All Activity

one self-check that you can perform: raise the floor mat on the passenger side, remove the small black plastic ring, turn it clockwise, and insert a cotton swab into the opening. When it's wet, it means the yellow grommet has released its grip.

According to you the rear seal on light isn't going to get you a soaked boot.

Did you remove the carpet from the passenger side? Even though it seems dry on the outside, the thick layer of foam underneath makes it smell bad because it soaks up water. The "big yellow grommet" is a notoriously weak spot in the F10. Find it. Deserving of repair if the vehicle is in good shape

Good day. The odour in the trunk was the worst, but the car had been stinking for the past week. Got a little wet when I lifted the carpet flap near the boot edge; there was about an inch of murky brown water under the bag. This place had an awful odour. No water was found in the battery or control unit after cleaning, and no water was felt on the carpet linings or anywhere else in the boot or inside the car. Took it to the mechanic for further inspection. In the cabin of the vehicle, the odour persists. Vehicle is not expected to be returned to the mechanic until October 20th. Because I am disabled, I prefer to have the garage do the inspections. Should I keep it? The range of a standard garage is something I don't know.

🫠

the mileage has increased by about 20,000km after having the instrument cluster replaced by an official Mercedes dealer. The reason behind this is that Mercedes uses the actual kilometres rather than the initial kilometres since their system stores them. I don't understand. Has anyone else had this happen to them? This means the mileage might have been altered at some point... and the vehicle wasn't an authentic Mercedes-Euro import; it was imported from Japan.

Unfortunately, the mileage has increased by about 20,000km after I had the instrument cluster replaced by an official Mercedes dealer. The reason behind this is that Mercedes uses the actual kilometres rather than the initial kilometres since their system stores them. I don't understand. Has anyone else had this happen to them?

The replies are appreciated. I have exhausted all of the do-it-yourself suggestions made by both of you and AI, but the problem persists. Two Indianapolis garages were unable to resolve the issue; one even proposed swapping out the instrument cluster—excuse the pun—because it incorporates the brain. Finally took it to a Mercedes dealer, but they couldn't fix the cluster or clear the messages either. They suggested getting a new one. The vehicle is based in Cyprus, so my choices are limited. As they prepare to order the part from Germany, the cost is estimated to be £1500 plus. It is highly unlikely that they will be able to re-program an old device. Does this make sense?

Are you able to code scan? Just like before, the car started but the battery voltage is low, meaning its reserves were likely depleted. Connect it to a power source and erase all of the codes.

Since I'm not an expert, I figured I'd search up "check your battery health." If everything seems fine, then disconnect and reconnect, and drive around for about three minutes. AI recommended the above, but you should also try the other things, the ones you can handle on your own. If you still need help, you can always wait for an expert to respond to your question. Just a personal recommendation: after setting it up and driving it, check the battery health. Just make sure the lights are still on, okay? Regarding AI - tread carefully Due to the loss of calibration data and communication memory by the vehicle's computer modules, numerous dashboard warning lights will remain illuminated in a Mercedes-Benz B-Class when the battery is fully disconnected or drained. Because the modules have already recorded "low voltage" fault codes that need to be cleared or reset, removing the battery again will not resolve the issue. numbers 1 through 3 Here are the steps to turn off the lights: 1. Adjust the steering wheel by resetting the angle sensors. A common cause of the power steering, anti-lock brakes, and electronic stability program lights remaining on is when the steering angle sensor forgets where you were. Recalibration is a simple DIY project: [1, 2]. Get the engine going and keep it there in Park or Neutral. Press the lock while fully angling the steering wheel to the left. Once you reach the lock, turn the wheel to the right until it stops. Turn off the engine, center the wheel, wait 30 seconds, and then start the car again. It is expected that the traction and steering lights will go out. [1] 2. Go for a Quick Drive in the Car In order to readjust parameters such as tyre pressure and wheel speed sensors, modern Mercedes vehicles necessitate a short driving cycle. Maintain a safe driving pace for ten to fifteen minutes. The computer will automatically turn off many of the remaining yellow warning lights once it detects consistent data from all wheels and the engine reaches operating temperature. numbers 1 through 3 Step 3: Remove Stored Error Codes The Check Engine and SRS (airbag) lights will not be able to self-clear if they are left on. After two months of sitting, the voltage drops so low that the car's memory stores "undervoltage" errors. numbers 1–4 An OBD-II diagnostic scanner, which you or a mechanic will have to plug into the port beneath the dashboard, is required. Get some piece of mind by running a comprehensive health scan, recording the codes, and then selecting Clear/Erase Fault Memory. 1 and 2 4. Get the Battery Checked After two months of total discharge, a car battery can develop sulfation, a condition in which it can maintain a surface charge but die under load. This damage is permanent and affects the battery's internal components. Even if your alternator is in good working order, the dashboard lights will keep coming on if your battery isn't able to keep a constant charge. A free battery and alternator load test is available at most local auto parts stores and garages. numbers 1 through 3 Also, keep in mind that a tiny Auxiliary Battery (usually found in the footwell or dashboard area) is standard on many B-Class models. If the primary battery died, the backup battery is probably dead too, and you'll keep seeing the "Battery Visit Workshop" message until you replace it. Are the lights red or yellow? That should help narrow it down [1, 2]. You can help me identify the system that is malfunctioning by telling me which warning lights are still lit, such as ABS, Engine, or Battery. [1]

After being parked for about two months... B class 2016 petrol b180 All of the warning lights turned on when the car started. Vehicle is operational, but warning lights remain illuminated. The problem persisted even after I tried to reset it by removing the battery and leaving it alone for an hour. Swimming suit. All the warning lights are on, but the rev counter isn't functioning... Not working: reverse cam, but stops and starts are fine.

When you initially acquired this vehicle, what was the mileage? It sounds like blisters caused by trapped moisture; I'm sorry to hear that.

Although I did not encounter the identical problem, I did have to have my 2025 PHEV—also painted Artisan Red—repaired by Mazda due to a paint flaw. You can find more information about the issue, along with pictures, in posts that I've made about paint. To find out if you have a choice of body shop, you should contact the dealerand/or Corporate. The dealer insisted on using a body shop they had previously selected and had used for all of their body and paint jobs, so I know I had no say in the matter. It seems like the clear coat is of higher quality than the factory paint, and I'm happy with the results. No fresh paint problems have surfaced in the repainted area (i.e., the majority of the front end) for the past twelve months. Keep in mind that it is not easy to match paint colours, especially Artisan Red and similar 3-stage paint jobs. The paint's metallic flake may not lay flat like the original paint, so the colour may appear slightly different in different lights, even though they're identical.

There shouldn't be any negative impact on you when the lease is up. As with any other warranty repair, or even professionally performed body work. The competence of the repair shop is my sole worry. I have no reservations about taking my car to a reputable body shop in my area for a respray. They may be able to achieve an even more precise colour match than the factory when painting metal panels and plastic bumpers. On the flip side, though, terrible painting... Perhaps things won't improve much from where they are now. The repair shop is up to you when it comes to collisions. However, how that relates to the paint defect warranty repair is something I'm not clear on. Must it be a particular store? Does any store belong to the "Mazda Collision Network"? You might also try selecting a store and getting their stamp of approval. Seeing the shop and their work is a must if you have the chance. Most reputable businesses are pleased to show you their office and the finished products because they are proud of their work. (If you give a general area, maybe you'll get some recommendations for stores that people here are familiar with.) Concerning the inquiry as to whether or not other people are experiencing the same problems... The CX-90 in our driveway is the only one I can speak for, but the paint job is amazing. As far as I can tell, it is flawless and devoid of any flaws. Reflections barely show any waveform. The painting is of exceptional quality. However, their vehicle production is in the thousands. On occasion, some will inevitably experience problems. It might be related to surface preparation or contamination in your situation.

In late June, I leased a brand new 2026 Mazda CX-90 PHEV Premium Sport AWD. Upon handling it, I detected a rough, sandpaper-like texture on some areas of the exterior paint; however, it was not apparent when exposed to direct sunlight. It was first explained by the vendor as transportation protective film residue. I took it back to the dealer a few weeks later, and their paint expert finally agreed that there are a lot of tiny bubbles, pinholes, and other flaws in the paint and clearcoat. There are dozens of flaws per square inch in some spots, and they're visible in some lights and when you touch them. It seems like the hood, front fenders, bumper/trim, and maybe even both front doors are in the path of the damage. The dealership first stated they would not recommend painting a brand-new car. The current plan from Mazda is to have a certified body shop repaint the entire front end—fenders, hood, bumper, and trim—as part of the warranty repair. The dealer stated that they do not have any control over the matter as Mazda has the final say. My main worry is that this is a completely new, accident-free car that needs a lot of body and paint work done. Since it is a leased vehicle, I am also worried that the repair may lower its value or cause me problems when my lease is up. Does anyone else have experience with major paint defects on a CX-90 from the factory? Did Mazda or the dealer figure out what was causing them? If so, what repair were they able to do, and how long did it last? This is excessive for a brand-new vehicle, even though I adore the vehicle. My first option would have been to return it and get a replacement from Mazda, but they aren't going to do that. If anyone has experienced this problem with a brand new leased CX-90, I would greatly appreciate hearing from them.

Amazon.co.uk : Camry

Do any of you ever have trouble turning the ignition key when the wheel is fully turned to the left or right? It happens to me occasionally when I'm working on the car or in a parking situation. I have to rock the wheel and jiggle the key to get it to go back to "normal" again. Is it time to get a new ignition switch? Hell yeah, I've got four sets of keys! By the way, I came across a bunch of videos on YouTube showing how to change the ignition switch on a Gen 4 Camry. The videos show it being pretty easy to do with the key, but without it, you'll need to be patient.

After six years of sitting outside, rusting from the bottom up, a car that is twenty-five years old is probably already scrap. Some businesses will even come to you to collect your junk car and pay you what it's worth in scrap metal. The other option is to remove the trim around the steering column to gain access. Then, using a small chisel and hammer, unscrew the security bolts that attach the key cylinder assembly to the side of the column. This will allow you to extract the locking mechanism, which will allow you to turn the steering wheel. For my older vehicles, I have done this on multiple occasions. The tops of the security bolts are visible once you remove the trim, so you can see that they are surprisingly easy to identify (hint: they don't have a head, just a smooth dome). A nearby locksmith can accomplish the task in a matter of minutes if you're in a true jam.

Huge equipment lift!

Indeed, the key is to focus on finding a solution.

The video was absolutely "AGG-ravating!"

Obtain a replacement keyed ignition cylinder and install it in place of the broken or damaged one. Just watch the video without worrying about the jargon; it's all over the place.

I wouldn't bother attempting to bypass the steering lock anymore after damaging the key cylinder. Since the steering lock is a mechanical component of the ignition/column assembly on a 2001 Camry, a broken cylinder would cause the wheel to remain locked even though the steering-lock mechanism is still in use. The steering lock is an anti-theft mechanism, so I will not show you how to defeat it. However, there are significantly simpler solutions for your primary objective, which is to move the vehicle a short distance within your own property without a key: Set up wheel skates or dollies beneath the front wheels. Since the 2001 Camry has front-wheel drive, shifting into neutral and then positioning the front tires on suitable automotive dollies enables you to move it without steering. Use four wheel dollies—one under each tire—to free the rear wheels that have been sitting for six years. A tow truck service that has a flatbed or self-loading wheel-lift can move it in a matter of minutes without needing a key. Additionally, a mobile automotive locksmith can evaluate the broken ignition; however, they will typically require proof of authorisation to work on the vehicle, as it is owned by someone else. Instead of sloppy, inexpensive furniture dollies, I would use rated hydraulic wheel dollies for a brief move across the yard or driveway. To level the vehicle, you simply lift it off its wheels using jacks, lower it onto the dolly, shift into neutral, let go of the parking brake, and roll it. Use wheel chocks to maintain a level surface and steady the vehicle until you are ready to move it. Additionally, put the screwdriver out of its ignition mode. Changing the steering column becomes a relatively easy locksmith or ignition cylinder job if the lock housing gets damaged.

A friend requested that I keep their 2001 Camary on my property. I still haven't been able to reach him after all these years. I need to relocate it to a different part of the property, but I don't have the key. The steering wheel is locked, but I can shift into neutral. Can the steering wheel be unlocked? The wheel remains locked even after I hammered a screwdriver into the key slot; all it does is spin around. Much obliged.

"Oil starvation" ?? My motorcycle is twenty years old and has a rudimentary system for monitoring the engine oil level. It basically says, "Hey, stupid, pour a litre of oil into the sump whenever you have a moment, or else I'll explode." Nobody knows for sure if the dashboard alerted the driver to the impending oil starvation because it is not mentioned in the article.