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Fascinating defect I presume you have observed this discussion? The audio circuit is responsible for an unwanted battery drain; what are the solutions? Indeed, Mk4 compared to Mk5, yet there might still be some utility. It appears that this issue is relatively prevalent. I'm unclear about your reference to "All fuses out," but please review that discussion. The auditory apparatus... I have encountered analogous erroneous diagnostic codes stemming from electrical system malfunctions on one of my Mk4.5 vehicles; for instance, I received persistent "Water in Fuel" alerts and General Electrical Faults, which ultimately were traced back to a faulty (intermittent) ground connection at the Trailer Light Control module. Thus far, at least... To be honest, I find myself somewhat perplexed regarding your current situation, but it may be prudent to temporarily overlook the information provided by Forscan and several battery chargers. I would begin anew with the fundamentals to ensure clarity. Verify the parasitic current consumption. Adjust your DMM to the 2Amp setting and utilise high-quality crocodile clips to establish a secure connection between the Chassis and a point along the Battery Ground cable. Deactivate the vehicle, allow it to enter sleep mode, then detach the Battery Ground connection from the chassis, ensuring the DMM clips remain attached to prevent the car from detecting a battery disconnection and maintaining its sleep state. Subsequently, observe the actual current draw you are receiving.

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Is the vehicle still consuming a 1 amp draw while in a deep sleep state? I continue to receive the “C1D00 EPB switch + additional fault short to ground body control module” during the Forscan BCM test, which leads me to suspect the BCM. I have now deactivated the stop/start feature in Forscan, so it is no longer an annoyance to me! Salutations

I concur with the preceding two contributors: It is improbable to locate any diagram. Nevertheless, do not be discouraged. I accessed my Trailer Lights control box, seemingly an Australian-made (aftermarket?) retrofit associated with the tow bar, and discovered several SMDs inside, distinctly marked with chip identifiers. I successfully identified the chips, traced the tracks and circuits, and determined that the box was functioning properly. The error stemmed from poor installation... although I question its relevance in this case. What is it that you are attempting to rectify or accomplish? P.S. I observe, for what it's worth, that your BCM is produced by the same manufacturer responsible for the TCM Unit (Mechatronic Lump) within the Powershift Transmission. Furthermore, for what it's worth, I do not regard the TCM unit as the origin of the Powershift's identified issues.

Do not question it; you will not know internally unless it has been disclosed or someone has reverse-engineered it elsewhere.

Amazon.co.uk : Ford

Are you referring to the PCB(s) contained within the enclosure? I question whether you will locate that elsewhere, likely confined to Ford and the original producer. Regardless, I doubt it would consist of anything more than a microcontroller chip and several peripherals to manage the I/O tasks. A more informative approach would be to disassemble it, examine the chip for any markings, and locate a reference manual for that chip; however, without comprehending the source code operating on it, I anticipate it would be of limited utility.

Greetings everyone. Is there anyone who can inform me if or where I might locate a circuit diagram for a body control module? Is this applicable to my 2015 Mk5 1.5 Ecoboost Mondeo? Salutations

After you've done the previous tests, you can see if the alternator produces a better or higher output without the limit input by removing the small wire connector plug from the alternator and then starting and running the engine again. Despite the fact that the battery indicator light will most likely illuminate, I anticipate that it will. The shifting (I assume it's automatic) doesn't seem to have anything to do with this issue, and I don't get why you would suspect a problem when the battery was 12.7V the day before, after no use, and everything seemed to be working fine.

Battery and alternator diagnostics.. Evaluation of Power Source Include the steps you took, the voltage you obtained, and the results you posted for each.

Amazon.co.uk : alternator

Greetings to all, I own a 2010 Fiesta 1.4 petrol engine and I'm from Turkey. I've been dealing with charging issues for nearly three months now, ever since I purchased this vehicle. Battery life is satisfactory at 12.6-12-7 volts when the vehicle is not in use. While it's running, it stays at a maximum of 13.2. The alternator that I replaced did not work. Then I replaced it with a pre-owned, authentic one that I bought online; it fits perfectly! Ultimately, it was the previous one that was substituted. Before leaving yesterday, I made sure the voltage was 12.7 volts, which it was when the car wasn't working, and it was. The shifting began to knock on the road at an unexpected moment. My recent discharge and recharge of my battery, along with smart charging, is likely to blame. I need some assistance figuring it out.

The video asks, "What if internal combustion engines were invented today?" Rory Sutherland, an advertising executive and behavioural scientist, offers a hypothetical scenario in which ICE cars are introduced today and electric vehicles (EVs) are already commonplace. Main Ideas from the Conversation: In his discussion of the "new" invention of the internal combustion engine, Sutherland remarks on the absurd complexity of the idea [00:00]. The process includes adding combustible liquid to a tank, lighting it on fire, and utilising intricate parts such as gearboxes, radiators, oil filters, air filters, and approximately 117 moving parts, in contrast to an electric vehicle's approximately seven [00:11]. Absence of Evident Benefits: At the 00:24 mark, he wonders what kind of pitch you could give to customers: Is it less noisy? No. ⚬ Is its performance better? Does it get dirtier? No. No. While internal combustion engine (ICE) vehicles are convenient because they can be filled up quickly, there is a major safety concern that you can't fill them up at home because it's too risky to store a lot of flammable petrol underneath a house.

No, I'm not on Facebook. Is it safe to assume that it is a balanced contribution outlining the benefits of EVs for the majority of people if it is very logical?

What does "a lot of sense" refer to? The immigrant problem, benefit scroungers, why EVs are no good? You really ought to have figured out how the internet works by now; I'm not bothered either.

So, I'm not sure

Please include a description with any videos you upload to fascistbook; otherwise, many of us will not click on them.

For a long time now, this video has circulated.

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The way Rory Sutherland is speaking is really logical:)

Great thread!was correct when they suggested moving to the hub center method. Tire profile and pressure always cloud the rim-to-arch reading, so it's worth comparing your new numbers instead. Your comfort to sport drop appears to be about correct for these vehicles, if that helps. In Sport, Airmatic lowers the front end by around 20 mm and the rear end by about 10 mm on the X218; these dimensions correspond to your 670 to 650 and 640 to 630 measurements, respectively. Therefore, nothing there shouts that something is amiss. What would actually reassure me is that the two sides read the same, 670/670 and 640/640. When the level sensors show that the airmatic is at the desired height, the struts and accumulator are evenly holding the pressure, which is why symmetric readings are important. A worn strut or a leaking accumulator would have caused one corner to sit 15 or 20 mm lower than the other. Put your worries about it drooping to rest; it appears to be level on yours. A few things to keep in mind so that other people's measurements are fair. No one else in the car, same tyre pressures, about the same amount of gas and on a flat, level surface. The readings obtained after a run and those taken after parking for some time might be slightly different because Airmatic adjusts the ride height depending on the vehicle's position. Even with the steel front, Cherrypd, your husband's rear air figure will serve as a good stand-in for the OP's Comfort rear, as both rears will self-level to their respective targets. True to what the OP stated, fronts will clash.

That would be really useful, so thank you for that. While his front suspension won't be a direct comparison due to his standard steel setup instead of full AIRMATIC, his rear air suspension measurement would be highly helpful as it should sit at its normal self-leveling height, which is pretty close to my AIRMATIC in Comfort. Personally, I believe Can he, preferably on level ground, take a vertical measurement from the center of the Mercedes star/wheel hub to the wheel-arch lip? I would greatly appreciate it if he could. Regardless of the front ends' suspension configuration, the rest of the car would be fascinating to look at. Much obliged.

My husband possesses one of these, yet it lacks your Airmatic suspension and only features the air rear suspension. His vehicle resembles your photograph. Would his stature align with your comfort preferences? Inform me, and I shall contact him to retrieve the ruler...

If someone possessing an X218 full AIRMATIC (front and rear) could measure from the center of the Mercedes emblem/wheel hub vertically to the wheel arch lip, it would be greatly appreciated. Optimal readings would be those of Comfort and Sport.