point... and the vehicle wasn't an authentic Mercedes-Euro import; it was imported from Japan.

Unfortunately, the mileage has increased by about 20,000km after I had the instrument cluster replaced by an official Mercedes dealer. The reason behind this is that Mercedes uses the actual kilometres rather than the initial kilometres since their system stores them. I don't understand. Has anyone else had this happen to them?

The replies are appreciated. I have exhausted all of the do-it-yourself suggestions made by both of you and AI, but the problem persists. Two Indianapolis garages were unable to resolve the issue; one even proposed swapping out the instrument cluster—excuse the pun—because it incorporates the brain. Finally took it to a Mercedes dealer, but they couldn't fix the cluster or clear the messages either. They suggested getting a new one. The vehicle is based in Cyprus, so my choices are limited. As they prepare to order the part from Germany, the cost is estimated to be £1500 plus. It is highly unlikely that they will be able to re-program an old device. Does this make sense?

Are you able to code scan? Just like before, the car started but the battery voltage is low, meaning its reserves were likely depleted. Connect it to a power source and erase all of the codes.

Since I'm not an expert, I figured I'd search up "check your battery health." If everything seems fine, then disconnect and reconnect, and drive around for about three minutes. AI recommended the above, but you should also try the other things, the ones you can handle on your own. If you still need help, you can always wait for an expert to respond to your question. Just a personal recommendation: after setting it up and driving it, check the battery health. Just make sure the lights are still on, okay? Regarding AI - tread carefully Due to the loss of calibration data and communication memory by the vehicle's computer modules, numerous dashboard warning lights will remain illuminated in a Mercedes-Benz B-Class when the battery is fully disconnected or drained. Because the modules have already recorded "low voltage" fault codes that need to be cleared or reset, removing the battery again will not resolve the issue. numbers 1 through 3 Here are the steps to turn off the lights: 1. Adjust the steering wheel by resetting the angle sensors. A common cause of the power steering, anti-lock brakes, and electronic stability program lights remaining on is when the steering angle sensor forgets where you were. Recalibration is a simple DIY project: [1, 2]. Get the engine going and keep it there in Park or Neutral. Press the lock while fully angling the steering wheel to the left. Once you reach the lock, turn the wheel to the right until it stops. Turn off the engine, center the wheel, wait 30 seconds, and then start the car again. It is expected that the traction and steering lights will go out. [1] 2. Go for a Quick Drive in the Car In order to readjust parameters such as tyre pressure and wheel speed sensors, modern Mercedes vehicles necessitate a short driving cycle. Maintain a safe driving pace for ten to fifteen minutes. The computer will automatically turn off many of the remaining yellow warning lights once it detects consistent data from all wheels and the engine reaches operating temperature. numbers 1 through 3 Step 3: Remove Stored Error Codes The Check Engine and SRS (airbag) lights will not be able to self-clear if they are left on. After two months of sitting, the voltage drops so low that the car's memory stores "undervoltage" errors. numbers 1–4 An OBD-II diagnostic scanner, which you or a mechanic will have to plug into the port beneath the dashboard, is required. Get some piece of mind by running a comprehensive health scan, recording the codes, and then selecting Clear/Erase Fault Memory. 1 and 2 4. Get the Battery Checked After two months of total discharge, a car battery can develop sulfation, a condition in which it can maintain a surface charge but die under load. This damage is permanent and affects the battery's internal components. Even if your alternator is in good working order, the dashboard lights will keep coming on if your battery isn't able to keep a constant charge. A free battery and alternator load test is available at most local auto parts stores and garages. numbers 1 through 3 Also, keep in mind that a tiny Auxiliary Battery (usually found in the footwell or dashboard area) is standard on many B-Class models. If the primary battery died, the backup battery is probably dead too, and you'll keep seeing the "Battery Visit Workshop" message until you replace it. Are the lights red or yellow? That should help narrow it down [1, 2]. You can help me identify the system that is malfunctioning by telling me which warning lights are still lit, such as ABS, Engine, or Battery. [1]

After being parked for about two months... B class 2016 petrol b180 All of the warning lights turned on when the car started. Vehicle is operational, but warning lights remain illuminated. The problem persisted even after I tried to reset it by removing the battery and leaving it alone for an hour. Swimming suit. All the warning lights are on, but the rev counter isn't functioning... Not working: reverse cam, but stops and starts are fine.