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It is advisable to inspect all o-rings and seals on the turbo outlet (aluminium pipe) leading to the resonator (plastic box at the front of the engine) and the intercooler. I believe your 2010 model possesses the same or a very similar engine as my 2009 E280. I recently completed all my maintenance, and the performance has significantly improved; it drives much better than before. I previously underestimated its condition, but I now recognise how slow the throttle response and downshifts were. Several of these seals may have been compromised during the installation of the new intake, which is how I realised mine need replacement, as I subsequently experienced a check engine light owing to multiple leaks, including a boost leak at the intercooler pipe. I wanted to bring this to your attention, although you may already be aware. Here is a highly beneficial link that I utilised.

Disconnected the negative connection for 20 minutes while I replaced the fuel filter today. Currently, it is idling more effectively.

You may reset it by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes.

I apologise, everyone. I did not receive notifications regarding your responses. I ultimately resolved it. The MAF was indeed defective. I purchased a pre-owned Y-Pipe in superior condition than mine, which included one MAF. I transferred my functional MAF to it, and it accurately registered the temperature and airflow readings. Nevertheless, I occasionally have a minor hitch after startup. Avantgarde indicated at Clevedon that the adjustments must be recalibrated for optimal performance. The issue is that I currently reside in Scotland, necessitating the search for a reputable independent establishment in Edinburgh. All local garages I have contacted have provided a standard quotation of approximately £90 for one hour of service. I would be more advantageous to purchase a superior fault reader for the two minutes required to reset it.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=maf sensor&campid=5338181132&customid=2518X1570512Xf9175ef9d38da883b58403db99c3c9e4&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&subId2=15&toolid=10001

Does a new MAF sensor require coding, or is it plug-and-play?

It is uncertain if this information will be beneficial, but when my MAF sensor was offline due to a missing fuse, a prominent characteristic was difficult upshifts. If your vehicle is an automatic and you are encountering the same issue, it likely indicates a malfunctioning MAF sensor. - presuming that MB configures the transmission ECU to default to elevated line pressures in the absence of MAF sensor data, as observed in my 4L 80E.

How is it functioning?Whenever I experienced MAF failure, the vehicles operated quite poorly.

Well I've just replaced the temp sensor and I'm not surprised but it didn't fix the issue. Upon disconnecting Sensor A, I observed that its temperature remains at 79°C while Sensor B's temperature decreases to 21°C. Upon disconnecting Sensor B, both temperatures stabilise at 79°C. The subsequent course of action appears to be attempting a costly MAF replacement, unless someone possesses other insights.

Greetings, everyone. I am receiving many trouble codes on my 2010 E350. The initial focus is on the Air Intake Temperature sensor, which I intend to replace due to the original appearing contaminated, and the cost is sufficiently low. I was informed that the codes are associated with a defective MAF sensor. Enclosed are the codes and the real-time readings from my Maf sensors. Disconnecting sensor B results in a value of 0g. Upon disconnecting Sensor A, the readout displays 166g, while Sensor B subsequently increases to 8g. I am willing to invest in a replacement MAF, but I seek guidance before proceeding with the expenditure.

Affirmative! All new Mazda vehicles in the United States are accompanied by a 3-year/36,000-mile New Vehicle Limited Warranty and a complimentary 3-year/unlimited mileage 24/7 roadside assistance package. Roadside help encompasses towing, jump-starts, tyre replacements and lockout services.

I recently acquired a certified pre-owned 2023 CX-30, and the warranty brief explicitly indicates that emergency roadside assistance is included for the duration of the 7-year or 100,000-mile CPO limited powertrain warranty. Towing is specified to the nearest Mazda dealership. I question whether a new vehicle would possess anything inferior.

In Canada, our warranty includes three years of roadside assistance with unlimited mileage. We receive a comprehensive warranty for three years with unlimited mileage, and a powertrain warranty for five years with unlimited mileage. The roadside assistance, included in our warranty, provides complimentary towing to the nearest Mazda dealership, and if a breakdown occurs more than 100 km from home, it also covers hotel accommodations and meals.

In Canada, we receive three years of roadside support, along with unlimited mileage. Three years of comprehensive coverage with unlimited mileage and five years of powertrain coverage with unlimited mileage.

According to my knowledge, the guarantee includes Mazda roadside assistance. I am uncertain about the maximum distance they can tow it.

In Sweden, towing is not encompassed within the warranty but is instead part of the assistance coverage or can be added as an endorsement to the car insurance. If you possess such coverage, the vehicle will be transported to the nearest authorised service provider. Assistance is included for the initial three years, with an additional year granted for each service performed at a Mazda dealership. Therefore, I recommend examining the specifics of the towing coverage.

Initially, I have had no issues with my 2025 CX-30 2.5S, and hence this inquiry is purely for curiosity's sake. There are approximately 550 Mazda dealerships in the U.S., in contrast to over 2,000 for certain other brands, with some states having only a single-digit number of dealers. Warranty repairs must be conducted by an authorised Mazda dealership. In the event that one of our vehicles becomes undriveable due to a warranty issue, is towing to the nearest Mazda dealership covered under the guarantee?

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If the issue is confined to the jacking points, these can be repaired by welding sheet metal over them, thus restoring functionality. A few years prior, the cost was $150 per jacking point, potentially extending the lifespan by an additional 2 to 5 years. If additional components, such as the rear subframe, are compromised, it is deemed a scrapper, as further investment is unwarranted.

Certainly utilise eBay for this purpose. I anticipate a minimum of £500, as there are numerous appealing items included.

Indeed, it is the reason I sold my E46 saloon, 53 plate, 204 horsepower, 6-speed manual. Euro 4 without DPF, 157,000 miles; I added 60,000 miles over five years. Purchased for £3,650 and sold for £1,500. The vehicle experienced little issues, namely the water pump and thermostat; even the clutch was original.and battery, 2013 to 2018, enduring fond recollections

If you still appreciate the vehicle, rectify the rust issues. That engine is expected to increase the mileage you have already achieved without significant issues.

Greetings everyone, I have been an infrequent user of this site for an extended period, but this is my first time registering; I seek the insights of this esteemed community. I have owned a 2012 E46 330d M-Sport manual touring with 204 horsepower, and it has shown to be exceptionally reliable. It is mechanically sound; nonetheless, it has succumbed to corrosion. It failed the MOT today due to corrosion around the sills, chassis structure, and jacking points. The garage estimates that repairs could exceed £1,000, leading me to believe that it may no longer be financially feasible. The engine has 142,000 miles, has had a swirl flap deletion, and received a new clutch and flywheel around three years ago. It operates exceptionally well; I thoroughly enjoy driving it, making this a rather sombre day. While it is convenient to summon scrappers, it seems somewhat unethical given the abundance of salvageable components. Is there a demand for these components? Should I attempt to sell it in its current condition on Gumtree or eBay? Thank you in advance.

Simply open the door, position your knee between it and the car body to prevent it from closing, and softly yet firmly apply pressure on the top corner. Repeat this process until the door is sufficiently aligned to be flush. You will be astonished by its ease of bending. It must be positioned slightly deeper than anticipated to achieve a minimal spring action and exert sufficient pressure against the seal to prevent weather infiltration.

Thank you very much. I will examine both of your points.