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Apologies for the typo, but it is a 68 plate. Thank you for the correction.

Do you mean a Venga with the number 68 on the side? The first plate would be a 60 (or an extremely late 59) because Venga's didn't arrive in the UK until 2010. According to rpaco and Zebster, it may take some gimmickry to get the system to recognise things. This is exactly what happened to my daughter on her 14-plate. She experienced one corner reporting low, meaning the sensor was still reading, but due to the cold, that wheel may have dropped below the alert threshold. A little air pressure, five miles of running, and it's good to go. Obviously, if the sensor isn't giving any readings at all, it might be past its expiration date or the battery may be dead. If you need to replace it, you can do it by looking inside the tyre, as the TPMS sensor is actually part of the valve. When TPMS systems were initially implemented, they were incredibly costly to replace (as is the case with any new technology). However, now that they are considered a replaceable part, they are relatively inexpensive, and tyre shops are usually prepared to handle them if you ever need a replacement. The cost should be reasonable, considering that a Venga is obviously not an exotica. Based on my research, it is expected that you will replace the battery in your TPMS when you replace your tires, as it is designed to last around 10 years, which is the same interval as when you replace your tires. However, that schedule can become disorganised due to things like punctures requiring tyre replacement mid-cycle.

This happens to mine every year as the weather gets colder and the pressures drop a little. I notice that it needs a bit more air in the tires before I go for a half-hour ride. The body's systems need time to adjust to the new demands.

Has it gone blank or is that corner still giving readings? The sensor is most likely still operational and the system has not reset if it is reading... I don't know if it's a manual process on your vehicle, but mine requires me to inflate the tyre to a pressure of approximately 5 psi, then drive in a circle until the warning light goes out, and lastly, inflate it to the recommended pressure.

Tire Pressure Monitoring System TPMS, Solar Power Universal Wireless Car Alarm System with 4 External Sensors, LCD Real-time Display 4 Tires' Pressure & Temperature Alerts Ensure Safe Driving(Red) : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

Amazon.co.uk : Google

Based on my research, tpms cost between £10 and £20 each. Some even come preprogrammed. Then, you'll have to shell out another £20 to have it fitted. For a supply and fit price, it's best to contact your neighbourhood tire shop. That way, you can enquire about warranties. It's likely that the sensor is faulty or that the battery has died.

The under-inflation warning light keeps going off on the front driver's side of my 58-plate Venga. I checked, and it's fine, but a warning message keeps popping up. What is the cost to replace it? Does the valve alone require replacement?Thank you for any guidance.

Are the back tires good for traction? You probably don't want x-drive to make a big difference. I meant no harm in ruining your Christmas.

Lodge a claim with the council; I did so previously after damaging a tyre and a wheel that had just been refurbished. I used a tape measure to snap a photo of a pothole in

Wishing you the best of luck and understanding your pain. :' (

https://www.amazon.com/s?ascsubtag=v1-a484af-606747-3fa05ffbbb-k&k=BMW+xDrive

Just before Christmas, my car hit a pothole and a bubble popped up on the non-slip tyre. I'll have to buy a new set because my car is an xdrive, so you can imagine how unhappy I am.

They have mixed up the plug wires and switched them around between different cylinders. So far as I'm informed, the blame has not been traced. Tomorrow I will also confirm this.

When replacing a coil, wire, and plug, do it all at once. Wear and tear on the wires and spark plugs can ruin even a brand-new coil. If the wire is internally brittle or behaves up when heated, resistance won't reveal it. A fuel delivery problem is probably not to blame for the lean or rich misfire, since 1% is excellent. The missing tip is something that would worry me. Hopefully, it just blew the exhaust and spared the engine from any harm. I'd swap out the coil pack and wires, or at least use a known good one, and start over. You should also double-check the coil's low-voltage wires and connector.

Since I did not replace the plugs, I am unsure about their condition. I seem to recall hearing that one of the plugs was missing its tip, but I can't place it. I agree that the lack of replacement for the spark plug leads could be the source of the problems. All of their cylinders have a resistance of 2.2 kohms. There was real-time information for "Richness correction" in my scantool (Autocom). Depending on the throttle position, the value ranged from about 0.7% to 1%. We will take compression measurements tomorrow. My understanding is that, with the exception of the plug missing its tip, none of the new parts are significantly different from the old ones.

When the spark plugs were removed, how did they appear? Were the spark plug wires replaced? You said you were going to check them. Is a scan tool an option for checking the fuel trims? Is it possible for you to verify that each cylinder's compression is equal? Did the symptoms improve or worsen after you changed any components?

Indeed, coil pack. For these engines, an NGK coil has taken its place, if that is relevant at all.

D4F features a coil pack that is always stocked.

Please verify that this is a coil pack and not a set of pencil coils. Since you've already replaced the pack, it's unlikely that it's a breakdown, but if you're still seeing misfires on 1 and 3, it could be an issue with the electrics that are powering the pack.

Hi there! At the moment, my 2013 Clio's D4F-722 engine is giving me trouble. Even after multiple investigations, the problem remains unresolved. Then, what exactly is wrong? Just as the engine is getting hot, misfiring will begin abruptly. Aside from the misfire event's recorded DTCs, the MIL begins flashing and the wrench and ESP symbols light up. If you rev the engine past 2500 rpm, it will run smoothly again and the MIL light will not flash. Be aware that the engine starts misfiring the second the revolutions per minute (rpm) drop below 2500 rpm, but gains power instantly at that point. How the car won't misfire "logically" is another strange thing. It might begin misfiring as soon as it warms up, or it could start 30 kilometres later. When the engine is misfiring, you can fix it for X amount of time by turning it off and then back on again. What other people have done or substituted: Array of coils End caps Measurement of crank position Resistance measurement of plug leads My accomplishments: Valve adjusting Gaskets that cover valves Gaskets used on intake manifolds As it begins to malfunction, there are a few DTCs that can be recorded: Misfire in Cyl 1 Problem with Cyl 3 Found a misfire while fuel levels are low Fumes from pollutants Occasionally, while driving normally, you might hear a "Pollutant misfire" or "Cyl 1 or 3 misfire" even though the MIL isn't flashing or the engine isn't running rough. It seems to reason that we should start searching for an electrical component since the RPMs have such a significant impact on the misfires. After the engine has cooled down tomorrow, I will check the valve clearances again. This is just a brainstorming session, so please accept my apologies in advance if the post is badly worded.

🙈🙈🙈

Is anyone here? In the event that I were to purchase a similar E250 radar sensor from a wreckers, it would be a win-win. Will I have to calibrate it first, or can I just plug it in?

By accident, I posted it in the engine section, but no one responded. So, I moved it to the right place, where I'm hoping someone will be able to help me find my problem.

Are you sure you didn't start a new thread on Saturday specifically for this?