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The original poster was present for around five minutes and has not been seen since. Ideally on a VW platform where he can receive additional assistance.

I likely read it too hastily and misinterpreted it as "egg basket".

Valve stem oil seals, as a general principle.However, verify the level of the brake fluid reservoir. Conduct a cylinder pressure test; it will determine whether the issue lies with the rings. However, given your low mileage, it is unlikely.

If the egg gasket has failed, it is no little matter!

Preliminary proofreading before to posting on a VW forum would be beneficial. Although we all commit typographical errors, this particular post is challenging to decipher. I hope the "egg gasket" does not require a substantial expenditure. 😒👍

The VW 1.4TSi generation was characterised by timing chain elongation and wastegate complications. As previously said, a Mercedes forum is likely not the most suitable venue for obtaining help.

Have you encountered a comparable diagnosis on a VW or Golf forum?

White smoke emanating from the exhaust indicates that the engine is consuming oil. Piston rings are deteriorated.

Hello, I require assistance with my 2009 Golf TSI GT 1.4, which I purchased approximately four weeks ago. There is no necessity to fail the MOT regarding admittance. I consulted several mechanics prior to purchasing the car regarding their assessments of potential issues. It is primarily suggested that it likely requires a proper flashing. The vehicle has recorded barely 87,000 miles and has averaged merely 5,000 miles annually since its inception. I have performed a comprehensive repair on the automobile, including an oil change and replacement of the fuel filter. There was no water in the oil, and the coolant is intact. However, the vehicle emits significant white smoke and struggles to reach the redline between 3,000 and 4,000 RPMs. Individuals have suggested that the issue is with the egg gasket; nonetheless, I fail to comprehend how this might be the case, given that there is no loss of water and no contamination of the oil. I would greatly appreciate assistance or guidance regarding your thoughts on the matter. Thank you

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I believe it is time to proceed with my plan, which has been in development for several years. I aimed to minimise risks and avoid incurring debts while establishing it. I now need to purchase one or two two-post ramps; I have already acquired most of the necessary equipment, with significant expenses incurred for an Autel device and other diagnostic tools, including a scope. Additionally, I am considering constructing a DPF cat cleaner that can wash filters without necessitating their complete removal from vehicles, particularly for all Generation 3 cars, which require subframe disassembly. The remaining tasks can be accomplished with a day’s work on the floor, and cleaning the filters in situ will save vehicle owners approximately three hours. There remains the option for complete removal and remapping as well. I already work seven days a week, typically 10 to 12 hours on weekdays and 8 hours on Saturday and Sunday.

Your situation will improve—progressing positively, with additional minis to be preserved!

In January, I executed a ten-year lease for my own mini specialist, to be named Mini Mike's Mini Specialist. Last week, I submitted my resignation at work, which was met with disapproval; however, I maintained a cordial demeanour and was offered incentives to remain. Nonetheless, I prefer to dedicate myself to working seventy hours a week for my own venture.

I greatly appreciate it. Your expertise is consistently valued in this forum. You ought to possess your own part.

I utilise Yeo and Smith's machine shop in Plymouth, where an 81-year-old craftsman expertly grinds cranks. His ingenuity has greatly benefited me over the years. I also procure Kings bearings, which he sources in the appropriate sizes, along with rings. I utilise FAI and head bolts. FAI head gasket and FAI timing chain complete kit, including the oil pump chain kit, are excellent quality at reasonable prices. I utilise either Febi, FAI, or genuine oil pumps. Best of luck, as the initial attempt is usually challenging.

Thank you for your response. I anticipated that you would. I recognised that the codes were unrelated, yet I felt compelled to disclose them. It appears that I will be undertaking one of your rebuilds, which I find rather agreeable, to be candid. Any recommendations regarding which components to get would be much valued. This mini is too valuable to damage, and my objective is to maintain these minis in operational condition. It has only completed 80,000 kilometres.

The oil pressure light is unrelated to those codes, in my opinion. It is necessary to utilise a wet oil pressure gauge to ascertain the real-time pressure. It is common for an engine to exhibit oil pressure when cold, but as it warms up, the pressure may drop to zero, triggering the warning light. Likely causes include significant wear in the cylinder head where the camshafts are located, any grooves indicating irreparable damage, and potential crankshaft damage. To assess this, remove the sump and inspect the bottom surface; any grey colouration suggests that the crankshaft is compromised.

Greetings, everyone. I purchased a Cooper S with this defect. The apparent pressure sensor has been installed by a garage, suggesting it is an authentic sensor. Nevertheless, the light illuminates. No fault codes are associated with the issue; only the footwell module requires reprogramming. The battery was completely depleted. It initiates on the first attempt and operates well at idle. The light activates once the engine has reached optimal temperature. My inquiry is regarding the initial steps for inspection and replacement. ??? Thank you in advance.

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The vacuum pump operates the locks and massage seats, while the hydraulic pump controls the roof and trunk.

The SL63 AMG is stored for winter; nonetheless, I recall from the handbook that the roof and windows may deactivate in freezing conditions to prevent seal damage. Or did I merely fabricate that in my mind?

I reconstructed and evaluated the pump approximately 12 months ago and encased it in plastic to ensure its dryness, so I anticipate it will be satisfactory. I am awaiting a slight improvement in the weather before commencing the disassembly, as it is quite cold in the North. I have observed that detaching the trim panels on the gearbox tunnel provides access to a mechanism for unlocking the locker lid. Is this accurate? I have detached the trim panel from the front of the locker; nevertheless, access is very limited. If the removal of the gearbox tunnel trim panel is indeed feasible, I will likely pursue that option. The vario roof is also inoperative, which I believe relies on a separate pump located atop the PSE pump. It appears unusual that both pumps have ceased functioning simultaneously, prompting me to consider a fuse or relay issue.

The fuse is located behind the driver's seat. The pump is likely irreparable. £1,000 for a new one. They typically become moist due to water intrusion in the trunk.

The varioroof has been inspected and is non-functional. The issue may be linked to the pump in the trunk. Is this fused, or is there a relay attached with it? If possible, please include the fuse/relay number and its position.