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Upon receiving the car, I desire to have a temporary spare wheel prepared for installation. I will not be acquiring the authentic Mazda kit due to its cost exceeding £600, but I require information on its compatibility with a Bose subwoofer and whether padding is necessary between the subwoofer and the spare wheel.

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Numerous friction material deposits were present at the bottom of the pan; however, the mechanic who replaced my ATF and filter reported that the interior of the gearbox appeared pretty clean.

The ATF level is accurate and has been verified. The mechanic who conducted the most recent inspection of the vehicle informed me that there is certainly an issue with the valve body, and it is quite probable that there is also deterioration in the clutch packs. This remains a possibility, as the vehicle has not undergone live data diagnostics; nonetheless, based on the symptoms, multiple individuals have indicated that repairing this gearbox may not be economically viable.

The gearbox exhibited this issue prior to the fluid change. I utilised authentic Mercedes ATF and added a new genuine Mercedes connector plug. Transmission fluid was present within the previous plug. The gearbox pan utilised non-OEM bolts, and the drain bolt was stripped, indicating that an inexperienced individual had previously serviced the gearbox before my acquisition of the vehicle. I have possessed the vehicle for around one year.

When did the difficulties commence? Prior to or subsequent to the ATF modification? Is a reputed oil brand utilised? Is the oil level verified twice? Is the TCU and connecting plug devoid of oil?

Greetings, I want counsel concerning the transmission of my E270 CDI. Below is a comprehensive account of the issue along with pertinent facts that may assist. Vehicle Identification Number (VIN): WDB2110161A309273 Transmission: 722.640 (variant 04) The issue: When the gearbox is cold, the 1–2 upshift might be excessively abrupt and occurs prematurely, approximately at 1600–1700 RPM. However, when the gearbox reaches a temperature of approximately 80–90°C, I have a distinct issue between 2nd and 3rd gear. As the vehicle nears 2000 RPM, the RPM begins to increase autonomously, suggesting a potential loss of hydraulic pressure or slippage in the gearbox, even in the absence of further throttle application. The RPM experiences a little spike and varies for around 2 to 3 seconds until the gear ultimately engages. The gearbox is unable to maintain pressure or execute a seamless 2–3 shift until it "catches" and finalises the transition. The ATF was replaced 500 kilometres ago, along with a new filter and connecting plug. My enquiries: Should I disassemble the gearbox to examine the valve body or clutch packs, or is it more prudent to seek a quality used 722.640 unit? Which transmissions are compatible with my vehicle? Is my vehicle exclusively compatible with the 722.640 gearbox from the 2.7 CDI? Are transmissions from other engines (2.2 CDI, 3.2 CDI, petrol engines) compatible? If they are physically compatible, are they also electronically and hydraulically compatible? Any guidance or insights would be very valued. I appreciate your assistance in advance!

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e I possess the identical vehicle; the handling is intriguing. Dragonslayer evokes memories of a video game on my initial computer

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Hello everyone, I would want to introduce myself to all of you. I am the new owner of a 2020 Niro EV 4 trim. I am now pleased with the car; it is advantageous to have greater range compared to my previous 40 kW Leaf. I have successfully completed a software upgrade, enabling the usage of the Kia Connect app. I have installed new front and rear discs and pads due to rust and glazing. I will change the gearbox fluid next when I get time.

I acknowledge your issue; but, at present, that is the sole manual I am aware of that provides coverage. By joining the 'official' club, the Mercedes-Benz Club, members gain access to the Mercedes-Benz Workshop Information System (WIS) and the Electronic Parts Catalogue (EPC), which are the same resources utilised by the dealer network. Mercedes-Benz permits this exclusively to one 'official' club in each country.

I will disassemble the pump this weekend to inspect it and the sprocket cam for signs of wear. A new Pierberg pump, following multiple model revisions, has ostensibly resolved the issues associated with earlier versions; yet, I remain apprehensive about the potential, albeit unlikely, risk of foreign objects entering the engine and interfering with the timing chain.

A friend installed a Honda Blackbird engine in a Smart Fortwo, and due to the Honda engine's insufficient vacuum for the brakes, he incorporated an electric vacuum pump from a Jaguar. That was effective, and while one might be inclined to believe that the smart can be quickly halted, it is not the case without a servo.

Thank you, DenishP4. I have not experienced much success with Haynes manuals, as they often lack sufficient detail on certain topics, but I will attempt to utilise them.

https://uk.haynes.com/products/mercedes-benz-124-series-petrol-diesel-1985-aug-1993-haynes-repair-manual

The handbook can be ordered online from the Haynes website; refer to the link below.

The Haynes manual, number 3253, unequivocally addresses that engine. I have utilised it for several years for my various petrol models, as evidenced by the photographs below, including the page indicating its applicability to your specific engine.

I recently acquired a 1986 W124 300D, featuring a single previous owner and equipped with the OM 603.912 engine. The vacuum pump and timing chain should be inspected at 400,000 kilometres, notwithstanding its excellent performance. Regrettably, the owner did not maintain the service records, and considering the issues encountered with pump failures and dirt obstructing the timing chain, inspecting the pump is critical. Is there a suggested alternative to bulletproof materials? Has anyone installed an electric pump or alternator with a connected vacuum pump, similar to Japanese truck configurations? Could someone perhaps recommend a workshop handbook for this vehicle and engine? All online references are to American vehicles equipped with turbocharged engines. Thank you in advance.

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I had my back windows tinted by a competent glazing business and do not regret the additional expense. The tint matched that of an FF tint and required 36 hours to complete, as all the back windows were removed for the process. A poorly executed tint job is visually unappealing. The individual declined to complete the fronts, while I had no desire for them to be done. The sole maintenance recommendation he provided was to refrain from using the rear windows for 48 hours to ensure optimal adhesion of the tint. I have never seen an issue with it, and it is definitely worth the £200 invested.

Who informed you about that? I am aware of numerous individuals in the scene who have been apprehended by law enforcement and compelled to remove it immediately or incur a penalty. If you are having the tint applied by a professional, they should be aware of the legal tint limit for front windows and guide you accordingly. If they are not, seek services elsewhere, since they are misusing the term 'professional.'