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Is every car going to cost £200? In addition to EVs and hybrids?

I understand that. Indeed, many will find a way to avoid paying, and it will be self-declared. Acquire vehicle, not complete new owner paperwork. Note that the mileage is low. Sell the car well in advance of the MOT, but don't stop there. The odds of being pursued when the perpetrator's identity remains a mystery. Eliminating fuel duties makes more sense to me. Because there have been no increases for fifteen years. Replace VED entirely to reduce EV to its minimum. Then, the VED goes up in bands as emissions get higher. There are no bands with any historical significance. Even when they pay base VED, older vehicles must be 50 years old or older to be exempt from emissions.

The idea of paying per mile is fine with me. But I shouldn't have to pay to drive my car a thousand miles across Europe and back. I am unsure of their plan to address that issue, but it really shouldn't exist. From what I gather, this will be a self-declaration supported by a MOT confirmation, allowing for the reimbursement of those thousand miles travelled throughout Europe....

Still another one. The revenue from vehicle taxes, let's face it, must originate somewhere. Income falls in tandem with ICE. I will be charged 5 pence per mile, which is 3p. The cost per mile is still significantly lower than my previous hybrid.

I'll add my signature, but with the petition's track record, I seriously doubt it will make a dent.

No 'Pay per Mile' on EVs and Hybrids in 2028 - just £200 VED - Petitions

Ceramic ones or the regular kind?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010D07MWK?ascsubtag=v1-a484af-606297-6983e434cc-d

A good ATE

For whatever it's worth, has anyone swapped out the front and rear brake pads on a G30 520D (non-XDrive) 67-plate? I got a little confused because there appear to be two versions for the fronts, even though I looked at both online. Do you have any suggestions for brands as well?

Yes, I have just learned that. I thought it might be a lift pump, but it turned out to be a nicked o ring on a leaky pipe.

it has never happened to me before!

Chatgpt isn't perfect, that's why. Avoid the pitfall of putting all your eggs in that basket.

I hope I don't have to deal with this, because it looks complicated; every morning before I turn the ignition on, I hear a gurgling sound coming from the tank. I have been pursuing this for the past three months, and chatgpt has sent me on a diagnostic house tour.

excellent article. Do you mean the left side sedner or the one with the floats? I'm having the same problem and need to know which one failed. Which one did you find to be defective?

To begin, fill the tank to a level of about 20 litres. You must still drain the left side of the saddle to a level of approximately 20 litres even if all the fuel is in the left saddle. Just four bolt head screws per cover can be unscrewed to remove the two covers (found under the back seat). Turn the lock rings with the removal tool to open them. The top connectors (on the left side of the saddle) will likely leak, so you'll need to use clean rags to mop them up. Unplug the fuel pump from the saddle and secure a string around one of the fuel connectors on the right side. (unlock connector with two push clips and one fuel supply button—yellow) While keeping an eye out for the fuel level float, remove the fuel level sensor assembly from the left hand side. Now fasten the string around the three new pipes' ends. Carefully thread them into the left-hand saddle, then thread them through the saddle's hole that connects the two sides. Carefully insert the left-hand fuel level sensor assembly into the left-hand saddle. Finally, thread the ends of the pipes into the right-hand saddle. Make sure the left-hand fuel sensor assembly is in the right place, and then attach the piping to the right-hand fuel pump. Before you put the lock ring on, check that the plastic housings are snugly encircled by the round circular washer.(The ring should have a blue mark; line it up with the attachment point's blue mark.) Turn the ring (pressing down on the washer) using the tool until it clicks into position. Be sure to fill the tank halfway. Turn the key to the second position and keep it there until the fuel pump stops; do this several times. Make sure there are no leaks or tears around the lock rings by running the engine for a while. Recheck for seams after filling the tank to capacity if it is clear. Put the covers back on after that. (To avoid wires chafing at the entry points, I added extra rubber.) Stupid mistakes: 1) Always use the correct lugs when connecting the fuel connectors; for example, the big one on top of the fuel pump is the one with the yellow button connector. One with a black rubber ring or gland goes to the one below it, and the one below that gets the one without. 2) In the event that you notice any fuel leaking around the lock ring, remove it, turn the circular washer around by, say, 90 degrees, and then lock it again. 3) As the air is being circulated out of the tank, you may hear gurgling sounds coming from it. Here is my clumsy account of how the saddle tank works: From the top, fuel is pumped to the engine via the Fuel Quantity Control Valve and the High Pressure Fuel Pump via the big (yellow button) connection to the left side fuel level assembly. Problem solved. For the fuel pump to receive the maximum amount of fuel, it is necessary to empty the left saddle in favour of the right. In addition, another pipe carries the fuel to the left-hand fuel level sensor assembly; from there, it flows through a nozzle submerged in fuel at the assembly's base, pushing fuel into a pipe that ultimately recirculates to the right-hand saddle. Everything will seem fine if there is a leak in the last two pipes, but when the fuel level drops, the leak will become apparent and air will be able to enter the fuel circulation pipes. In such case, air is redirected to the right-hand tank and the nozzle stops working. You have approximately fifteen litres of fuel remaining, according to your fuel gauge, but the right-hand saddle is empty.

along with the BRAND NEW Fuel Level Sensor assembly (as opposed to a used one).

This one is for you if you've ever been in the same boat as me and had the gas gauge read 1/4 full but still ran out: There is likely air seeping into the fuel pipes inside the tank due to brittle or broken fuel supply lines. Just replace the "fuel level sensor" on the left side of the saddle tank, not the pump. It's located on the left hand side, near the port. All three fuel pipes are included with this. Anybody can do it. Fuel tank lock ring removal tools with reasonably long 1/2" bars are required.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=Mazda+CX-30+tires

Amazon.co.uk : Bridgestone

Also received the same for my 2025 NA I adore and favour them. Compared to the awful Bridgestone OEM tires, these needed some breaking in. It rides much smoother, has better handling, and has better cornering. Looking forward to testing them out in the snow!

I recently swapped out the Michelin Cross Climate2 tires (215/55R18) for 225/55R18. Those Cross Climate2s yielded 80k for me. A fresh set of Cross Climate2s in the size 225/55R18 was out of my price range. In Maryland, they are not easy to come by. 225/55R18 Goodyear WeatherReady2s were a close second, so I went with them. I am really impressed by the Goodyear. It is too soon to tell how they stack up against Cross Climate2. Compared to the 215, the 225's wider footprint makes for better cornering.

This is a set of 235/50R18 tires. The additional width and overall size match the stock size for speedo (no change), even though the second number is different (50 vs 55). These won't protrude or sling excessively because of their narrow width.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=Pirelli+P+Zero&tag=vs-pl-cx30talk-com-20&ascsubtag=v1-f873a4-7027-bfc11bdc15-k&rel=nofollow

Here are the specs: UHP 235/50R18 Considering the car's requirements, it's likely the ideal size. Compared to the stock el440 Turanza 215/55R18 tires, the performance is significantly better, and the Speedo is unaltered. You might get slightly better results with the real brand and maybe a grand touring tire. Climate is another factor. For the southwestern desert, I opted for Pirelli P Zero AS plus threes. As a general rule, the Michelin Pilot Sports are the best UHP tires to go for more extreme weather. The 235/50R18's are fantastic. It fits this car perfectly.Removed attachment.