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I bet that software was from a long time ago! So long as you don't have to pay for cable, I'm happy for you.

I appreciate everyone's responses. The "Auto Standby" wasn't shown when I searched for it. After I updated the app since I saw it needed it, this option showed up! Everything looks to be going smoothly now that I've configured it. Much obliged.

The Auto-standby setting is excellent.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CZDFGJY5?crid=1SSN949KZIA4T&keywords=split+power+usb+cable&sprefix=split+powerusb+cable,aps,238&dib_tag=se&_encoding=UTF8&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.gD47tjP8iIP5KrNKOMkYv6PaI_oRvUdXMKpCx5a8BaMH__83JWThi84rT4v_pw7xs2APLolP4SFtZiejuDvodD1vAUUXFpaipJ27774ZLo-Fbaxj_oXFEhWuG_YfLKb5i6fb2Kciysf8w2qMNBczwjKGCjyuY7uUywZRCTTYi4r-L5zPGTIIv6CfWjJmgqc9I-9vOIL_E1PYxGZAjVQ2VqmUYaoYH0e0o9_SmuLqPzU.Gb-jWIe9lyprsvr4IwBZaFFnEMdRE-1DBua-CnvjJFY&sr=8-4&ar_srct=T1&linkCode=gg2&tag=kiaownersclub-sl-20

This is what my EV6 and AAWireless work best with.

You can set the AAWireless app to only attempt a connection when your phone and automobile are already in a Bluetooth connection. No issues at all with my Niro EV.

In spite of my leaving and locking the car, my AAWireless dongle tries to connect with my phone every five seconds. I can tell it's because the car's USB port stays active even after lockup. According to US-based forums, one possible workaround is to use a data-only cable that draws power from the car's USB A port rather than the USB C port (which turns off during lockup). I was wondering if anyone had any luck finding a compatible cable in the UK after trying this?

Hello there! 😊

warning light for trye pressure.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=BMW&linkCode

The pressures are correct, and I have repeatedly attempted to reset the tyre pressure warning light. watched a plethora of do-it-yourself videos, yet the problem persists. Is it necessary to replace a certain part? Because the Gen 1 wheels that come standard with BMWs are so soft, I'm riding on TSW rims instead. Even after all these years, putting them on is still painless! Could someone kindly lend a hand with this matter?

I figured it would be best to get my real turbo repaired and maintain the original Hella actuator because it doesn't seem to be complaining or throwing up any problem codes, given all the actuator versions.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/shop/om-642-turbo?_nkw=om+642+turbo&rt=nc&LH_ItemCondition=3000&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181125&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512X070eeb4b4c1bfa0ffb4f87cabac2ca91&subId2=15

Used turbos can be found on eBay.

I will try to recall where we obtained the unit. After having a new turbo installed, you can send back the old one to help pay for the refurbishment.

Essex Turbos has been my go-to on more than one occasion. Excellent assistance with gratifying outcomes. Two were provided: one was a rebuilt unit and the other was a refurbished one.

Hi there, This turbo visibly ate the rubber gasket, but there's no play in the shaft, no demon noises, and it pulls incredibly nicely, so I'm guessing a replacement is in the works. I don't know what to do. Is it worth it to have it rebuilt? If so, who should I hire? Should I just buy new? My best guess is that I should stay far away from knockoffs made in China. Would much appreciate any feedback you can provide.

😁

Because it has been staring me down from the main window the whole time, I'm going to assume it's the accumulated figure. But I have a hard time figuring out where things are on the Niro control panel because it is so complicated.

Do you mean the total amount or the amount per trip? The second one updates automatically based on the number of miles driven since reset, but the third one takes a long time.

I will give the reset a shot. This level of precision shouldn't be a concern, though; I have knowledge of the overflowing test from my time as editor of a motorhome magazine. It casts suspicion on the instrumentation, which ought to deliver sufficient precision, else it serves no use. In a few weeks, I will provide an update.

Get the mpg by doing the tank-to-tank test. Fill up the tank, hit the road, and then fill it up again after a decent amount of miles driven to get a more accurate picture of your actual mpg. The fuel economy of my previous hybrid vehicle, the 2020, ranged from the mid 20s to a peak of 175 mpg. The average fuel economy for the 16,400 miles covered by Ave is 54mPG.

Dash board data are only meant to be used as a guide; in order to acquire exact figures, one must calculate mpg fill up to fill up.

After resetting the MPG statistics and giving it some time to settle, they should be back up to 50. I had a similar problem with my previous Tucson; it had been showing 42.9 for a long time.

Since I had been making mostly short trips and I knew that all automobiles are less efficient in cold weather, I wasn't too worried when my average mpg dropped to 44.6 during the winter months. Still, I'm concerned that I'm only getting 44.8mpg, as my gas mileage has never been lower than 52mpg since I purchased the car in October 2022. I am really hoping that my 130-mile round trip in a few weeks will increase the average. Is this out of the ordinary? I don't think there are any gasoline leaks.