NevoBMW320i

He provided them with a favourable deal...I just had my automobile repaired to get a blacked-out appearance.

Thank you for the information, everyone. Please refer to the text below.The factory Audi Setup seems to exceed the 5% threshold, but the generally used combination exceeds 6.24%. It is possible that there is an error margin, considering the superior knowledge of Audi engineers compared to mine.I will proceed with my current configuration and inform all of you about the outcome.My vehicle, a 2017 Base model, will not be lowered.Please verify the figures, although I believe they are accurate. The front tyres have a size of 245/30/20, while the rear tyres have a size of 305/30/20. These tyre sizes are the ones originally installed by Audi. The difference in diameter between the front and rear tyres is 5.50%. The front tyres have a size of 245/35/20, while the rear tyres have a size of 305/30/21. The difference in diameter between the front and rear tyres is 5.43%. The front tyres have a size of 255/35/20, while the rear tyres have a size of 305/30/21. The difference in diameter between the front and rear tyres is 4.36%. The front tyres have a size of 255/35/20, while the rear tyres have a size of 315/30/21. The difference in diameter between the front and rear tyres is 5.23%. The front tyres have a size of 245/30/20, while the rear tyres have a size of 325/30/21. Difference in diameter: 11.21% The front tyres have a size of 245/35/20, while the rear tyres have a size of 325/30/21. The difference in diameter between the front and rear tyres is 7.20%. The front tyres have a size of 255/35/20, while the rear tyres have a size of 325/30/21. I have decided to choose the following option: the difference in diameter is 6.10%. The front tyres have a size of 245/30/20, while the rear tyres have a size of 325/25/21. This combination is often used. Difference in diameter: 6.24%

Greetings, everyone...I bought the Signature Forged SV310s in 20/21 from Fasthawk on this forum.I want to have all of them repainted in Gloss Black and install red fasteners on the back. Specifications: 20x9 with an offset of ET32. The dimensions of the object are 21 inches in width, 12 inches in height, and have an offset of 32 millimetres. I have a question... 1) I have heard that if I raise the size of the tyre sidewall uniformly, I should anticipate the failure of the rear differential bearing.Expanding the tyre size to 245/35/20 and either 305 or 325/30/21...In my previous 2015 R8, I successfully enlarged the dimensions of the walls on my 20" ADV1 wheels without encountering any problems. However, my luck took a turn for the worst when I was struck by a drunk motorist who ran a red light while travelling at a speed of 35 miles per hour.What are your opinions or reflections on this matter?I prefer the use of larger sidewalls to reduce the potential hazards posed by the poor road conditions in Houston and to limit the amount of noise that enters the cabin of the vehicle. All feedback is highly valued and welcomed.

As the adage goes, whether it comes to sensors, such as BMW sensors or branded aftermarket ones like Bosch, buying cheap will result in having to purchase again in the future.

Amazon offers a wide range of "stick on" Head-Up Displays (HUDs). They seem to have varied evaluations yet are priced at merely a few pounds. It may be advantageous to examine.

Would flats that are not run be compatible with the same rim? May I get same dimensions?

I am seeking assistance from a someone with expertise. I am aware that some 20-inch tyres provide enhanced protection for the rims, since they are more recessed and projecting, resulting in less damage to the rims. I have seen similar rim designs on other 20-inch tyres. I lack knowledge on the many metrics and the specific size required to do this. Instead of purchasing new rims, I prefer to get standard tyres that are compatible with my existing rims, namely those with a bigger wall diameter compared to the present rims (275/40 R20 for the front and 315/35 R20 for the rear). Do you have any suggestions for tyres (except flat tyres) that might do this? If the rims are not run flats, would it be necessary to use other rims?

The 1920s seem to be rather appealing. Is it possible to retain such tyres, which would also be more cost-effective, instead of opting for tyres with a thicker wall thickness that provide more rim protection?

Greetings, I own a 2010 x5 E70 diesel engine with 20-inch wheels. It is acknowledged that the vehicle has the capacity to take tyres of varying sizes. I need guidance on the optimal options to acquire, given my residence in a region characterised by poor topography and concrete roadways that often exhibit fissures and descend several inches to the ground (resulting in severe scraping, which is inevitable). Presently, my car is equipped with 275/40 R20 tyres on the front and 315/35 R20 tyres on the rear. However, the vehicle also utilises 275/45 R20 tyres on the front and 305/40 R20 tyres on the rear. I presume that the latter would be more suitable for my needs since it has a wider diameter and a higher profile. Are these tyres interchangeable, since I also own a spare tyre with the specifications 275/45 R20? Uncertain on the course of action, I would really value any guidance. If I were to replace one of the front tyres with the spare tyre I have (275/45 R20) or if I were to have two 275/45 R20 tyres in the front (which I presume correspond to the other rear sizes) while leaving the 315/35 R20 tyre on the back, it is likely that the drivetrain would experience strain. If I were to get tyres with rims that are more internally positioned and safeguarded, I have observed this feature on other automobiles. Thank you and best regards, PS: Additionally, I have contemplated the possibility of replacing the run-flat tyres. Any suggestions in this regard would be appreciated, although it may need the purchase of new rims.

I recently ventured out into the darkness to retrieve my Autel scanner, hoping that I had saved the codes. Unfortunately, this was not the case. I find it frustrating because the code seems familiar, but when researching it, I see that it is not what I first thought. I informed my vehicle that it had a new Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF), then proceeded to drive on the divided highway while monitoring the exhaust temperatures and observing the regeneration process. I believe I also made an additional request for regeneration around one week later as a precautionary step. Has been consistently effective since May 23rd.

Was the automobile informed about the installation of a new DPF? The number 480 seems familiar, but I am uncertain. It may be a code that indicates the need for a replacement Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) after a certain period of time. Indeed, I had the item and informed the vehicle of its presence, prompting the vehicle to resume the regeneration process. Subsequently, no issues were encountered.

I continue to drive it throughout the whole year. However, I have not embarked on any extended journeys recently.Given the current pace of 4000 miles per year, it will take me a considerable amount of time to reach 100,000 miles.

It is desirable that you have access to a reputable independent business. Considering your emphasis on future proofing, I assume you have purchased a car that seems to be of high quality.However, I would recommend not listening to the song, particularly considering your current location... Those of us who now drive automobiles that are 10 or more years old likely performed preventive maintenance but may have neglected the tuning process. The results may differ depending on individual circumstances.... Wishing you success with your automobile...

I agree with your list, however I have not yet taken the effort to remove the back cover. The 2013 X6M has been well cared for, with just 124,000 kilometres (or 770,000 miles) driven. The vehicle still has its original coil packs and is on its second set of spark plugs. Additionally, the oil has been changed every 6,000 miles. Unmonitored... My partner is astonished that I have managed to retain it for such a lengthy period of time.

I have not replaced the thermostats yet. I am a community nurse and understand the drawbacks of diesel cars, but I have a preference for them. Thank you for your assistance.

After two applications of DPF cleaner and cleaning it out with a pressure washer, would it be advisable to remove the DPF altogether? My previous Audi had a diesel particulate filter (dpf) issue that could be resolved by a regeneration process. However, the regeneration process did not work for my BMW, and I suspect a possible blockage as the performance is fine until 3000 revs. I am concerned about having to replace the turbo if the issue is not related to it. Thank you for your responses.

I need assistance with my BMW 118d M Sport 2011. Initially, the DPF light was on and blocked, attempted regeneration failed. Subsequently, the engine management light illuminated, accompanied by excessive black soot under the bonnet on the driver's side. Error codes indicated issues with two glow plugs. The DPF has been manually cleared, resulting in increased power. However, the engine management light persists, and the car accelerates to around 3000 revs before experiencing pullback and emitting significant white smoke. I have tried the glow plugs, the actuator, and removed the exhaust, but the issue persists. Could this be related to the intercooler or a problem with the turbo? EGFR has also been examined. Any assistance would be welcomed as I am eager to get my son back.

It was really beneficial, thank you! One created a video and later discovered an error. Here is the link: https://youtu.be/20-ZVYTyVGY We will address it together soon 🙂

I will experiment with it. Thank you.

I am seeking assistance with my request and hope someone can aid me. Recently, I was given permission to get my ideal automobile, a 540d Luxury Line. I am still dazzled with the automobile... Regrettably, when I go over little bumps with the front left wheel, it creates a noise that sounds like running. To hear it, you must open the window glass and ensure complete silence, making it preferable to listen to at night. I recorded a video with clear audio. I hope it is insignificant. Thank you beforehand. Warm regards

In the event that the transfer case is intact but lacks shafts, it is possible that the vehicle may not detect any anomalies warranting the activation of warning indicators. The absence of shafts would not result in a failure to meet the Ministry of Transport (MOT) standards. In the presence of an undertray, the differential without shafts would also be adequately protected. If I were in the same situation, I would choose to return the automobile, since its removal was likely justified. Introducing other substitutes may potentially lead to more complications.

There seems to be an anomaly if the shafts have been extracted. It is worth considering if the front prop connecting the transfer case to the differential is also absent.

The component in question is the front differential, which is expected to include a drive shaft on both sides.

It seems that I am experiencing a series of unfortunate events, maybe due to a combination of the key and my inherent force field, which may be generating a cosmic ambiance. 🫠

It is likely that many individuals have experienced the situation when they enter or exit a store via security detector gates, only to have the alarm sound, despite not having engaged in any illicit activities. In the majority of instances, personnel tend to disregard it as a spurious alert due to its prevalence. Throughout the course of my experiences, I have had several remote keys, nevertheless none have shown the functionality that I am now seeing with my BMW key. In almost all cases, the act of passing through the security gate results in the activation of the alarm system. Is there any distinctive characteristic of BMW keys that might potentially give rise to this phenomenon? I am certain that my experience is not unique. I am inquiring...