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Thanks for getting back to me. I'm going to use my handyman skills to fix it myself. I plan to inject foaming dpf cleaner into the thicker pipe that is attached to the dpf diff pressure sensor above the turbo assembly. I watched some videos from O Riley Autos and he does a lot of dpf cleans on the go and usually doesn't need to force regen because the cleaner does the job. I'll keep you posted once I finish. Cheers!

Would you like to hire a mobile DPF guy to come to your house or place of business, or do you intend to perform it yourself? Even though I don't know how much they cost, I have seen several of them on YouTube. I am genuinely interested in knowing how often DIY projects succeed compared to those that are handled by professionals.

It appears to require a regen due to the impending DPF issue. Does the regen have any restrictions? There may be an issue with the MAF, but it could be caused by something else. I'm not an expert, but maybe if you probed more, you could find out. I figured Foxwell would be a good diagnostic tool, but I haven't really utilised it.

The EML light turned on, and the two codes that showed up were DPF and MAF sensor. I was wondering if anyone has any experience with cleaning the DPF on a 2014 Vito 113 diesel and could give me some pointers. Thank you!

According to what I've read, when compared to other automakers, Mazda has one of the best implementations of cylinder-deactivation systems, particularly the more recent and improved versions. Among the many complaints about cylinder-deactivation that I've seen posted on Mazda owner forums recently is the fact that switching modes can sometimes cause certain drivers to feel a harsh or uncomfortable sensation. Still others insist it works like a charm (for them, at least right now). Because Mazda and other automakers didn't adequately reinforce some engine components to endure the additional chronic stress, earlier versions of cylinder deactivation have more documented problems and serious issues associated with it. The stress and wear on an engine and its components caused by stop/start and cylinder deactivation are higher compared to an identical engine without these "features," even with identical treatment and maintenance. Its statistical life expectancy will be lower unless the manufacturer has adequately invested in and reinforced the several components that would be subjected to greater stress, as this is the natural consequence of the laws of physics. The same holds true for turbo engines as well. To alleviate some of the possible longevity issues, you should be more proactive (lower interval) with oil change services (& use the best quality oil) to make sure the oil is always functioning at its best and never shears out of grade. However, with the right care and attention to detail, even engines and components that are more complex and under more stress can still manage 200,000 miles or more—barring flaws in the materials or design or manufacturing process. For starters, I'd rather not have any of those "features" in my car, therefore I stay away from them. Maintaining simplicity and straightness reduces unpredictability. Modern aggressive cost-cutting tactics employed by automakers and increased complexity (sometimes for stupid or needless reasons) are enemies of longer-term reliability. However, in most cases, these bad modifications for end users have been imposed on us by intrusive government laws, leading to less dependable and generally more difficult and complicated automobiles, particularly after the warranty has expired.

It is comforting to hear that. Thank you.

Perfectly fine...160,000 km

I have one from 2021. It is said to work in both normal and sport modes, however I have never used it myself. Whenever I'm coasting or holding an even position for an extended period of time, my mine runs.

Sorry, but our car doesn't have a CD player. Someone else informed me that all they have to do is run in Sport Mode.

I know CD has been discussed extensively, but I couldn't discover anything new about it when I searched. I was wondering if anyone had a high-mileage owner of our model. Got any issues? Is there a way to turn it off?

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Regrettably, they bear the blame! Have the Insurance Ombudsman look into it!

To tell the truth, they don't appear to care.

Were you referring to the response you got from a certified insurance repair shop? Notify the insurance carrier if the fault was not there before.

I can't seem to get the module itself to show up in the scanner, and I just got my car back from the insurance company with a canbus/esp problem. Does this mean the module is dead?

Like yours, PHEV's two are in perfect alignment throughout the summer, but when the weather turns chilly, they're just a couple of miles apart at the base. Therefore, temperature affects the material they are constructed from. Negligible ones, though, can be negligible. I beheld a 22-inch bronze plate that was, in fact, shaped like a banana. Poking your fingers through the opening would be quite an adventure. Those people who were pushed out by the fuel filler aren't the same people, in my opinion.

This was the first thing I did when I got my brand-new 2023 HEV (73 plate) from the dealer; there was a lot of discussion on the subject on the forums back then. It worked good, although I also saw a little misalignment towards the summer's conclusion. They refused to take any action because my VIN wasn't listed in the production run, even though I enquired about it during the 2-year servicing in November. I didn't care to investigate it because, to be honest, it's barely perceptible, and winter is here. Would it be possible to have a second look once it warms up? 🤪

I Had it on my 2022 Sportage, after reading several other owners had the same problem i was gutted, i wanted to be unique and be the only person ever to have a faulty cap that wouldnt fit flush against the rest of the bodywork so I took it back to where I bought it and told them about it, to my surprise i didnt have to book it in and come back in a month`s time, the service manager said they could fix it straight away, make yourself a cup of drink and get comfy, literally about 45 minutes later my car was back outside and keys were handed back to the girl on reception, then both me and the service manager went outside and inspected it and it was as i imagined it to be, a snug, flat fitting fuel cap, I asked how did they mend it, he said it`s to do with where the rubber filler pipe fits the metal neck of the fuel tank, for some reason when they fit it in the factory they dont tighten it up and as the vehicle was driven around with fuel in it the tank it moves about a bit till it settles down and because the pipe fixings aren`t tight it pushes the filler pipe against the filler cap forcing it out, al the technician does is relocates the rubber filler neck over the metal neck and tightens it up, never to be taken apart again i add!!