NevoBMW320i

Greetings, everyone. I have installed a new thrust bushing to eliminate a persistent banging noise from the steering rack while traversing tiny bumps, speed humps, and uneven terrain. The vehicle performs really well on standard roads and at typical speeds; it is a delightful automobile. Following the replacement of the bushing, the banging seems to have intensified. It may just my imagination, but it has not improved, to put it succinctly. This occurred in a non-BMW service facility. I brought it to an authorised BMW repair facility, since they had availability, and they informed me that BMW does not provide a repair kit for the thrust bushing, which would likely need a new rack from BMW. Is this accurate? Has anybody substituted the thrust bushing on the F15 steering rack, and is there a corresponding BMW part for this component? I have heard that adjusting the tension is necessary to eliminate the banging while maintaining the smoothness and centring of the steering wheel. Any assistance would be much appreciated. Thank you.

Popcorn MDMH757 is abundantly available here.

I saw that the distribution panel is designed to accommodate that bolt, indicating you likely own cables with plugs for connection. Remove the battery and restart the device, ensuring to inspect for any cords located behind it first.

I have seen a similar item, but I am certain it had an additional cable attached to the bolt-type stud shown in your first image. Did you secure it out of the way, since it is quite cramped in that space?

I also produce a pronounced low resonance sound, akin to a brrr brrr noise. It is imperceptible below 60 km/h, but becomes distinctly audible at around 100-105 km/h. It has a same vibration/rhythm.

With 31,000 miles? I will verify that.

Indeed, I transitioned from my previous 520d to the current 520d, which has 31,000 miles on it. And you believe that everything will improve. However, I was profoundly disillusioned. I proceeded towards the highway and saw that the automobile exhibited instability between 70 km/h and 120 km/h, accompanied by a persistent hum (a “brrrr” sound) that happens in a steady rhythm, significantly diminishing the driving experience. Account of the subject matter: It produces a sound like "brrrr...brrrr...brrrr." A negligible gap appears between each "brrrr"/hum. The music does not accelerate with increasing speed, seeming to adhere to a constant beat. At speeds beyond 120 km/h, my ability to see it diminishes significantly, and it appears to vanish, maybe due to the rushing wind. - The music remains consistent in rhythm, irrespective of acceleration or RPM. - The hum maintains a consistent beat at 80 or 110 km/h. - Operating the vehicle at speeds of 80-110 and disengaging the engine does not fix the issue. - Operating a vehicle at speeds of 80-110 mph while in neutral. The sound persists, and acceleration proves ineffective. - It seems somewhat detectable in the steering wheel, however not in the same cadence. - The noise seems to emanate from underneath the driver's side, towards the front (rather than the back). - The sound and sensation in my steering wheel are imperceptible below 60 km/h and over 120 km/h. - Not discernible when stationary, even during engine revving. At speeds over 130 km/h, wind noise predominates. At speeds below 60 km/h, I cannot perceive or hear it. - Replaced the four wheels and tires. No enhancement. It is entirely undermining the tranquil driving experience at speeds between 75-115 km/h. Do you possess any insight, gentlemen?

I am aware of an E46 330d coupe with over 340,000 km, which is rising annually. Clearly, he has invested a considerable amount of money in it over the years. My E46 320d had 246,000 km and showed no signs of cessation except from the corrosion.

Hello, I am considering the vehicle mentioned in the headline. I had an E46 for a decade until it succumbed to corrosion, and I am now seeking my next car. My primary inquiry is if the six-speed automatic gearbox is dependable and free of issues. When is it recommended to replace the oil and filter? Aside from that, does the M57 engine maintain the dependability of the E46 model? What other prevalent issues should be considered during pre-purchase inspections? such as the rear subframe or damper pulley, among others. Thank you!

I own a personal container of rim-sealant that I keep on hand in the event that I need to have tires installed. One of my strong dislikes is tires that slowly lose air.

Did your tires experience a decrease in pressure prior to being replaced with new ones? There may be a leakage occurring at the rims.

As already said. Valves typically have a long lifespan, but the presence of old soapy water might indicate a leak.

I would recommend adding new gasoline to the vehicle after it has been lying idle for three years, particularly if it contains E10.

After thoroughly examining the topic, it seems that a potential problem might be the deteriorating condition of both my alternator and voltage regulator. Another module is the IBS module. Both scenarios would result in electrical complications that the automobile would not like - what are your thoughts?

Although I did not precisely test those features, the central locking, interior door lighting, and alarm systems all operated correctly.

I was expecting to take a more aggressive approach rather than passively waiting for the next disappointment.It may have a latency of up to one year

Approximately one year ago, the automobile failed me. Upon pressing the start button, there was no response or action. We contacted the breakdown service, and upon their arrival, the technician requested me to showcase the issue - at this point, the automobile unexpectedly resumed functioning. After recharging the battery, I proceeded on. There were no indicators or signals of caution. Yesterday, I had the same problem where there were no warning signs, just the typical start-up process followed by silence while pressing the start button. On this occasion, I patiently waited for just 30 minutes, and to my delight, the engine started and the radio began playing. Typically, when my battery is low, the audio becomes muted. She has been functioning properly since, and as a precautionary measure, I have connected the battery charger. I connected the OBD scanner and it detected 2 problems. The A0B3 CAS is experiencing a failure in the Starter Motor Terminal 50 and the LM voltage. I find this situation unsettling and I may draw certain inferences, since this is not a function that I want for my BMW, considering that I use it on a regular basis. 1) The possible cause might be the battery, however it was installed in January 2022, so it is not considered old. 2) Mechanically, there are no issues. The starting motor functions properly and the vehicle starts without any problems, as it has done during its whole lifespan, including today, save for these two separate occurrences. 3) Fuses must be undamaged due to point 2 Therefore, I am faced with the possibility that either the battery is the issue or there is some type of sporadic malfunction in the CAS system. I would appreciate suggestions about the next steps to take in order to isolate this problem. Thank you in advance

To get the most accurate information, it is recommended to connect an ammeter in series with the battery. This will provide you with information on current events and their respective timings. The problem may occur sporadically. If not, then you may have a defective alternator (which is intermittent) or a defective battery. There are few additional options available.

It is necessary to verify whether the electrical systems of your automobile enter a state of 'sleep mode' within a time frame of 10 to 15 minutes after the car is locked. You may own an object that consistently consumes energy. Occasionally, it is features such as power seats that are responsible. Another potential issue might be the alarm system. Typically, the internal rechargeable battery tends to fail after a few years, causing it to use more power than necessary. Identifying the exact reason might be a tedious process that involves removing fuses and using an ammeter to monitor the battery depletion. The ammeter should be connected in series with either the positive or negative battery connection. If the auto systems experience a shutdown, the power drain should be below 30mA. If the power drain remains excessive, begin removing fuses until you identify the problematic circuit.

The one shared by the original poster (OP) is manufactured by the Topgear brand. I own their whole exhaust system, extending from the downpipe to the rear, and it exhibits commendable quality. The automobile has had it installed for a duration of three years without any grievances. The item was fitted at the factory and the stainless steel material remains in pristine condition. Regarding the sound, it significantly enhances the exhaust note and produces a deep and resonant sound when the valves are open. Without being too boisterous. Regrettably, the price has significantly increased, since I originally spent about £2050 (~$2500 at the time) for the whole system.

Will the state alter or disappear if you slightly lower the windows individually? It is worth attempting anything.

Which tyres are currently installed on the vehicle?

The experience must have been quite dreadful until it eventually ceased.

The grinding noise is caused by the detachment of one of the shafts from the differential, resulting in a loss of drive.