DenishP4

Best front or rear is only significant when grip is at its maximum; otherwise, it is irrelevant. Speed or the road surface (wet, slippery, etc.) might be the cause of the grip limit. In order to handle steering inputs as well as the centrifugal force produced by the vehicle's lateral acceleration, the front tires endure a greater amount of lateral force than the rear ones. FWDs are often designed to understeer, which is corrected by increased steering inputs, which is a more natural response for novice or inexperienced drivers. This situation is limited by the front axle's best tires. In order to adjust for rear wheel slip, the opposite lock must be used; otherwise, the back of the automobile risked passing the front. Up until the tread was decreased to around 3mm, according to RoSPA research from 2005 (there may be more current data), there was only a little decline in braking performance. 1.6mm is the minimum. Conclusion: Unless the tyre is already very worn, grip is not really important.

Look at the crank's bottom pulley to see that this is not the case. By adjusting this sensor, you may enjoy super unleaded's advantages. The only thing I've done to mine is make the power curve a little bit smoother and increase the sport's speed from 6k to 7k. There has been no change in MPG. Mazda uses this method to adapt to the different fuel standards in each nation. While those on the American site seem to cluster towards the top, I discovered my profile closer to the middle.

There's a lot to know about this, and if it's not an MPS, there's no need to run it on super. The knock sensor and ECU are set up to run 98ron like an mps.

Yip I agree with misar and the salesman. Both of my Mazdas, a 2009 and a 2013, have had problems with fogging up, especially when it is very wet outside. I just got a moisture-absorbing bag at Halfrauds for £10, and it seems to work great. You just put it on the dashboard overnight, and the windows are clear in the morning.