NevoBMW320i

I have included an image; the brand is BBR Automotive.

I purchased a new one, still the issue persists. I am considering purchasing an additional unit in the unlikely event that the one I acquired is defective.

Indeed, I have seen that the cams rotate when I engage the engine.

Hello everyone, I have been a long-time reader, but this is my first post. I just acquired a non-operational 2004 X3 2.0d equipped with the M47 engine, and I am experiencing fuelling problems. I first observed the absence of an injector pulse and was then informed that injector pulsing requires rail pressure. I then used INPA to verify the pressure, which increased to 400 while cranking. I unplugged one of the injectors and reconnected it inverted to see whether it sprays, but there was no output. I then loosened one of the gasoline lines to see whether it would relieve pressure; however, it only dribbled out. I subsequently examined the fuel supply from the low-pressure fuel pump to the rail and high-pressure fuel pump, confirming that both the rail and high-pressure fuel pump are receiving an ample fuel supply. I then examined the fuel pressure regulator located behind the high-pressure fuel pump and did not see a click; nonetheless, it was receiving 9 volts with the ignition activated. I disconnected it and supplied power straight, resulting in a click. I ultimately ruptured the line connecting the high-pressure fuel pump to the rail and saw that no gasoline was emerging. The only issues in the vehicle are the glow control unit and the camshaft position sensor, signals (3EC0, 3EC1). I replaced the sensor, but the error persisted; thus, I inspected the wiring, which is intact. I have been informed that a malfunctioning camshaft position sensor might inhibit the vehicle from starting; however, I have replaced the sensor and inspected the wiring, still the issue persists. I have been informed that a malfunctioning injector may be the culprit, since these injectors tell the ECU to terminate fuel delivery upon failure, resulting in a lack of injector pulse (as stated by a representative from Bosch). I saw in many discussions that upgrading the ECU resolved this issue for others who encountered it. It is worth noting that the ECU was defective when I purchased the vehicle, but I had it repaired, and it successfully passed all bench tests. I believe the high-pressure fuel pump is the problem, albeit I am not a technician. Your assistance would be much appreciated.

Indeed, there is a faint banging sound emanating from the centre of the bonnet when I oscillate the steering wheel while standing outside the driver's door. I will attempt to identify the source of the banging by having someone crank the wheel while I am positioned underneath the vehicle. There is a little knocking sound when I jolt the steering wheel when it is switched off, albeit it is not particularly loud or significant. I will consider replacing those arms with BMW components to see whether they are the source of the banging sound. Thank you once again for your assistance.

Thank you for your prompt reply on this matter. I may repurchase the three-pronged bolt tool, adjust the bush, and repeatedly drive and modify it to see whether it yields any improvement. Regrettably, I cannot afford a new rack. I examined the position of the bushing on the rack, and although it is somewhat accessible under the vehicle, it is insufficient for applying enough torque. That is why I entrusted it to a garage for completion. Is there a manual available for obtaining enough access to the rack from under the vehicle, enabling me to attempt tightening the bolt/thrust bush prior to commencing savings for a new rack? This presumes that the bushing is responsible for the banging noise over minor irregularities. The MOT was exemplary, and a recent inspection by a BMW expert revealed no irregularities, except from a negligible amount of play in the 'braking arms,' whatever that entails. Thank you.

Greetings, everyone. I have installed a new thrust bushing to eliminate a persistent banging noise from the steering rack while traversing tiny bumps, speed humps, and uneven terrain. The vehicle performs really well on standard roads and at typical speeds; it is a delightful automobile. Following the replacement of the bushing, the banging seems to have intensified. It may just my imagination, but it has not improved, to put it succinctly. This occurred in a non-BMW service facility. I brought it to an authorised BMW repair facility, since they had availability, and they informed me that BMW does not provide a repair kit for the thrust bushing, which would likely need a new rack from BMW. Is this accurate? Has anybody substituted the thrust bushing on the F15 steering rack, and is there a corresponding BMW part for this component? I have heard that adjusting the tension is necessary to eliminate the banging while maintaining the smoothness and centring of the steering wheel. Any assistance would be much appreciated. Thank you.

Popcorn MDMH757 is abundantly available here.

I saw that the distribution panel is designed to accommodate that bolt, indicating you likely own cables with plugs for connection. Remove the battery and restart the device, ensuring to inspect for any cords located behind it first.

I have seen a similar item, but I am certain it had an additional cable attached to the bolt-type stud shown in your first image. Did you secure it out of the way, since it is quite cramped in that space?

I also produce a pronounced low resonance sound, akin to a brrr brrr noise. It is imperceptible below 60 km/h, but becomes distinctly audible at around 100-105 km/h. It has a same vibration/rhythm.

With 31,000 miles? I will verify that.

Indeed, I transitioned from my previous 520d to the current 520d, which has 31,000 miles on it. And you believe that everything will improve. However, I was profoundly disillusioned. I proceeded towards the highway and saw that the automobile exhibited instability between 70 km/h and 120 km/h, accompanied by a persistent hum (a “brrrr” sound) that happens in a steady rhythm, significantly diminishing the driving experience. Account of the subject matter: It produces a sound like "brrrr...brrrr...brrrr." A negligible gap appears between each "brrrr"/hum. The music does not accelerate with increasing speed, seeming to adhere to a constant beat. At speeds beyond 120 km/h, my ability to see it diminishes significantly, and it appears to vanish, maybe due to the rushing wind. - The music remains consistent in rhythm, irrespective of acceleration or RPM. - The hum maintains a consistent beat at 80 or 110 km/h. - Operating the vehicle at speeds of 80-110 and disengaging the engine does not fix the issue. - Operating a vehicle at speeds of 80-110 mph while in neutral. The sound persists, and acceleration proves ineffective. - It seems somewhat detectable in the steering wheel, however not in the same cadence. - The noise seems to emanate from underneath the driver's side, towards the front (rather than the back). - The sound and sensation in my steering wheel are imperceptible below 60 km/h and over 120 km/h. - Not discernible when stationary, even during engine revving. At speeds over 130 km/h, wind noise predominates. At speeds below 60 km/h, I cannot perceive or hear it. - Replaced the four wheels and tires. No enhancement. It is entirely undermining the tranquil driving experience at speeds between 75-115 km/h. Do you possess any insight, gentlemen?

I am aware of an E46 330d coupe with over 340,000 km, which is rising annually. Clearly, he has invested a considerable amount of money in it over the years. My E46 320d had 246,000 km and showed no signs of cessation except from the corrosion.

Hello, I am considering the vehicle mentioned in the headline. I had an E46 for a decade until it succumbed to corrosion, and I am now seeking my next car. My primary inquiry is if the six-speed automatic gearbox is dependable and free of issues. When is it recommended to replace the oil and filter? Aside from that, does the M57 engine maintain the dependability of the E46 model? What other prevalent issues should be considered during pre-purchase inspections? such as the rear subframe or damper pulley, among others. Thank you!

I own a personal container of rim-sealant that I keep on hand in the event that I need to have tires installed. One of my strong dislikes is tires that slowly lose air.

Did your tires experience a decrease in pressure prior to being replaced with new ones? There may be a leakage occurring at the rims.

As already said. Valves typically have a long lifespan, but the presence of old soapy water might indicate a leak.

I would recommend adding new gasoline to the vehicle after it has been lying idle for three years, particularly if it contains E10.

After thoroughly examining the topic, it seems that a potential problem might be the deteriorating condition of both my alternator and voltage regulator. Another module is the IBS module. Both scenarios would result in electrical complications that the automobile would not like - what are your thoughts?

Although I did not precisely test those features, the central locking, interior door lighting, and alarm systems all operated correctly.

I was expecting to take a more aggressive approach rather than passively waiting for the next disappointment.It may have a latency of up to one year

Approximately one year ago, the automobile failed me. Upon pressing the start button, there was no response or action. We contacted the breakdown service, and upon their arrival, the technician requested me to showcase the issue - at this point, the automobile unexpectedly resumed functioning. After recharging the battery, I proceeded on. There were no indicators or signals of caution. Yesterday, I had the same problem where there were no warning signs, just the typical start-up process followed by silence while pressing the start button. On this occasion, I patiently waited for just 30 minutes, and to my delight, the engine started and the radio began playing. Typically, when my battery is low, the audio becomes muted. She has been functioning properly since, and as a precautionary measure, I have connected the battery charger. I connected the OBD scanner and it detected 2 problems. The A0B3 CAS is experiencing a failure in the Starter Motor Terminal 50 and the LM voltage. I find this situation unsettling and I may draw certain inferences, since this is not a function that I want for my BMW, considering that I use it on a regular basis. 1) The possible cause might be the battery, however it was installed in January 2022, so it is not considered old. 2) Mechanically, there are no issues. The starting motor functions properly and the vehicle starts without any problems, as it has done during its whole lifespan, including today, save for these two separate occurrences. 3) Fuses must be undamaged due to point 2 Therefore, I am faced with the possibility that either the battery is the issue or there is some type of sporadic malfunction in the CAS system. I would appreciate suggestions about the next steps to take in order to isolate this problem. Thank you in advance

To get the most accurate information, it is recommended to connect an ammeter in series with the battery. This will provide you with information on current events and their respective timings. The problem may occur sporadically. If not, then you may have a defective alternator (which is intermittent) or a defective battery. There are few additional options available.

It is necessary to verify whether the electrical systems of your automobile enter a state of 'sleep mode' within a time frame of 10 to 15 minutes after the car is locked. You may own an object that consistently consumes energy. Occasionally, it is features such as power seats that are responsible. Another potential issue might be the alarm system. Typically, the internal rechargeable battery tends to fail after a few years, causing it to use more power than necessary. Identifying the exact reason might be a tedious process that involves removing fuses and using an ammeter to monitor the battery depletion. The ammeter should be connected in series with either the positive or negative battery connection. If the auto systems experience a shutdown, the power drain should be below 30mA. If the power drain remains excessive, begin removing fuses until you identify the problematic circuit.