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I will snap a picture of my wiring after Mrs. returns from taking the car. A hardwire kit was purchased for my gku dashcam. My battery's positive terminal is yellow, and the red wire is an accessory.

The fuse layout design is attached; however, could you please specify the locations on the diagram you are utilising for acc and b+? I will disable parking mode after hearing your story and because I experienced a similar issue with another camera. The dealer replaced the battery once I convinced them to do so, but I had always assumed that parking mode was to blame.

One of the spare fuses is an accessory that turns on just when the engine is turned on, and I utilised the other spare, which is a permanent 12-volt, to power everything. I haven't had any issues with the battery warning since I changed mine from 24-hour recording to recording only when the car is hit.

One of the spare fuses is an accessory that turns on just when the engine is turned on, and I utilised the other spare, which is a permanent 12-volt, to power everything.

Hi, I'm sure someone has already answered this, but I can't seem to locate a thread that specifies which fuses my DashCam needs. My dash cam won't turn off, and parking mode is disabled, so I began by adjusting the battery and multimedia settings for acc. People have used different fuse placements. For your information, I have included a copy of the fuse box layout.

The problem is:If a bush is "excessively worn" (Category 5.3.4.a.i) or if there are substantial fluid leakage that could cause harm to people or the environment, it is classified as a major defect. I don't think it is; I think it will be an advisory. I've been informed that there is no bleeding, play, or excessive fluid leakage. Over time, I will discover the answer...

In my opinion, it's a bust.... From the suspension section of the guidebook. A major defect (failure) exists when the bush actively drips oil or fluid, becomes extensively covered, or has compromised damping or structural performance. Potential Hazard: These bushes are engineered to dampen vibrations and are frequently loaded with hydraulic oil. The stability, control, and handling of the vehicle might be compromised if they malfunction. An advise may be issued instead of an immediate fail in the event that the bush is just slightly wet or has small residue (a "mist" or light weep) but is not excessively covered in oil, as long as the component is still functional.

So far, nothing has been done for me. Wayne Gates just completed the service and inspection on the vehicle, and they noticed the problem. Two months from now is when the MoT test is due, so I will put it in and see if it passes then. Assuming the bush rubber is in good shape and does not have any play, it should pass the MoT Tester's Manual. In that case, I suppose it's time to give it a little TLC...

I would follow your lead.

Car number 164 is an ML63 AMG. Even though there is no play in either of them, the hydro-bushes in the back of the vehicle are leaking from the front and rear of the vehicle. These suspension arms are same across the board on the W164s; however, the AMG models are the only ones with hydro-bushes, while the rest of the models utilise solid rubber or metal components, meaning that an arm from a different version will fit on the 63. The arm is fastened to the bush and mounting casting using a single big bolt that passes through the center. If your vehicle isn't an AMG, you can easily find aftermarket replacement bushes from a number of manufacturers. One option is an exceptionally affordable Chinese set that includes all the bushes for both arms, but I'm not interested in that. Autodoc sells two for £150, however I haven't compared the reviews of Ridex, Esen, Metzger, Sidem, RTS, ALTE, or Spidan to determine which brand is better. Also, I haven't looked into how much a pair from Mercedes would cost. Unfortunately, MB does not sell only the bushes, and no aftermarket vendor offers them, perhaps because to the low production numbers of AMGs. Therefore, a set of new arms is the sole option for replacement; £1300 to you, squire (I'm not sure whether that amount includes VAT...). :oops: :oops: Just a couple of the regular, non-AMG bushes would have sufficed; I don't see how hydro- or solid-rubber would have made much of a difference in such a tiny bush. Who here thinks this is a poor plan?

The person who posted the question clearly does not appear to have much expertise car-spanking, but I love it when they complete a major task like this. So, nicely done!

Quite a bargain! There is no way to "over research" anything like this, in my opinion. 🤎 Perhaps I stand out to many, but before beginning any activity, no matter how simple, I conduct extensive research. Those who aren't aware of the gaskets will also benefit from knowing about them. Having a significant savings is the cherry on top, once again.

I may have done a little too much research on this one, but it was well worth it! No one ever says this, but you have to change the gaskets every time you remove the throttle valve and the pipes that go with it. It is important to keep this in mind before beginning. Warning: I spent approximately 8.5 hours on the project (not counting the time spent on the water pump). Even while it's not great for a first-timer, it's better than paying the €2.2k that Mercedes asked for the identical job! 😅

Even though you were already investigating, the name SPR Autos popped into my head as I read your message. You did an excellent job! A significant reduction in expenses makes it even better.

Great work and congratulations!

I Achieved It, Yeah! This is the Worst Job Ever! At last got around to doing it, and holy cow, was I a swine! There are two points that are consistently overlooked: The housing for the fuel filter: the new authentic Mercedes component differs from the initial. For a long, I didn't know what to do with a few more mounting points here and a few missing ones there. Despite my best efforts, I was informed by the local dealer that it is now a "one-part-fits-all" setup. 🤦‍♂️

Money vs. time I'm reasonably handy and have everything I need, but I'm struggling to decide: Approximately how long will it take from beginning to end? Compared to simply paying a nearby garage (around €72/hr here)” I'm interested in hearing about actual completion times, tips, any problems encountered by anyone who has installed the oil cooler housing and/or water pump on the OM651. Thank you ahead of time!

«The Greatest Mystery» Since draining the oil and coolant from an oil cooler is a two-part process, I see no reason not to do the water pump and cooler simultaneously. My current line of inquiry is centred around — Is it feasible to accomplish this task on my own at home? In your experience, how long did it take? There are a lot of moving parts, but it seems like it's mostly just a matter of unbolting and rebolting.

Wanted Components Refurbished oil cooler set (with housing and gaskets) Renovated water pump Delivered for a total of €475—all authentic Mercedes parts from Germany. The irony is that the identical components were estimated to cost €880 in France! 🇩🇪💶

Now I'll give you an update (and ask anyone who has dealt with this before). With 15,000 kilometres on the clock since purchase, I should probably get another oil change soon anyhow. The coolant leak, which has been going on for the past month, is emanating from the area around the water pump. It appears to be very easy to order a new pump, so I have already done that. On the other hand, I've discovered a huge oil leak. The engine's undercarriage is a disaster, yet I'm not losing much oil. It appears that the oil cooler/filter housing is leaking, according to some camera-based investigation. My research suggests that this is a classic OM651 issue.

I feel the same way. The washer fluid is propelled over the top of the automobile by the air that enters through the hood, which then strikes the windscreen. Since this may pose a threat to users' safety, I believe it requires redesign and subsequent updates.

Though I would have preferred a more uniformly saturating mist (for the front and back, particularly that stream for the back glass), it's actually quite passable. In addition to double-checking spirod's suggestion, I would just extend the duration of the wiper spray anytime you are travelling at a greater pace. On a purely anecdotal basis, I think it makes a noticeable difference to lightly tap the brakes while travelling at highway speeds and to spray washer fluid to ensure better saturation. (At least for many of these newer vehicles that want to conceal the wipers beneath the hood to the extent that you have to switch them to service mode to bring them up) The washer fluid spray installed on the wiper bars themselves is a brilliant design. The washer fluid spray on the new Palisade is permanently mounted below the windscreen, so it barely reaches the top portion of the window either parked or driving.